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Recommendations on engine harness and simplest electronic ignition 68 RR

gofast1320

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looking to buy a complete wiring harness for my 68 Roadrunner, I want to run electronic ignition and not have to deal with a ballast resistor or factory ecu, what is the best set up ? Thanks in advance, Dan
 
looking to buy a complete wiring harness for my 68 Roadrunner, I want to run electronic ignition and not have to deal with a ballast resistor or factory ecu, what is the best set up ? Thanks in advance, Dan
I have become a cheerleader for the HEI conversion. It works very well and is not very noticeable. As far as the new harness is concerned, I like to build my own.
Mike
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Using the stock points type harness I would suggest the Pertronix I to replace the points.
Easy install into the stock distributor. We have had good luck with them for over 20 years now.
Several dozen installed and no failures. My 2 cents.
 
I believe M&H supplies a harness for the elec ign conversion if you're using a Mopar setup ? Not sure. Check with Year One.
 
Something like this is what I did on my '66 Poly 318. Only thing I modified was the ballast resister. I removed the resister via the backside of the ceramic block...replaced it with a piece of solid 12ga wire (probably overkill), using existing terminals, soldered wire to the blade connectors and bolted it back to the firewall...no clipping/ splicing wires. If someone ever wanted to go back original, all they need is a stock ballister and of course an original distributor. I used an MSD spark plug kit (cut to fit type) with proper ends for the 'GM' style cap (and left the 'umbrella' off). Most don't even notice the distributor change. Been on my car since 2012. Have not had a single issue with it.

https://www.classicindustries.com/p...D5Xkz6LGtJZOmSX9DBYaAkapEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
When I did my 68 RR years ago I got my harness from Evans Wiring in PA. and told them I would be using a Direct Connection Electronic Ignition kit with electronic voltage regulator along with a (I think) a 72 and later alternator and when the harness came in there was no cutting and everything worked, and I never had an issue.
 
When I did my 68 RR years ago I got my harness from Evans Wiring in PA. and told them I would be using a Direct Connection Electronic Ignition kit with electronic voltage regulator along with a (I think) a 72 and later alternator and when the harness came in there was no cutting and everything worked, and I never had an issue.

I just installed an Evans engine and front lighting harness on a ‘69 Dart Swinger 340, it came prewired for Mopar electronic ignition which was an option. Nice piece which went on with zero issues…
 
Engine harness is likely one of the simplest harness on the car. The front lights harness is not difficult to build either.
-- Edit: After reading the above, I have to qualify that it is easy only if you know electronics, have the right tools and materials. Otherwise you could spend alot of time and money getting all the correct connectors (and connector holders), colored wire of the correct gauge sizes, wire covering, shrink tubing, and tools. I think I have over $500 in various types of crimpers alone.--

The rear harness is a bit harder because of length and break-outs for center console, trunk light, fuel sender and such.
The dash harness is the most difficult, but usually is a basic dash harness and additional addons for different options.
The dash harness has many special connectors like Bulkhead, fuse block, ignition, light switch, hi/low beam switch turn signal switch connector and such.
I bought the Year One M&H harnesses for dash, rear / light harness, and front / light harness. No engine harness as that will be custom for the sequential port injected EFI.
For cheap and easy electronic ignition, the 4-pin HEI module like in post #2.
My '71 Charger with FiTech TBI EFI is just running a stock 400 cid lean burn distributor.
 
Yup post #2. If you do not want to use a bal res, use an core coil such as MSD # 8207 or Summit # SUM-850500 with it. The E core coil gives more spark energy & you can 0.060" plug gaps.
 
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