Radiator Upgrade

[Bigal75]

Lots of talk about fans. Replacing the cheap knock-off clutch with a quality Hayden was a good move for me. When a car heats up when moving, its NOT the fan.

I hear ya. But it's a weird issue. It seems so be heating up the most when cruising around town. I'll start with the fan since I know it has issues.

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I've used or seen everything under the sun used for cooling system and the best setup I've found is the factory HD 26" radiators with the proper shroud and a good quality 7 blade clutch fan. Lots of guys try to reinvent the wheel on this one and fail. I won't say the same thing about purple shaft cams and J converters lol!

Lol...some like it old school!!'

I agree with the cooling system. I'll get everything working right and go from there. Right now I have the HD 26" rad, good shroud and a 7 blade fan. The clutch is finished.

 

[Justin@ECP]

There is hope for a good Aluminum radiator/E-fans combo yet...a properly shrouded electric setup will flow enough to keep it cool

 

[Hemirunner]

There is hope for a good Aluminum radiator/E-fans combo yet...a properly shrouded electric setup will flow enough to keep it cool

Most of the electrics that get strapped on these just don't move enough air and the shroud on an undersized fan just blocks air flow at speed.

 

[Bigal75]

Most of the electrics that get strapped on these just don't move enough air and the shroud on an undersized fan just blocks air flow at speed.

Yep. Been there before on my Mustang. It's hard to beat a mechanical fan.

If your electric fan isn't pulling at least 4500cfm then it's not enough.

 

[66coronet500]

did you change your radiator core support to fit the Be Cool?

I was having rising temps with a mechanical fan and went to a 3300 cfm electric fan. That helped more at idle, but I was seeing higher temps at certain times and it was just too much when I started seeing 210-220. I recently swapped in a Be Cool unit (with 160º t-stat) and my regular temperatures are now in the 170-180 range all the time, running cooler when it's not hot outside. It was the best investment I have made, and though it was pricey I'm very happy with it.

Incidentally, I compared costs of buying all the components separately (radiator, overflow, cooling fans, relays, wiring, etc.) and the price wasn't that much more - about $200-300. But the peace of mind having a system that doesn't get over 185º now is worth it.

 

[71_Duster]

Skip all the low buck stuff and look at GlenRay.

I sent my Wizard rad back twice for leaks and cracks and am still fighting a cooling issue. Went over 3 months with no response from customer service. Can't say the cooling issue is a problem with the rad or my car however Bob at GlenRay who I haven't even spent a dime with has talked to me more by phone and e-mail then the other guys.

 

[65RoadRacer]

did you change your radiator core support to fit the Be Cool?

Nope! It was a direct bolt in. I drilled two holes on the front apron rail and four holes on the upper tie bar, and it was a piece of cake. Installation shown here:
http://www.streetlegaltv.com/tech-s...ors-through-the-ultimate-test-the-race-track/

 

[Jim's Maxie]

I've used or seen everything under the sun used for cooling system and the best setup I've found is the factory HD 26" radiators with the proper shroud and a good quality 7 blade clutch fan. Lots of guys try to reinvent the wheel on this one and fail. I won't say the same thing about purple shaft cams and J converters lol!

Best answer/advice so far !!!!!!!