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roadrunner 8.4

I have no idea where to take a block for machining any more around Mi. Unless you spend damn near the cost of a replacement block! Guy here in howell comes with high regaurds. We will see here in a month or so. What cam bearing installer are you using?

i can't find a marking on it, had it probably 20 years. Yea pretty hard to find decent work, unless you personally know the guy running the machining equipment.

Been really busy with kids/work. haven't done **** on the motor. worked on my run stand a bit today. still gotta fab up a dash and wire it. I have a bunch of gauges that were in the rr when i got it plus a extra msd box so i should get out of this pretty cheap.

 
finished up my run stand today. its complete with charging system. pretty much all stuff I had around the garage already. might have $50 bucks into it. ran the 440 on it just to work out any bugs. now its time to get to work on the big motor..





https://youtu.be/8BcFNKAbhWs
 
cam bearings fit like crap in this block, spent a good hour and a half with my bearing knife and scotch brite.

your best friend on BBM cam bearings


hit the high spots with the knife then hit it with red scotch brite and do it again


core plugs are knocked in, now I just need a good afternoon to gap rings and toss the short together....

 
never ever scotch brite your bearings :eusa_whistle:


I always offset my rear mains seal a touch


crank is in, end play is good 0.007



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tight distributer drive gear bushing after putting new one in? no problem, take an old gear and cut a groove into it. a little oil and screw it through.
 
rings were for a 4.380 bore, they had a pretty good over lap. took some filling
IMG_1990_zpsph8gvclb.jpg


I only file one side, that leaves me with a nice square edge to check the filed side with. should be able to close the ring, hold it up to the light and not see any at the gap.
IMG_1991_zpsy2f08icm.jpg


I have an old honing stone I use to debur the edges. a file will also work.
IMG_1992_zpsfjxdgpkb.jpg


set them .020/.022
IMG_1993_zpsceubp2fv.jpg


made this handy board years ago
IMG_1994_zpsioiotknc.jpg


organized and ready to knock it together. hard part is the prep work, only take a few minutes to put the slugs in.
IMG_1995_zpszjs7zvph.jpg

IMG_1999_zpsis97dkuk.jpg

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Looking good! The only job I truly hate when doing assembly is spiral locks and rings!! I always end up bleeding lol!!
 
Nice build I love your work ethic & attention to every detail...

congrats on the nice runs at the track too,
even if you got booted...LOL

I'll save this one to my favorites for referencing...
 
Nice build I love your work ethic & attention to every detail...

congrats on the nice runs at the track too,
even if you got booted...LOL

I'll save this one to my favorites for referencing...


For those that missed it, it's in the car and running.. Haven't been very good on my updates. first time to the track yesterday, they told me go home and come back with a roll bar..

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I must have missed it. What is your C Ratio? And are those Indy heads?

I never poured it but should be slightly over 10.5:1. Yes they are Indy SR heads ported by modern cylinder head. Still standard port window.

Latest time slip
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Beautiful car, love the blue! What color is that?
Did you line hone the block with studs or bolts? I've heard different stories about changing from bolt to studs after the machine work so I'm just curious...
I can't see what difference would make as long as the cleareances were correct after being torqued...
Thanks for the post!
 
Very impressive! I am considering the same type build for my 69 RR 440 six pack car. Is there much advantage in using a 400 block? Other than more clearance in the engine bay? The dis advantage is I would need to buy a low deck six pack intake. I already have 2 400-630 blocks, and a couple 440 blocks. I realize the 400 block is sturdier, and has .020" bigger cyl bore to start with.
 
Very impressive! I am considering the same type build for my 69 RR 440 six pack car. Is there much advantage in using a 400 block? Other than more clearance in the engine bay? The dis advantage is I would need to buy a low deck six pack intake. I already have 2 400-630 blocks, and a couple 440 blocks. I realize the 400 block is sturdier, and has .020" bigger cyl bore to start with.

I think the smaller main and sturdier main web is a plus. The main reason I switched to the low deck was to fit the factory air cleaner under the sixpack hood with the raised port heads. It wouldn't go with the rb I had in the car.
 
Beautiful car, love the blue! What color is that?
Did you line hone the block with studs or bolts? I've heard different stories about changing from bolt to studs after the machine work so I'm just curious...
I can't see what difference would make as long as the cleareances were correct after being torqued...
Thanks for the post!

The studs distort the bores different from bolts. Can you get away without doing it? (I have) but, It's usually best to do an align hone anyway if building something of this caliber. Color is 2001 Isuzu med met blue. Closest thing I could find so I didn't have to paint the jams.

IMG_0052.JPG
 
Thats what I was wondering... my block is already done and I'vee been contemplating going to studs but I hear more people saying it wont work or is worth the risk. Then there's the stories like yours, of people that have done it without issue...
Again beautiful car and thanks for the reply!
 
Thats what I was wondering... my block is already done and I'vee been contemplating going to studs but I hear more people saying it wont work or is worth the risk. Then there's the stories like yours, of people that have done it without issue...
Again beautiful car and thanks for the reply!

Was it done with aftermarket bolts? I was a machinist/engine builder so I have a pretty good feel for what I can personally get away with. i also verify what I'm dealing with using a dial bore gauge. I never guess.. lol
 
My first low deck 452 used shot peened low deck rods with aftermarket rod bolts , Milodon main studs as I recall. Didn't line hone for the cut down 440 crank. Bearings looked fine each time I looked. Got over 350 runs with about 600 HP before end of the year teardown revealed a broken main cap. Was running it to 7400 RPM normally. Stock based parts can't deal with that. Live & let learn. Build a new motor.
 
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