Inspection starts at $369 and goes up. Appraisal is $189.
Price Check: 1969 Charger R/T
- Thread starter Billccm
- Start date
Inspection starts at $369 and goes up. Appraisal is $189.
I don't know of any inspection that includes a compression test, but if you can recommend I'm in.
Mopars & Missiles
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 7:48 AM
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2010
- Messages
- 2,174
- Reaction score
- 3,739
- Location
- Northern Indiana
I noticed the trunk pan also. But check out the firewall, engine & front end wiring, crusty master cylinder, lack of voltage regulator, painted cam bolts, extra hole in firewall and paint flaking off the engine. That thing is a POS......
About the firewall,
It does appear to have a voltage regulator, but it is a '70 & up style, not the correct regulator for a '69. Can't tell if the alternator is a 2-wire field from the photo, but it looks like a "round back" which would be the single wire type. Not necessarily a bad thing if you are NOT concerned about factory correct (I usually am, at least to a certain extent). I think the "extra" hole in the firewall you are referring to is the hole with the rubber grommet for the Ramcharger cable that I mentioned previously. It is just to the right of the voltage regulator in the photo above. As for a ballast resistor, there is none but that is to be expected with the MSD setup shown. As our beloved RC has pointed out, the wiring looks to be "highly modified" which also brings up a lot of questions about the reliability of the electrical system. I wouldn't quite call it a POS, RC, but it certainly isn't up to the standards you and I normally use to describe a "Restoration". Some people use that term VERY loosely, and this seller is a good example of that.
Mopars & Missiles
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 7:48 AM
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2010
- Messages
- 2,174
- Reaction score
- 3,739
- Location
- Northern Indiana
Thank you for the compliment, but I'm sure not everyone would agree. I hope you know that I'm NOT trying to discourage you from the Super Bee or the Charger R/T for that matter, but just trying to point out some of the errors or defects that prospective buyers should be aware of prior to making a purchase. I hate to see someone all excited about their purchase, then find out about all the problems after their money is spent.
I need all the advice I can get. I can turn a wrench, but bodywork is well beyond my skills. As an engineer, electrical issues don't scare me, either.
My biggest concern is budgetary. I've had b body mopars before, but far from an expert. If I buy a car that blows the budget I basically have a garage relic that won't be enjoyed. That has been my point all along.
Keep the comments and opinions coming.
My biggest concern is budgetary. I've had b body mopars before, but far from an expert. If I buy a car that blows the budget I basically have a garage relic that won't be enjoyed. That has been my point all along.
Keep the comments and opinions coming.
These cars are nothing but money eaters and this is why you have to be diligent in your efforts to find one that needs as little work that you can perform. A real R/T, Super Bee, Road Runner & GTX will always be worth more than a base model and you will pay more for them; that's just a fact. Whatever budget you figure on, add 30%, but keep in mind that some cars can be bottomless pits. This aint the hobby if money is THE primary concern.
You mentioned that you are an engineer; if I may ask, what kind of trains do you drive?
The Rebel
Well-Known Member
I'm not aware either but a buddy of mine told me to get one done as well before purchasing a car. I'm new to buying a classic car but have done some work on cars back in the mid-80's (brakes, tuneups) so I'm pretty good with tools, it's all the diagnostics that I'm not up to speed on.
- Local time
- 7:48 AM
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2008
- Messages
- 23,548
- Reaction score
- 69,831
- Location
- South Jersey USA
if body work is beyond your skills, it is imperative that you at least know how to spot a clusterphuck, or have someone with you who does........ reconstructing a can of worms, and getting paint on it can run upwards of 30 - 50K in reality........ possibly more
Just received a text the charger sold for $37900. That's about 10grand more than I wanted to pay.
Looking at a 1968 coronet rt clone tomorrow. Thanks for all the advice and expertise.
Looking at a 1968 coronet rt clone tomorrow. Thanks for all the advice and expertise.
Unfortunately, 27 large is not going to get you much in the way of a Charger these days. You'll either get a good restoration project a hacked together car that was a rot box or a beat, but running #3 car
Last edited:
I would not be surprised if we don't see this car at Barrett Jackson in two years selling for $125grand. The buyer was from Scottsdale, and I think he'll put some money into it and place it at auction.
Okay, here is what I found out about the Yellow 68 Coronet. VIN decodes original 318. Car had a vinyl top, and the body work looks well done. Rear backlite has been out and the repairs are very nice. Drivers side quarter is new. Passenger side door has two bubbles down low. Pulled the back seat out-no rust. Lifted the drivers side carpet-no rust. Underbody looks original, solid, and no accident damage I can find. The hood has some sort of bondo mounted scoop thats cracked everywhere, but the original hood is nice otherwise.
Headers don't fit and are beat up.
Has 'orange box' mopar electronic ignition spray painted black. Linkage from throttle to trans kickdown is a rigged up nightmare. New Demon 4 barrel carb and the car starts and runs great.
Someone put Volare/Aspen front disc brakes on the car-no power.
The electric fuel pump looks like it was installed by a drunk mechanic with one hand tied behind his back. Dash wiring has three miles of electrical tape everywhere and not much works. Heater core leaked and is disconnected. Front seats out of a old Dodge van and look awful. Exhaust falling off the car and no tailpipes.
As I mentioned previously, the seller converted to manual steering because he could not get the power steering box adjusted (always turned right).
Headliner looks pristine, all windows roll up and down.
Okay, this is the best $16,000 MOPAR I have found to date with a 440 727.
Can't get a firm price or WHEN I could ship it to Tucson. Please talk me out of this car.
Headers don't fit and are beat up.
Has 'orange box' mopar electronic ignition spray painted black. Linkage from throttle to trans kickdown is a rigged up nightmare. New Demon 4 barrel carb and the car starts and runs great.
Someone put Volare/Aspen front disc brakes on the car-no power.
The electric fuel pump looks like it was installed by a drunk mechanic with one hand tied behind his back. Dash wiring has three miles of electrical tape everywhere and not much works. Heater core leaked and is disconnected. Front seats out of a old Dodge van and look awful. Exhaust falling off the car and no tailpipes.
As I mentioned previously, the seller converted to manual steering because he could not get the power steering box adjusted (always turned right).
Headliner looks pristine, all windows roll up and down.
Okay, this is the best $16,000 MOPAR I have found to date with a 440 727.
Can't get a firm price or WHEN I could ship it to Tucson. Please talk me out of this car.
Last edited:
dla4567
Well-Known Member
I love these cars, one of my favorites. A well done Coronet R/T or Super Bee clone should be around $20,000 to $25,000. I think you would be further ahead to spend the extra cash and save yourself some headaches. On the other hand, I like cars like this one because I enjoy doing the work myself and making things the way I want them. (I don't make money on cars). Paint and body are most important to me. If the hood needs work and there is some rust coming through, that could be expensive.
Similar threads
