Question about steel wheels

[trpl0sallday]

We have a 1965 satellite 3200 lbs race weight. Consistent mid 1.30 short time. Had a steel wheel made 10" wide 7 inches back spacing we was running an 8.75 with spool and strange axles spring relocation and caltracs until we busted both bearing caps. We will be going with a S60 from strange exact same dimensions on rear and suspension. Called strange to order and said we would like to have the center hub of the axle 5/8 of an inch so it will stick out through the drum and wheel so we are not just relying on the wheel studs and acorn style nuts. The fear is shearing the studs. Strange said they can't do that I'm assuming because their axles are sent to them as blanks and they machine from there. I know we are not the only ones using steel wheels and wondering what every one else is doing. We have thought about welding an extension on and turning it down to the diameter of the existing center of the axle. Any help would be appreciated

 

[Dodge 330]

You can purchase "rings" in different thicknesses that go on the axle hub to make them hub centric. ...or make your own.

 

[trpl0sallday]

You can purchase "rings" in different thicknesses that go on the axle hub to make them hub centric. ...or make your own.

The center diameter is good on the existing axles but want it to stick out farther. It just barely makes it to the inside of the wheel hub it would be if it was all the way through flush with the outside of the wheel. Who makes them I would like to see them

 

[1965wagon]

All that does is register the wheel it shouldn't help or keep it from sheering the stud off i would go to the 5/8 drive studs and the just drill the rims to fit then it will all be stronger and centered!

 

[actionange1]

Ran steelies with regular lugs, 8 3/4 with Mark Williams axles no special center journal.
Went 9.80s and never had an issue.

 

[trpl0sallday]

Thanks for the replies

 

[dvw]

Hubcentric isn't the issue. What keeps the wheel from moving is clamp load. The steel wheel doesn't have much contact on the rotor/drum surface. This can result in bent/sheared studs. Our fix was to machine a plate that extend through the lug holes and welded to the back of the wheel center. This allowed full contact of the back of the wheel to the rotor surface. Also went to 5/8" studs. Our car is 3750 with drag radials an a brake tuning high 1.30 60ft. No more bent wheel studs.
Doug

 

[1965wagon]

Hubcentric isn't the issue. What keeps the wheel from moving is clamp load. The steel wheel doesn't have much contact on the rotor/drum surface. This can result in bent/sheared studs. Our fix was to machine a plate that extend through the lug holes and welded to the back of the wheel center. This allowed full contact of the back of the wheel to the rotor surface. Also went to 5/8" studs. Our car is 3750 with drag radials an a brake tuning high 1.30 60ft. No more bent wheel studs.
Doug

Do you have any pictures of the wheels you did this to Doug I am curious to see what it looked like

 

[trpl0sallday]

Do you have any pictures of the wheels you did this to Doug I am curious to see what it looked like

I am interested in this alsowe ate quite a bit lighter dvw but would really hate to shear the studs. We have yet to try the transbrake in the glide (been leaving off the foot brake at 2200 rpm)but after after breaking the bearing caps in the 8.75 wondering what the next weak link will be after the Dana upgrade.