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Recommendations on a 2 post lift

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 2 post lift. I have 12 ft ceiling in my shop so height shouldn't be a problem. Probably get a 10,000 pound. For you guys that have a floor plate, any regrets?
Had one with floor plates for a few years absolutely hated it put in a bendpak with cables ,brace above absolutely love it added another drive on bendpak last year for the prowler and viper love it also
 
The floorplate lifts are a pita. The plate always seems to be in the way. Even if you're just changing oil.
I put my lift outside to keep the shop floor open. I did have the contractor pour the center bay thicker to accommodate a lift if I decide to put one inside.
 
I’ve had my Weaver 10k 2-post for 4 years. No floor plate is good and more stable. It’s asymmetrical and that helps a lot. It’s in 6” slab with no problems.
For safety always make sure the arms are locked and use front and back support rods when wrenching on big stuff.
Definitely a huge help in my garage.
 
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 2 post lift. I have 12 ft ceiling in my shop so height shouldn't be a problem. Probably get a 10,000 pound. For you guys that have a floor plate, any regrets?
I have a 9000k lb with floor plate. No regrets at all. It is a ATLAS and have had my 94 diesel on it and a quad cab 2019. In use for 3 years now
 
There are 2 styles of lift arms. Mine are the better style in the sketch. I've had both types. Both arms swinging back is best.

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I see Mohawk lifts in shops that are 40 years old still get used every day
 
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 2 post lift. I have 12 ft ceiling in my shop so height shouldn't be a problem. Probably get a 10,000 pound. For you guys that have a floor plate, any regrets?
I love my Rotary center post lift after 16 years. Never an issue mounted on a 4 inch cc floor with radiant heat.
 
I have a Benwell 8K just a bit short on lifting power for trucks. Only real thing I don't like is you can't open the doors up when the car is on it. Make sure your concrete is thick enough where it will be bolted down.
Sounds like you are set on a 2 post but I got a 4 post and would never trade for a 2. You can open the doors, use an air jack in a cross tray to lift the rear end or etc. and no need to pour footings to bolt posts down.
 
I have a Forward 9k symmetric/asymmetric lift with the overhead cables/structure. It has been terrific! I like the overhead structure preventing/reducing lateral forces on the columns since they cancel each other out. My concrete was poured in anticipation of a hoist but until you drill the holes and measure, you're never quite sure (mine were 6-1/2" to 8" thick). Forward brand is made by Rotary and is a certified lift.

I think you would really appreciate not having the floor plate.

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Sounds like you are set on a 2 post but I got a 4 post and would never trade for a 2. You can open the doors, use an air jack in a cross tray to lift the rear end or etc. and no need to pour footings to bolt posts down.
Like Racinguy25 said above, I was going to say unless you are dead set on a 2 post, I recommend 4 post lifts. I have an 11,000lbs 4 post lift that with the pneumatic hydraulic jack on a rolling tray between the runners. I can do anything a 2 post lift can (so far), plus the whole unit can be moved around the shop with the included casters (unloaded obviously). I just feel safer under a 4 post lift. One of the best unintended benefits is the runners are the perfect "bench" for tools while doing brakes or whatever you're working on.
 
The only issue I have with a 4 post lift is if you do brake work or suspension work you need to bend forward over the flat. As I have gotten older I can't tolerate that as much. With a two post you can stand straight while you work.
Otherwise they are fine
 
The only issue I have with a 4 post lift is if you do brake work or suspension work you need to bend forward over the flat. As I have gotten older I can't tolerate that as much. With a two post you can stand straight while you work.
Otherwise they are fine
I understand what you're saying, but they come in different width's and lengths. I got the extra wide/long to facilitate my F350 pickup. Here's a photo of my Jeep, which is narrow so you can see how well it fits. Plus it shows the lift that makes life so much easier. Also, I'm 62 so I know what you mean. I lowered the lift down to the perfect height so I could sit on a stool as I was doing the brakes. Work smarter, not harder! (I wish I would have learned that earlier in life!)

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I have an Atlas 2 post symmetric/ asymmetric 2 post lift that I have had for 11 years. It has been flawless. The cables are on top so there is no floor plate.

In my opinion, there is no "best lift" between a 2 post or 4 post lift. Each has it's pros and cons.
A 2 post lift is easier when you need to work on the car - more room underneath. It takes up less room too but has to be installed properly.
A 4 post lift is easier to load and you can better protect a car that you park underneath it. It takes up more room but it can be moved around and needs no special floor preparation.

For my 2 post lift, I bought one metal 4 x 8 roof panel that I narrowed a little bit and then I hang that underneath the car above. It does a decent job of catching spills, but certainly not as good as a 4 post with a full set of floor panels installed. Picture below isn't the greatest, but that's my 70 Road Runner up top with my "beater" daily driver 69 Vette below. Note the wood furring strip under he axle of the Road Runner. That, along with one at the front, holds my home made drip tray.

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I have an Atlas 2 post symmetric/ asymmetric 2 post lift that I have had for 11 years. It has been flawless. The cables are on top so there is no floor plate.

In my opinion, there is no "best lift" between a 2 post or 4 post lift. Each has it's pros and cons.
A 2 post lift is easier when you need to work on the car - more room underneath. It takes up less room too but has to be installed properly.
A 4 post lift is easier to load and you can better protect a car that you park underneath it. It takes up more room but it can be moved around and needs no special floor preparation.

For my 2 post lift, I bought one metal 4 x 8 roof panel that I narrowed a little bit and then I hang that underneath the car above. It does a decent job of catching spills, but certainly not as good as a 4 post with a full set of floor panels installed. Picture below isn't the greatest, but that's my 70 Road Runner up top with my "beater" daily driver 69 Vette below. Note the wood furring strip under he axle of the Road Runner. That, along with one at the front, holds my home made drip tray.

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You have some valid points Hawkrod. Besides, any lift is better than no lift when you get older! I got tired of picking myself up off the floor every time I realized I had the wrong size socket! BTW, I love your "beater" daily driver! That's a classic.
 
You have some valid points Hawkrod. Besides, any lift is better than no lift when you get older! I got tired of picking myself up off the floor every time I realized I had the wrong size socket! BTW, I love your "beater" daily driver! That's a classic.
Once you get a lift (2 or 4 post), I think you will instantly get spoiled! It really is one of the best tools I have ever invested in. :thumbsup:

My "beater" 69 Corvette sat for many years. The mice got into the interior and it really had pretty poor maintenance during its lifetime. But it only had 30,6xx miles when I got it, and it was a (unplanned) deal that I couldn't turn down. It just sort of fell into my lap. The maintenance and fixing of stuff I know how to do, and the body and paint is pretty respectable. It is a base engine (300HP 350) car with an automatic, 3.08 Posi rear, PS, PB, A/C and power windows. So it is a cruiser, not a bruiser. But I figured driving this car for a few years will cost me WAY LESS than the depreciation on any new vehicle. Heck, I've probably lost about $28,000 or more in depreciation on my 2020 Ram since I bought it, and that is twice what I paid for the Vette.
 
My garage is small, 10.5 foot ceiling, 24 feet wide, hoist is about 12 feet wide, can't lift a van or truck to full height but most cars can go all the way up. This Atlas 9000lb model is narrower than most so it fit my space well, I had to go base plate because of my ceiling. I bought it through the local NAPA for $3400ish Canadian all in 5.5 years ago. I worked on cars in that same garage 10 years plus before the hoist, never figured I had the room. Once I got the hoist I wondered why I hadn't done it years before, I spent similar money on less useful things. I'm a career auto mechanic, bought the hoist for my home garage, personal use, less than 6 months later I was working full time at home, been using the hoist daily since fall 2019. It's stood up well, not made for that much duty cycle, has worn a little more than a brand name might, but maybe not. For a hobbyist not needing to lift more than a half ton it would last a long while. If a guy wasn't restricted on garage space I would go with a bigger 2 post than mine. One of the things with a basic one like mine is the arms aren't always long or short enough. Getting into a higher grade hoist with maybe 3 stage telescoping arms can be better. Thing to consider with asymmetrical 2 post vs symmetrical is that not all Chinese asymmetrical are created equal vs a Rotary and they can be hard to get smaller vehicles on, the arms end up being too long because they don't actually pivot asymmetrically. The good thing about baseplate 2 post lifts is not being restricted on height by a cross bar, say you are 6'2", lifting a van with a ladder rack, you can go to full height. The baseplate isn't unbearable to work around, I don't have mine anchored down, so I can easily pull it up to clean underneath, if is was bolted down I figure the salt water would kill those anchors quick enough to not bother, pushing something in with stiff/stuck brakes takes some extra attention. A four post hoist is good too, for what they lack in access vs a 2 post they make up with ease of driving on and giving a place to set your tools while you work on it. When you get into a cheaper 4 post or drive on scissor lift they can be capable of supporting a vehicle driven on, but when jacking a heavier vehicle like a diesel pickup, they can flex, twisting the ramp by the load put on the inner lip that supports the jack. A shop I worked at had a John Bean 2 post bought through Snap On, it had a similar serial tag as my Atlas with a different brand name, made in PRC. I prefer something made in North America but when purchasing off shore products, even if sold by domestic suppliers, without research, can pay a lot more for the same thing with no better service to justify it.

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I use a Tuff lift Hoist in Australia, it's probably rebranded. I've had it for 8 years now and it's operation has been flawless. When I built the shed I put 3' x 3' pads and 1' deep with double mesh under the hoist feet.

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