PST 1.03 torsion bars

[j-c-c-62]

After 20+ years of pushing online, mostly unsuccessfully, to at least upgrade to anything stock to over a 1"+ TB, I followed that suggestion by the biggest observation a 1+" bar owner will then have:
Did they go big enough? And you will never know

So far of the hundreds who finally made the leap, I have only read of one. And that one deserved more info, like were they running KYB's, a 25? profile tire, was suspension bottoming out, etc

 

[Kern Dog]

There is a guy that used to post at Moparts from Illinois...."Mopar Mitch".
Smart guy, he loved to race his Challenger. He was a big proponent of big torsion bars and ran a 1.22 size in his car.

 

[j-c-c-62]

There is a guy that used to post at Moparts from Illinois...."Mopar Mitch".
Smart guy, he loved to race his Challenger. He was a big proponent of big torsion bars and ran a 1.22 size in his car.

But everybody was afraid if they went from OEM HD .88 to ,96, their ride would be harsh, ride like a dump truck etc . Nobody would listen to Mitch. Of course, Mitch was on track competing, so no sweat off his back if they ignored him. IMO it's the best first initial most impactful upgrade followed by tires and then shocks.
My latest custom built TB is C body hex, B body length. 1.38", hollow.

 

[icetech]

I put 1.03s on my car and absolutely love how it rides.. the roads are **** here and this thing takes bumps better than my 2018 grand cherokee.. Also USCT frame connectors...

 

[HAHNAGON]

What size is your sway arm? Adjustable strut rods and the bigger 13/16 ain’t going to help it handle any better. If you want it to handle like a track car you’ve got to go bigger T-Bars, Sway Arms, Adjustable Upper A-Arms and stiffen the Chassis. I also suggest lowered spindles and rear leaf springs but I wanted ride over everything. I have everything you have in the front end, my Sway Arm is a 1 1/8 Hellwig and my shocks are Vikings and they are awesome and it doesn’t bounce. My boy is running the KYB gas adjust and while they are a great shock they are not even in the same ball park as these Vikings.

I use the Hellwig 1 3/8" front and addco 7/8" in rear. I do always add mopar XHD rear leaf springs and subframe connectors, plus I add my own version torque boxes. I know that is probably overkill, but I can't help it, I enjoy doing it. I do have spc tubular adjustable upper arms on the 70. Sounds like I need to try the Viking shocks??? I have never tried the 2" lower spindles and I think I want to try those or those ball joint lowering bracket that Chris Birdsong is making and selling. Anyone tried those yet?

 

[j-c-c-62]

"plus I add my own version torque boxes. I know that is probably overkill,"

Like wearing a belt with suspenders to hold up one's pants, redundant.
2" lowered spindles by any form mess with your roll center, it's not a given it will result in a better handling car.

 

[70ChargerRT]

"plus I add my own version torque boxes. I know that is probably overkill,"

Like wearing a belt with suspenders to hold up one's pants, redundant.
2" lowered spindles by any form mess with your roll center, it's not a given it will result in a better handling car.

On a stock suspension car maybe. On a stiffened chassis, with upgraded suspension Lowering these cars a few inches will have more positive affects for handling than negative.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Well, we disagree I guess on what is a given and what not is a given.
The readers here should also understand a 2" drop spindle does not mean one has to accept say 2" of chassis drop, alternatively they may choose to get/use only 1" of static drop and additionally gain another inch of compression travel, to stave off bottoming out, which is never a good thing.