Rebuilt 383 startup problems

[RRSweden]

Hi.
I could'nt get my engine to start. I'm thinking it's got to do with the dist. advance timing..

Some of you has helped me along the building of my 383, but for those of you who don't know here's some info.

383 with .030 overbore
compression ratio:10,5:1
closed chamber iron heads.
comp cams xe268 shaft.
stock distributor.

I had it set to 11* avdance, plugged the vacuum advance, and filled the floaters (holley 650dp) up manually. -Nothing.
Tried with some start-spray, but it didn't happen much. A couple of coughs at the most...

Then I backed it to like 8-10*. Backfired after a while.
turned it up to like 12-14 and it backfired again.

I don't know for how long it use to take a rebulit engine to start.
I have the stock starter and it feels like it's really slow.

I'm also kinda scared of the backfires and fire in the carburetor, as I'm pretty new at this.

Where would you start? Is'nt 11* a good place to start?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

You are not alone brother... here's some things to look at first.
1. Is your firing order correct? 18654372 - WRONG - see below for correct firing order
2. Are your plug wires (in the correct firing order) put on COUNTER-clockwise in order (big block distributors turn counter-clockwise & so does the firing order of the wires/plugs)
3. If #1 & #2 are OK, then is your distributor 180-degrees off? It can be installed "backwards". The rotor should point at #1 cylinder's cap terminal when #1 is at top dead center (firing). You can switch it pretty easily by loosening the distributor (with cap off), lifting it up 1/2", turning the rotor 180-degrees & put it all back in. It's easy to get the distributor off this way.

Let us know what you find out.

 

[oldbee]

+1 for purple!

 

[PurpleBeeper]

+1 for purple!

even a BLIND squirrel finds a nut from time to time

 

[RRSweden]

You are not alone brother... here's some things to look at first.
1. Is your firing order correct? 18654372
2. Are your plug wires (in the correct firing order) put on COUNTER-clockwise in order (big block distributors turn counter-clockwise & so does the firing order of the wires/plugs)
3. If #1 & #2 are OK, then is your distributor 180-degrees off? It can be installed "backwards". The rotor should point at #1 cylinder's cap terminal when #1 is at top dead center (firing). You can switch it pretty easily by loosening the distributor (with cap off), lifting it up 1/2", turning the rotor 180-degrees & put it all back in. It's easy to get the distributor off this way.

Let us know what you find out.

I'm sure I have the right order on the wires.
I set the rotor just after I got the distributor drive gear in place, so I could see that both lifters on #1 was allt the way down, so that confirms in at the compression stroke (right?)

I'm reading about initial timing, and see that some has up to 20-25* initial timing. As I have a pretty high compression ratio and a new cam, I'm totally confused about where to set the timing to begin with, to get the engine started for the first time..

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I'm sure I have the right order on the wires.
I set the rotor just after I got the distributor drive gear in place, so I could see that both lifters on #1 was allt the way down, so that confirms in at the compression stroke (right?)

I'm reading about initial timing, and see that some has up to 20-25* initial timing. As I have a pretty high compression ratio and a new cam, I'm totally confused about where to set the timing to begin with, to get the engine started for the first time..

Correct. IF your distributor was 180-degrees off, the exhaust valve of #1 (front piston on driver's side of engine), then the exhaust valve would be open.

You'll notice I added that the driver's side front piston is #1. Chrysler numbers the driver's side, front to back, as 1/3/5/7 and the passenger side is numbered, front to back, as 2/4/6/8.....just checking some of the easy-to-mix up things first.

Oh, and about your timing. Starting at 12 degrees initial timing is a good guess. You'll only have to be about +/- 10-degrees of your "perfect timing" for the motor to at least start. Coughing flames out of the carburetor is usually timing WAY off or plug wires mixed up, etc.

 

[oldbee]

It still oughta start at 0*. "Being sure" of something/anything means you checked at least twice! Don't ask why I say that. It may run crappy at 0* but it'll run.

 

[oldbee]

Make sure battery is charged up & if everything checks OK I'd spin distributor 180* and try again, it won't be any worse than now.

 

[RRSweden]

Make sure battery is charged up & if everything checks OK I'd spin distributor 180* and try again, it won't be any worse than now.

I have double checked the wire's order. I made a mark on a tape where the rotor was pointing at 11* and made sure the "1 on the cap was on the mark...

The 180 degree-trick... Do you mean the rotor will fit in the rotor shaft the opposit way? I don't get it? If i turn the rotor 180degrees it would point at #6...

 

[RRSweden]

Another question: How long does it take for the lifters to fill and build up pressure? I didn't prime them (according to comp's instructions).

 

[oldbee]

RRSwede- look at post #2 again; take off dist. holddown, lift up dist. and rotate the rotor&shaft 180*. I still agree with "purple" that ur timing is 180* out.

 

[oldbee]

Priming lifters probably takes 15-30 seconds if running.

 

[RRSweden]

RRSwede- look at post #2 again; take off dist. holddown, lift up dist. and rotate the rotor&shaft 180*. I still agree with "purple" that ur timing is 180* out.

But wouldn't that make the rotor point at #6 @ X degrees advance of TDC?

 

[Hemi 354]

Hey...PurpleBeeper.... that firing order should be: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

 

[oldbee]

RRSwede yes it will, but your engine could be 180* out of phase right now and this would set it right. You can only be(?) "on the money" or off by 180*

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Make sure the timing mark on the harmonic ballancer should be at TDC when he checks it? If the rotor button is pointing towards number 6 rather than number 1 then you are 180 out. remove the hold down pull the distributor out and rotate the rotor button and shaft at the same time 180 degrees and stab it back in. So that its pointing to number 1 on the cap. As long as you have the Harmonic ballancer line at TDC you will be either dead on or 180 like they said.

 

[oldbee]

Beep I agree, I guess you could set timing mark at say 10* Brecht and set rotor at the right plug but never did it myself. 0tdc always got ya close enuf to start&run before putting a timing light on it.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Beep I agree, I guess you could set timing mark at say 10* Brecht and set rotor at the right plug but never did it myself. 0tdc always got ya close enuf to start&run before putting a timing light on it.

This is just to simplify the issue. Or in another way all he would have to do is shift every plug wire on the cap to be 180 out. Thats if you/ME are lazy.

 

[Yatzee]

Hi.
I could'nt get my engine to start. I'm thinking it's got to do with the dist. advance timing..

Some of you has helped me along the building of my 383, but for those of you who don't know here's some info.

383 with .030 overbore
compression ratio:10,5:1
closed chamber iron heads.
comp cams xe268 shaft.
stock distributor.

I had it set to 11* avdance, plugged the vacuum advance, and filled the floaters (holley 650dp) up manually. -Nothing.
Tried with some start-spray, but it didn't happen much. A couple of coughs at the most...

Then I backed it to like 8-10*. Backfired after a while.
turned it up to like 12-14 and it backfired again.

I don't know for how long it use to take a rebulit engine to start.
I have the stock starter and it feels like it's really slow.

I'm also kinda scared of the backfires and fire in the carburetor, as I'm pretty new at this.

Where would you start? Is'nt 11* a good place to start?

Air, fuel and spark. Which ones are you missing. Pull the coil wire off the center tower of the distributor cap and make sure you have spark when cranking by bringing the boot close to a metal bolt or insert a bolt in the boot and bring the head of the bolt close to ground. If you have a pacemaker, get a friend to do this while you crank the engine. Got spark? Then manipulate the carb linkage to see if you have a squirt of fuel coming out the nozzels. Got fuel? If those two are present you have another issue like timing or maybe electrical. When you say you used starting fluid and nothing happened, it makes me think you have no spark.

 

[oldbee]

Beep c'mon. I just shifted one wire around to get my vac.advance positioned better. We don't need to screw up a "newer guy's" head!AND I had to stand& stare at the dist. to make sure I was heading in the right direction!