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Power brake booster

boneheadsGeTeX

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What I need to know is can I use the same power brake booster with drum and disc. ? The reAson I ask is , started do under dash harness gauges after I got all that out of dash , seen where brake fuild had rusted fire wall. So now I'm Iv pulled steering colum And master the car has drum no power brakes. Next year I plan on doing disc brake ect. But can I install a power booster now that will work with drum. Then next year use with disc ?
 
From what I have READ and come to understand the booster and mc setups were different. I also think the proportioning valves were different (drum has residual pressure valve if I remember right or something to that effect). I know for sure the masters use different size bores and from what I understand the boosters were different also.
 
Darn. Was hoping I could. Don't realy want to put old master back. But I'm in the mid of this dash rebuild I do anuff jumping around and one thing leads to a nother.
 
There was a recent thread in the past month Ill try to find it. Really well documented and there is fact in there about the power boosters being different
 
There was a recent thread in the past month Ill try to find it. Really well documented and there is fact in there about the power boosters being different

The Ramman says otherwise: [video=youtube;PCQ8iI_7Eo0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=UUlgGAxkZ5Bo_HF-6dxEBPFg&v=PCQ8iI_7Eo0&feature=player_detailpage[/video]
 
Pre-'71, The boosters are different between drum and Disc. One being a dual diaphragm (disc) and the other a single diaphragm (drum). That being said, the power assist to pedal travel ratio is different between the two. Don't know the year of your car, but later 60's to about 1970 used a Bendix Booster for disc cars. They used a Midland booster for drum/drum cars. '71 on used a single diaphram "pancake" booster" for all. You should use the appropriate booster.

The Master cylinders are also different between disc and drum cars as well. Disc usually has a larger reservoir in the master than drum. Also, full on drum brakes will have residual valves in both the front and back reservoir ports (drum residual valves will not work on Disc's). You should use the appropriate booster.

Outside the booster/master, drum brake only cars have distribution valve/blocks. Disc brake cars have proportioning valves. A distribution valve just distributes brake fluid to the different circuits. A proportioning valve does the same, but it also limits the amount of pressure/fluid volume to circuits. In a disc/drum car, it would be limiting pressure to the drums. Again, you should use the appropriate valve.

Swaying off course from any of these when converting can adversely effect the vehicles braking performance, and quite possibly in a very drastic and dangerous manner. If you're converting to disc, do your research, don't cut corners, put together a well thought out & correct system, and you'll have a braking system that makes you wonder how in the heck you ever put up with drum's to begin with.

Good Luck
 
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What he said
Pre-'71, The boosters are different between drum and Disc. One being a dual diaphragm (disc) and the other a single diaphragm (drum). That being said, the power assist to pedal travel ratio is different between the two. Don't know the year of your car, but later 60's to about 1970 used a Bendix Booster for disc cars. They used a Midland booster for drum/drum cars. '71 on used a single diaphram "pancake" booster" for all. You should use the appropriate booster.

The Master cylinders are also different between disc and drum cars as well. Disc usually has a larger reservoir in the master than drum. Also, full on drum brakes will have residual valves in both the front and back reservoir ports (drum residual valves will not work on Disc's). You should use the appropriate booster.

Outside the booster/master, drum brake only cars have distribution valve/blocks. Disc brake cars have proportioning valves. A distribution valve just distributes brake fluid to the different circuits. A proportioning valve does the same, but it also limits the amount of pressure/fluid volume to circuits. In a disc/drum car, it would be limiting pressure to the drums. Again, you should use the appropriate valve.

Swaying off course from any of these when converting can adversely effect the vehicles braking performance, and quite possibly in a very drastic and dangerous manner. If you're converting to disc, do your research, don't cut corners, put together a well thought out & correct system, and you'll have a braking system that makes you wonder how in the heck you ever put up with drum's to begin with.

Good Luck
 
Unless I am misunderstanding Wayne in the Ramman video, he is wrong this time. That's a first.
 
Unless I am misunderstanding Wayne in the Ramman video, he is wrong this time. That's a first.

Just watched the vid you posted themechanic (thanks for posting). The ramman knows his stuff! Spoke with Wayne a couple times when trying to research and piece together the parts for the drum/disc setup I put in my bird. Real helpful guy. Anyways, where in his vid are you catching a different drift?
 
I took it that the hemi booster wAs used on all disc and drum power cars ? Mine a 70 gtx. That's hemi booster sounds like the way to go. I'm not no where close to working on front end But I am all over where booster goes harness gauges and stressing colum
 
You'd be referring to the "Bendix" booster GeTeX, and yes you are correct, they'd be used on all the cars with disc brakes up front. The Hemi car's had a large bracket on the backside of the bendix booster that extended the booster out from the firewall about 3", to clear the big honking hemi valve cover. There is a Hemi specific master cylinder for the disc set-up. It has the ports on the right side of the MC. Again, big honking Hemi valve cover in the way. I run the Bendix booster in my bird, and by far it's the most powerful, smooth booster I've had in an older car. Good news is it's pretty easy to find the 2nd generation Bendix style booster's and Master cylinder's these days. If you convert to disc, you'll never settle for drums again.
 
The FPM shows the same Midland Ross booster for both drum and disc for 71-4 B-bodies. 66-69 disc used the Bendix and drums used the smaller Midland.
I know Wayne real good and supply him with original cores. He has spent years researching this and does know his stuff.
 
There is a little salesmanship going on too. Many of these boosters where available remanufactured. Unfortunately they were bought up as new installs with no cores turned in. So now, a remanufactured Bendix dual has a core charge of about $500 on top of the cost with very few left in inventory. Others have stepped up and made a new similar version. What is the use of your car? If a numbers match show car, you want to go original, or at least duplicate what an original would have. If it is not a daily driver or a road course racer, I am not sure you would feel or know the difference. So if the budget matters you want to go with the 71 up stuff which is cheaper and more available.

All the master cylinders are available via most manufacturers. I used the Centric which is a duplicate of the Tall disc version of the 70 with a 1 1/8 " Bore. I have an original Bendix booster on my disc car.

So you can pick your booster and add your power drum master cylinder now. Later when you convert to disc, you can change to a power disc M/C. They run about $40 new. IF you painted it black, you would be hard pressed to know it wasn't original without checking the cap closely, gasket tab, or pulling the M/C to look for casting #s.

That is why you see a lot of B bodies with A body boosters or E body boosters.

For a periodic show car for a middle aged man or women, I figure I just put the last set of rotors and brakes on my car. G
 
Just watched the vid you posted themechanic (thanks for posting). The ramman knows his stuff! Spoke with Wayne a couple times when trying to research and piece together the parts for the drum/disc setup I put in my bird. Real helpful guy. Anyways, where in his vid are you catching a different drift?

Right about 2 minute mark Wayne says cars with power drum brakes used the the double hump master cylinder with the Midland Ross single diaphragm booster and further on says the dual diaphragm Bendix booster was used with the disc brake master cylinder on the power disc brake cars. So, I guess he was right and I was just confused. :icon_eyes:
 
Right about 2 minute mark Wayne says cars with power drum brakes used the the double hump master cylinder with the Midland Ross single diaphragm booster and further on says the dual diaphragm Bendix booster was used with the disc brake master cylinder on the power disc brake cars. So, I guess he was right and I was just confused. :icon_eyes:

LOL! Hey man..........he's a good ol' boy from the backside of Texas......Don't think he's going to win any acclaimed awards from Stanford on his oral presentation skills. LOL Never the less, still real nice of the fella to take the time & effort to put the vid together for other people to learn. Seems like brake hardware, (outside of just at the wheels) are a one area of cars that are a bit of an Enigma to a lot of folks.
 
excuse me for changing the direction of this thread. My question is;....Is there any reason, besides the 'ole but it's not MOPAR! crowd, that a guy could not just go out to his local wrecking yard and get a complete power disc brake setup from a modern MOPAR car, or any car for that matter, and apply this to his restomod?
 
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