Repro brake lines on the axle or just buy generic from parts store?

[OneWheelPeel]

Hopefully the weather will let me do the rear brakes on my 69 Coronet with an 8.25 read diff next weekend. I'm anticipating the worst, which is the line getting damaged where it meets the wheel cylinder when I try to remove it, so I want to be prepared.
The rubber line is new but the metal lines are not, and since it looks like just two lines from a block it seems worth doing even if the wheel cylinder comes loose without issue.

Question is should I go with a repro kit or just lengths of line from the local store? I just need to know what fitting size to ask for if I go that route. I am equipped to bend, cut and flare if they only have line that is way too long, its been a long time since I've done it but I still have the tools.

When I last did this finding the right line with the counterperson was the biggest hurdle, but I'm willing to give it a go again. Pic of the diff in question

 

[493 Mike]

Buy the lines closest to what you need. Bend them to your requirements and cut to length. Then use the scrap tubing to make some double flares for practice. Finish and have a cold beer!
Mike

 

[bm02tj]

When I sold car parts I had to show a few mechanics how to properly make a double flair as they swore
the tool was no good
So practice is good

 

[OneWheelPeel]

Any idea on what size to ask for? Or just walk in with the wheel cylinder and find whatever screws into it (assuming its the same fitting for the distribution block on the axle)?

 

[gtx6970]

All depends if you have a good double flairing tool.

 

[OneWheelPeel]

All depends if you have a good double flairing tool.

Yes I'm equipped to do that.

 

[pnora]

Line nuts are 3/16 inverted flare.

 

[Dodge33]

If you do the job yourself, line size diameter is 3/16" IIRC, I think you can do the right side with a 51" line, but measure first to be sure of all the lengths on both axles.

 

[OneWheelPeel]

Line nuts are 3/16 inverted flare.

Thanks!

 

[pnora]

Thanks!

I also like the Nickel-Copper Alloy Brake Lines. I buy it bulk. It bends smoother and easier than steel and also flares easier.

 

[rmchrgr]

If you don't care about a "correct" appearance or what have you then sure just bend 'em up. Get the coated tubing so they don't corrode. Hope you have good tools for the flares and bends. Much easier to do this job with the rear out of the car on a stand/dolly or on the bench. If that's not in the cards then just make sure you have enough room to maneuver around comfortably.

I'm not sure if the lines are the same for the smaller rear ends as they are for the 8 3/4 but if they are, I'd save yourself the hassle and buy the repro ones. I've made my own several times but if/when I do it again I'll buy the pre-made ones.

Year One B body Rear axle brake lines

 

[pnora]

If you don't care about a "correct" appearance or what have you then sure just bend 'em up. Get the coated tubing so they don't corrode. Hope you have good tools for the flares and bends. Much easier to do this job with the rear out of the car on a stand/dolly or on the bench. If that's not in the cards then just make sure you have enough room to maneuver around comfortably.

I'm not sure if the lines are the same for the smaller rear ends as they are for the 8 3/4 but if they are, I'd save yourself the hassle and buy the repro ones. I've made my own several times but if/when I do it again I'll buy the pre-made ones.

Year One B body Rear axle brake lines

He has the perfect template right in front of him. If the nuts are seized on the old lines then cut them off flush at the nuts and carefully remove them. Very easy to copy the bends and add an inch or so for flaring. Plus if he cuts the lines off a 6 point socket makes quick work of removing the old nuts. These so called custom fit lines sometimes leave a lot to be desired. To each their own. Plus your link is not correct for his application.

 

[Don Frelier]

He has the perfect template right in front of him. If the nuts are seized on the old lines then cut them off flush at the nuts and carefully remove them. Very easy to copy the bends and add an inch or so for flaring. Plus if he cuts the lines off a 6 point socket makes quick work of removing the old nuts. These so called custom fit lines sometimes leave a lot to be desired. To each their own. Plus your link is not correct for his application.

I agree with the above but I would add that the prebent lines I've purchased worked really well.

 

[ruffcut]

Heck, if it's a driver and not a show queen, I'd get lines from the parts store, premade in slightly longer form and if needed, put an extra bend or two in them to get the correct length needed. No cutting, flaring and call it done.
In years past, when money was tight, and the vehicle had to be road worthy quickly, no garage to work in, that's what I did! ruffcut

 

[RR Fan Dan]

If anyone crawls under your car and tells you that your brake lines are not period correct, stomp on their nuts while they’re down there.

Go with the auto parts store parts.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

If you decide to bend your own brake lines, don’t forget the flare nut like I’ve done after I made a perfect flare.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

If you decide to bend your own brake lines, don’t forget the flare nut like I’ve done after I made a perfect flare.

You were just practicing.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

You were just practicing.

That’s my excuse.

 

[rmchrgr]

He has the perfect template right in front of him. If the nuts are seized on the old lines then cut them off flush at the nuts and carefully remove them. Very easy to copy the bends and add an inch or so for flaring. Plus if he cuts the lines off a 6 point socket makes quick work of removing the old nuts. These so called custom fit lines sometimes leave a lot to be desired. To each their own. Plus your link is not correct for his application.

That's all fine but I did say that I wasn't sure if the lines are the same for both rears. If there are no reproductions available for the OPs particular application then obviously he's gotta make 'em - it's really not even worth discussing. Personally, I'd rather spend the $35 or whatever on the repro one (if available) and spend my time on something else. That's just me though. But ultimately - if they're not leaking - why even bother?

I also respectfully disagree with how easy you think this job is because there is a template. Plumbing brake lines takes skill and good tools. If you don't care about fit and finish then whatever, just do what you gotta do to get the car back on the road. I'm just saying if you or whoever wants the end result to be somewhat correct-looking the job can get involved.

 

[pnora]

That's all fine but I did say that I wasn't sure if the lines are the same for both rears. If there are no reproductions available for the OPs particular application then obviously he's gotta make 'em - it's really not even worth discussing. Personally, I'd rather spend the $35 or whatever on the repro one (if available) and spend my time on something else. That's just me though. But ultimately - if they're not leaking - why even bother?

I also respectfully disagree with how easy you think this job is because there is a template. Plumbing brake lines takes skill and good tools. If you don't care about fit and finish then whatever, just do what you gotta do to get the car back on the road. I'm just saying if you or whoever wants the end result to be somewhat correct-looking the job can get involved.

I agree every ones skills are different. Myself all I need is nuts, line, tube cutter and a double flaring tool. Less that an hour it's done. Of course at 71 years young I have done one or two lines.