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Read my plugs!?

Hubbarocks

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Hi guys. Just wanted second opinion if everything appears to be okay. New engine start up. Set base timing at 38 degrees. Mechanical dist advance. Seems to idle good by itself & no funky noises. so I broke the hyd flat tap cam in varying 2-3k rpms for 20 min. After cooldown, I Pulled the plugs . They look a little different each one, not a consistent golden brown .

Your thoughts on what needs to adjust?

69 charger
440 / 727
545/545 comp cam
Iron heads
Single plane Wieland intake
600 eddy-- I know runs well, cuz I took it off my small block. Just using it to brake the motor in , then I intend on swapping to EFI in spring.

Photos of plugs below, all from drivers side , 7,5,3,1 respectively
 
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Plugs 7 & 5

20210928_175828.jpg 20210928_175851.jpg
 
Not sure about your plugs, but no car runs base timing of 38°. Base timing will usually be from 10-18° btdc. Then add mechanical advance as rpm increases to between 32-36° for most w an all in rpm of 2500-3200 rpm. These are just averages, but I have never seen or heard of anyone running 38° base timing.
 
That setup is a bit off. First of all, you don't have enough carb for that cam and a single plane intake. An Edelbrock AVS 2 800CFM would be much more appropriate.
Second, like @diesel_lv stated above, 38 degrees is way to much for a base timing. Overall should be around 34-36.
I would switch to a dual plane manifold, a slightly larger carb, and reset the timing. Change the plugs. You didn't mention the ignition that you're using, but if you're running an MSD box, run a little hotter plug, and gap them around 36-38.
I like the NGK XR5.
 
The other guys have posted valid helpful points for sure.
One thing to bare in mind is the rings will not be bedded in so give things a bit of time to settle down.
Check and monitor but don't panic yet - they are not all black and dripping with oil.
That wouldn't be good.
 
Yep, you want your TOTAL advance (vacuum hose plugged) to come in at around 34-35 BTDC,
which means typically a base of around 15 BTDC at idle (depending on what distributor, etc.).
 
With stock iron heads the threads should only extend about 3/8". What number plugs are you using? RJ12YC or NGK 3332 should be sufficient.
 
With stock iron heads the threads should only extend about 3/8". What number plugs are you using? RJ12YC or NGK 3332 should be sufficient.
Good call. That’s a small block plug, or what would be referred to as a longer reach plug, or what would be used in an aftermarket head.
 
thanks all , very helpful.
look like I'm going to go find different plugs. i bought those plugs new from 440 source & didnt notice they indicate he "3/4" extended reach plugs our heads require" i didnt put 2 n' 2 together they were intended for their stealth heads ??

i'll find some RJ12YC or NGK 3332 as you guys recommended. glad i asked !!

i am using a MSD 6AL BOX with the mechanical advance dist. (from 440 source as well) almost everything for the motor i got from them , they were very helpful over the phone.

as far as the timing goes , i followed the instructions with in my performance mopar book. I'll snag a pic of the pages when i get home. maybe I'm doing it wrong . but i went thru step by step. it's been a long time since i had to set up a new motor. i appreciate the input here.
 
i looked at those plugs and thought, "those are pretty hot!". looked back to see iron heads. your lucky the plugs didn't clobber the pistons! put some autolite 85's in it and try again.
 
i looked at those plugs and thought, "those are pretty hot!". looked back to see iron heads. your lucky the plugs didn't clobber the pistons! put some autolite 85's in it and try again.

i did check piston / deck clearance before i put it together. i thought the plugs hung out quite a bit , but never tore down / built a big block so i didn't question it as long as it wasn't making contact. i thought it must be normal.. guess I'm an idiot .:cursin: lesson learned.

got the local parts store to order me a set of the NGK 3332 on lunch today and will keep er movin'
 
If you're reading the timing without unplugging the vacuum advance can it can look like its at 38 degrees.
Plug the vacuum advance can and check the timing again. Like said above there is no way its at 38 and running any sort of well.
 
Correct plugs look much better. Except for #6 was fouled out because the plug was arching thru the boot to the header! Yikes. I have since removed the header bashed it in at that location and have plenty of clearance there now. So that should take care of that issue. F'n headers....
 
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