• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

ring and pinion gears

c.moo

Well-Known Member
Local time
1:26 PM
Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Messages
353
Reaction score
109
Location
tennessee
What do you look for to see if your ring and pinion gears needs replace , I know if it looks burnt or teeth is broken off or teeth is real thin . How much wear on teeth is acceptable . Google it but , everything except what i was looking for , like wear patterns good and bad . One more thing which is best replacement brand . Thanks
 
First question: why are you thinking you have a problem with the gearset in the first place?
 
First question: why are you thinking you have a problem with the gearset in the first place?
Just bought sure grip carrier from dr. diff and new seals , bearings , rear yoke , my was a open carrier , If i could use the ring and pinion it would save money and bought this rear end several years ago , looks alright , just want to be sure .
 
Was the rear end noisy before? If not I'd say you will be ok, hard part will be matching the pattern that's already worn into those gears. Clean the gears up really good and take a pattern, measure current backlash. Try and setup with new carrier to the same pattern and backlash.
 
Was the rear end noisy before? If not I'd say you will be ok, hard part will be matching the pattern that's already worn into those gears. Clean the gears up really good and take a pattern, measure current backlash. Try and setup with new carrier to the same pattern and backlash.
Oh boy.....I wish it was that easy. Let me elaborate for everyone because this might lead to some different answers, possibly. So I bought this 8.75 489 assembly (rear axle) w/3.91s for my superbee..close to 10 years ago. I put it in my garage until I needed it and my car was ready for the new rear. I expected to have to rebuild some components but here's what happened. I mistakenly thought the rear was full of gear oil and it wasn't. It sat rusting for 10 years and I didn't even know. The Suregrip was one big ball of rust...trashed. The R & P was de-rusted but appeared severely pitted so I didn't use them either. The axles were fine and they already had green bearings. I bought an entire package from Doc Diff to replace all these and new axle seals. The disassembly of the 489 revealed a shim under the pinion race; not below the gear and bearing. I looked at the etched number on the bottom of the new pinion and tried to get as close as I could with the shims in the kit. The kit also included the crush eliminator spacer. I am using it. I was able to get 20 lbs of pulling torque on the preload. There are 2 norms based on used parts and new parts...from what I can find. 20 lbs. seems like the happy medium. All of my shims in this new kit go under the bearing and not the race so I can't exactly use the original because I tweaked the edge when I was knocking out the original bearing race. I'm essentially starting from scratch. I have my in. lb. beam torque wrench, calipers, micrometer, bearing puller with cup halves and collar, and the clicker 250 ft torque wrench. I think the only tool I don't own is the pinion depth jig to calculate that measurement. Soooooo, with all of this, hopefully helpful, info...can I hear some opinions? It would be greatly appreciated. Again, even tho I've been a Mopar guy my whole life, this is the first time I've ever had to do a pumpkin on my own.
 
If you're replacing the pinion bearings just make the old ones your check bearings. I've used a pinion depth tool before but didn't have much luck, it was all over the place. I use "check bearings" and keep taking patterns. It's the worst part about setting up a new gear set.
 
If you're replacing the pinion bearings just make the old ones your check bearings. I've used a pinion depth tool before but didn't have much luck, it was all over the place. I use "check bearings" and keep taking patterns. It's the worst part about setting up a new gear set.
I finally used a check bearing for the shimming preload. What a PITA. Then the tooth pattern seemed shallow so I shimmed the pinion up a little more. I think I got it but I won't know for sure until I run it. That's a few months away. I appreciate the input! These definitely aren't fun!!
 
I posted a week of two ago about tips on tackling a gear change in my 489 rear and got only 2 responses - both were take it to a driveline shop. No help. So guess I’ll do that although I have no way of knowing if the guy there has any more ability than I do. Hope you stayed away from Richmond (and I hear also Motive) gears. I’ve been through two sets of Richmond gears and 4 set ups and they howled so much I can’t stand it.
 
I posted a week of two ago about tips on tackling a gear change in my 489 rear and got only 2 responses - both were take it to a driveline shop. No help. So guess I’ll do that although I have no way of knowing if the guy there has any more ability than I do. Hope you stayed away from Richmond (and I hear also Motive) gears. I’ve been through two sets of Richmond gears and 4 set ups and they howled so much I can’t stand it.
Damn sorry to hear..... Richmond gears for some reason are noisy! I've had good luck with motives honestly.
....not sure why people said to take it to a shop, are you willing to buy some tools and learn? It definitely takes a few times to get it right! If you were anywhere near me I'd help you out for sure
 
I finally used a check bearing for the shimming preload. What a PITA. Then the tooth pattern seemed shallow so I shimmed the pinion up a little more. I think I got it but I won't know for sure until I run it. That's a few months away. I appreciate the input! These definitely aren't fun!!
Check bearings are a must! The more you do the "easier" it gets.....still a process but you'll understand it a little better
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top