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Race fuel - What's best.

Looks good. What did you end up with timing, jets and rods? Any lash changes?

Final run was with 36 degrees timing, 110 jets, custom 7038 rod, .015 intake, .020 exhaust. The custom rod is because we were limited to jets and rods as our local speed shop has gone racing. We found that it wanted more fuel and more intake lift. There might be more left in it, and perhaps even more (or less) with a Super Victor and Dominator. The 505 never quit increasing in power with each step up in fuel. It loved it's fuel, that's for sure.
 
I would start out at the track at 42 degrees and go up from there. Personnaly haven't seen much gain beyond 32. Your jetting beyond stock calibration is +12_primary, +4% secondary. I would balance it by going to either 107 or a .042 rod in the primary and up the secondary to 113. This will result in 8% rich pri/sec . Then stay at That split going up or down. One rod or jet size by itself is roughly a 4% change. Stock is pri 113/.047, sec 107.
Doug
 
I would start out at the track at 42 degrees and go up from there. Personnaly haven't seen much gain beyond 32. Your jetting beyond stock calibration is +12_primary, +4% secondary. I would balance it by going to either 107 or a .042 rod in the primary and up the secondary to 113. This will result in 8% rich pri/sec . Then stay at That split going up or down. One rod or jet size by itself is roughly a 4% change. Stock is pri 113/.047, sec 107.
Doug

I've got your suggestions noted to try Doug, thanks! When I built the Plymouth I went with just the 6 point bar with intentions that it would never be an issue. I think that once I get the Plymouth chassis working good it could be close. From suggestions of Superstock and Mike, some double adjustable shocks would be a smart choice so those are now on the list.
 
I've got your suggestions noted to try Doug, thanks! When I built the Plymouth I went with just the 6 point bar with intentions that it would never be an issue. I think that once I get the Plymouth chassis working good it could be close. From suggestions of Superstock and Mike, some double adjustable shocks would be a smart choice so those are now on the list.


Can you fit a set of double adjustable coilovers out back or will your rear axle tube interfere with the spring?
I think 36 degrees will make you 60 foot better, might make you ET good but your mph will be down.
My 63 likes 35 degrees but would love to try 33 degrees for little more MPH but I know my 60 foot and ET will suffer.

63 plymouth dover reunion 2015.jpg
 
Can you fit a set of double adjustable coilovers out back or will your rear axle tube interfere with the spring?
I think 36 degrees will make you 60 foot better, might make you ET good but your mph will be down.
My 63 likes 35 degrees but would love to try 33 degrees for little more MPH but I know my 60 foot and ET will suffer.

View attachment 394155

It appears there could be room for coilovers on the rear. How would coil overs on the rear be better than a double adjustable without the spring though.

On the dyno it liked 36 degrees more. Better HP and TQ all the way through.

** love the 63 by the way!
 
It appears there could be room for coilovers on the rear. How would coil overs on the rear be better than a double adjustable without the spring though.

On the dyno it liked 36 degrees more. Better HP and TQ all the way through.

** love the 63 by the way!
I use the cal trac 9 way Adj rear shocks set on "9", full stiff (like cal trac tech told me to do).....hoOKs great
 
It appears there could be room for coilovers on the rear. How would coil overs on the rear be better than a double adjustable without the spring though.

On the dyno it liked 36 degrees more. Better HP and TQ all the way through.

** love the 63 by the way!


The reason I said coil overs is because you could set your ride height with coil overs and really fine tune your suspension.
But I think with the caltracs, the spring will adjust your ride height.
 
mike, do you know those 9 way ranchos are truck/offroad shocks?

Really? That's interesting to know. Superstock, that Plymouth of yours is damn quick, what's your 60' to go that fast.
 
The reason I said coil overs is because you could set your ride height with coil overs and really fine tune your suspension.
But I think with the caltracs, the spring will adjust your ride height.

Seems that good shocks is money best spent for sure. I got to be careful though, there's good HP there now and with a good chassis that 6-point bar could become an issue. But a warning letter would look good framed too!
 
With the dyno tests earlier this week and that leaking rear main seal the headers really took a beating with the oil getting thrown around and baked on. Many runs up past 6700.
Got to say that the TTI headers with the ceramic coating are excellent. With some elbow grease and a metal polish they cleaned up well! It was a good choice to go with TTI.
Regarding the rear main seal, a new one is in place and some mods to the seal retainer were made. I expect to have a fix. One thing that I did different was install the seal ends at 6 and 12 oclock. When dropping the retainer over this way it tells you where the retainer needs to be.




IMG_3876.JPG
 
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Seems that good shocks is money best spent for sure. I got to be careful though, there's good HP there now and with a good chassis that 6-point bar could become an issue. But a warning letter would look good framed too!



baby steps grasshopper!! lol
 
With the dyno tests earlier this week and that leaking rear main seal the headers really took a beating with the oil getting thrown around and baked on. Many runs up past 6700.
Got to say that the TTI headers with the ceramic coating are excellent. With some elbow grease and a metal polish they cleaned up well! It was a good choice to go with TTI.
Regarding the rear main seal, a new one is in place and some mods to the seal retainer were made. I expect to have a fix. One thing that I did different was install the seal ends at 6 and 12 oclock. When dropping the retainer over this way it tells you where the retainer needs to be.


Don't get use to shiny headers, oil **** happens, before you know, they'll begetting receramic coated.lol




View attachment 395063
 
mike, do you know those 9 way ranchos are truck/offroad shocks?

I know that Cal Trac bought Rancho....but Cal Trac says these are "Cal Trac" shocks...9 way adjustable. I think they bought Rancho for the shock making capabilities.

Pictured below is a Pix of my Dana Rear End with the Cal Trac Setup.

028.jpg
 
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So making progress with the Plymouth and everything's going together. Got to drag this out and make it last! Still lots of winter to get through.



IMG_3896.JPG

Things lined up and ready to go. Had to split the intake in order to get the engine high enough to get past the rad support without incident.

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Up and going nicely into place.

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Sitting in place, ready to go up and button up the bottom.

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Intake burst valves take care of those unsuspecting backfires. We experienced a few backfires on the dyno when the engine would come down to idle after a pull. We locked the distributor to eliminate advance, which smartened things right up, no more backfires and the engine would drop to a nice idle after a pull.

I had also mentioned earlier in this post that my intake stuffers had shrunk up because they were out of the intake for a lengthy time. So much so that I had to install studs and force them over the studs to get them back in place. The good news is that once they are bolted in place for awhile they do stretch back out again. IMG_3029.JPG
 
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Mike, I have QA1 single adjustable shocks. Not sure how they rate against the Calverts but the plan is to go with a set of Strange double adjustables. Perhaps there's a better shock than that, that someone is aware of. If so, please chime in.

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I ran the QA 1 on the front at first. Ran them almost full stiff. They were actually not to bad.
Doug
 
I ran the QA 1 on the front at first. Ran them almost full stiff. They were actually not to bad.
Doug
Cal trac tech told me (with a footbrake) to set the cal trac 9 way Adj shocks on FULL.STIFF which is the "9" setting.... I have done that and the car launches perfectly. I have a 5000 converter and I launch at 3000 off the foot brake. The cal trac tech told me to launch at the highest RPM that I can.
 
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