Progress report, Junkyard Dog

[Propwash]

Most impressive pace Matt!

Go Dog Go!

 

[68427vette]

its a 50/50 split, on peoples views on hanging rear 1/4's on whether or not to make the car a roller,

A.) so when you hang the 1/4's, the body is "set" on its wheels, with its normal weight / pressure on the chassis

verse

B.)leaving it on a jig/or rotisserie and installing the 1/4's..

thoughts?

the main thought is that when you install them on a jig/or rotisserie, and then load the chassis, with rear, and front and doors, and paint,, you may see cracks?? etc...

thoughts?

the high end shop in town, makes all their cars rollers, then install the 1/4's. then puts them back on the jig/or rotisserie, to finish anything else,

they also make them rollers to paint.(top side). same thoughts.

what do you guys think..

 

[Donny]

Well, there is the assumption that flex occurs resulting in cracks in paint etc. These are tough cars, weld 'em up correctly AFTER you screw 'em together to test fit etc, putting 'em on the ground as rollers, I'm doing mine, then making it a roller chassis.

 

[detmatt1]

its a 50/50 split, on peoples views on hanging rear 1/4's on whether or not to make the car a roller,

A.) so when you hang the 1/4's, the body is "set" on its wheels, with its normal weight / pressure on the chassis

verse

B.)leaving it on a jig/or rotisserie and installing the 1/4's..

thoughts?

the main thought is that when you install them on a jig/or rotisserie, and then load the chassis, with rear, and front and doors, and paint,, you may see cracks?? etc...

thoughts?

the high end shop in town, makes all their cars rollers, then install the 1/4's. then puts them back on the jig/or rotisserie, to finish anything else,

they also make them rollers to paint.(top side). same thoughts.

what do you guys think..

Here was my thinking when I started this project..
Build the jig and mount the car to it at the forward mount of the rear spring perchs' with the front of the car supported towards the rear of the front frame rails. The jig extends all the way to the rear of the car so that I was able to transfer reference points and take measurements from the body and chassis to the rear of the jig. Then I dismantled the car, prepped it for the doner rear section and installed the doner section the whole time checking it against all of my reference points and measurements and not welding it in until it was exactly where the original parts were and it did line up perfectly. Once the doner rear frame section was in I got out the builders laser and set out mapping the back half of the car and front for that matter, off of a centerline. Then I cut the rest of the quarters off and went to town fixing all of the other rust I had uncovered around the bottom of the back window structure, the cowl section and replacing the interior floorpans, the whole time checking my points and measurements that were transfered down to the jig. The way I see it, as long as none of my reference points have changed, I can completely assemble the body, outer sheet metal and all, prep it for paint and paint it on the jig without any of the driveline and suspension components in the way of the painter. Once painted I put it back on its fresh suspension and turn it back into a roller.
I do agree on not installing quarters on a car that is mounted to a rotisserie.

 

[68 Roadrunner]

Nice Matt. I remember when mine looked like that. Reflecting back at least I know it was done right as I lived it like you. Keep up the great work and I enjoy your progress posts.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Not sure yet, might try my hand with the lead free solder or just use a filler like All Metal (I think that is what it's called). What would you do?
I did get back to work on it yesterday but didn't take the camera. Got the doors hung!! Going back today for a few hours WITH the camera!

I fixed my rear window rust on my 69 RR and I used lead to fill in little imperfections. It worked great and I recommend you try it. I have no experience with the lead free stuff so can't comment on that but the 70/30 is fantastic. The trick is the alloy, which has a wide melt range so it's easy to keep in a plastic state and work with a wood paddle as required. First you want to tin the area you are working on then off you go.

You are doing some amazing work on that car!!!

 

[Superfreak]

I noticed you are on moparts and I noticed no postings of your project over there. You no likey?

 

[detmatt1]

I noticed you are on moparts and I noticed no postings of your project over there. You no likey?

It's not that I don't like it over there and I have recently updated the thread, but the format of this forum is FAR superior to Moparts. If I had to pick one over the other it would be FBBO for many reasons and I'll leave it at that.

Thanks for the input Meep, I'll call you if I find anything you might like at the swap meet on Sunday.
Huh, on that note, case and point from above! lots of great people on this site!

 

[detmatt1]

I'm happy to say that the "JUNKYARD DOG" now officially has a clear Michigan title!!!
Could be the first time this car has had a title since the `70's. Soon it will have insurance, which this car may never have had! I thought it was going to be a huge pain in the *** but it took 15 minutes at the Sec. of State, title's in the mail.

 

[74Satellite]

congrats!

 

[morbidgoat]

congrats but that was kinda gutsy doing all that work with out having a clear title. what if the car was stolen years ago now you would have done that work for nothing

 

[detmatt1]

congrats but that was kinda gutsy doing all that work with out having a clear title. what if the car was stolen years ago now you would have done that work for nothing

Did you see what I started with? Actually you are right it was on the risky side. I was putting it off because I thought it was going to be a huge hassle and there were several reasons I was sure it wasn't stolen.

 

[Meep-Meep]

That reminds me, I also need to get a title for my 69 RR. That means a visit with the nice friendly people at the CA DMV :icon_hang:

Glad to hear yours is official.

 

[Propwash]

Did you see what I started with? Actually you are right it was on the risky side. I was putting it off because I thought it was going to be a huge hassle and there were several reasons I was sure it wasn't stolen.

Like I said.....The guy's Indiana Jones. Bum Bum bump Bawwhhh..Bum Bum bawwww

 

[detmatt1]

OK. I made a reference to your project cause someone wanted me to post pics of Agent J. J ain't that bad

I am glad to see that Tem left his mark on this thread, thanks brother.

 

[detmatt1]

Got back at it for a few hours this morning. It turns out these quarters are a lot of work to hang properly. I can't really say anything negative about AMD because I got a smokin' deal on these quarters as scratch and dents and they may have been more tweeked out of shape then they appeared to be. The passenger side c-pillar is bent in souch a way that it has created a dogleg shape next to the glass(see pics) and that has also got that lower rear window corner all funky as well. On the drivers side it seems as though the wheel house is 3/8's of an inch to far forward and I am 100% sure that it is the new quarter that is off. Anyway in an effort to get it right I will do whatever it takes. Today I also put the trunklid back on along with the tail light extensions and set the old rear glass in place to see how it fit. Still some tweeking and sheet metal screwing to do before I can start welding again but I'll keep you posted.

 

[Donny]

Nice!!!!

 

[roadrunnerman]

looking good matt.

 

[Propwash]

looking good matt.

I agree....

That AMD stuff is pretty nice, but by no means is it as plug and play as most people think. Sounds like you got some creative thinking/working to do.
Can't say that I ran into those issue's with the AMD quarters on the 69'.
Doesn't seem like anything that couldn't be worked out. You'll get'er buddy :icon_thumleft:

 

[Meep-Meep]

You're doing the right thing by test fitting all the other parts. I'd even set the rear window trim up to see how it fits.