Rocker and valve issues

[Huskie007]

I have a 440. Edelbrock heads and PRW rocker set with lunati hydraulic roller rocker and roller cam. The push rods have a ball on the end. I discovered the mechanic installed the roller rocker bar upside down and backwards placing oiling holes angled up at a 45 degree angle on the right side only. So it was not oiling down through the bar. My issues are with right side only.

The car was idling fine in the garage then all of a sudden it started to idle funny and started shake back and forth with a knocking noise. This is when I discovered the rocker issue..

So I installed rocker bar correctly and also shimmed it too.. some of the rockers were loose.

My issue is when i set the preload on the push rod I am going to zero lash and then doing a 1/8 turn. I read you can do 1/8 to 3/4 on hydraulic roller rockers.

Now when I start it it races a little hire on the idle then pop a bit out rear exhaust on the right side only.. then finally idles down and dies...

Help...

 

[PRHeads]

Describe your procedure for how you went about adjusting the preload on the lifters.

This isn’t a complicated task, but if it isn’t done correctly....... you’ll have problems.

I want to see if it’s a prodcedural error, or if maybe you have some parts that have issues.

 

[Huskie007]

Describe your procedure for how you went about adjusting the preload on the lifters.

This isn’t a complicated task, but if it isn’t done correctly....... you’ll have problems.


I loosen the rocker nut and screw all the way back soo I can shake the push rod backs and forth..i use my finger to move the push rod up and down.. I slowly twist the screw in till push rod doesnt clatter go back forth loosely.. wants the tension is out I am zero lash. Then turn it 1/8 and tighten it down with the nut. I can still spin the push rod and I can feel it snug against the hydraulic roller lifter. I can still move it up and down but that is because of the spring in the lifter.


I want to see if it’s a prodcedural error, or if maybe you have some parts that have issues.

 

[PRHeads]

How do you determine you have the cam in the right position to adjust each particular rocker?

 

[Johnpat]

Comp Cams has a video on U-Tube that shows
the proper way to adjust hyd & solid lifters.
Think that would be beneficial for you.

 

[Huskie007]

Describe your procedure for how you went about adjusting the preload on the lifters.

This isn’t a complicated task, but if it isn’t done correctly....... you’ll have problems.

I want to see if it’s a prodcedural error, or if maybe you have some parts that have issues.

 

[Huskie007]

I took out the up and down clatter of the push rod. Until it was snug, but the push rod could still spin a bit.. then i turned it 1/8 and tighten the nut. The rod could still move up n a down due to hydraulics in the roller but there was no clatter.. I used a chart to adjust.. starting at TDC 1 then adjusted the specific intake n exhaust rockers. I would move to next cylinder every 90 degrees and adjust the rockers. I went to each cylinder rock wise till complete..

 

[PRHeads]

You’re not being very specific on how you determined which valve to adjust, and when.
I suspect this is where the issue is(if there is indeed an issue with how you did it).
I agree with whoever suggested watching a video on setting lifter preload/adjusting valves.
The “EOIC” method is the quickest/easiest way imo.
Some of the videos discuss that.

I just use a remote starter switch to bump the motor over.

I would probably set them at 1/2-3/4 of a turn.

The car was idling fine in the garage then all of a sudden it started to idle funny and started shake back and forth with a knocking noise.

Also, you never said what you found as the reason the motor started running poorly and where the knocking noise was coming from......... you just said you discovered the shaft was in upside down.
That will cause premature wear on the shafts and rockers, pushrods, valve guides, etc...... but the shaft being upside down in and of itself won’t cause the motor to run badly or make a knocking noise.

So, just flipping the shaft over wouldn’t have cured whatever the issue was that caused it to knock and run poorly in the first place.

If you’re confident the lifter preload is set okay, id start looking at some other things..... compression and leak down test would be real high on my list.

 

[Challenger340]

Adjust the Intake lash/lifter preload on any Intake, when it's Exhaust begins to open(starts heading down)....
Adjust the Exhaust lash/lifter preload on any Exhaust, when it's Intake is almost closed again(on it's way back up)....


oxymoron if there ever was one... "hydraulic" Lifter anything, used in the same sentence as "performance" Cam ?

 

[Huskie007]

How tight should the rocker be after shimming them. PRW rockers.. should there be any play at all or nice and tight?

 

[Huskie007]

You’re not being very specific on how you determined which valve to adjust, and when.
I suspect this is where the issue is(if there is indeed an issue with how you did it).
I agree with whoever suggested watching a video on setting lifter preload/adjusting valves.
The “EOIC” method is the quickest/easiest way imo.
Some of the videos discuss that.

I just use a remote starter switch to bump the motor over.

I would probably set them at 1/2-3/4 of a turn.



Also, you never said what you found as the reason the motor started running poorly and where the knocking noise was coming from......... you just said you discovered the shaft was in upside down.
That will cause premature wear on the shafts and rockers, pushrods, valve guides, etc...... but the shaft being upside down in and of itself won’t cause the motor to run badly or make a knocking noise.

So, just flipping the shaft over wouldn’t have cured whatever the issue was that caused it to knock and run poorly in the first place.

If you’re confident the lifter preload is set okay, id start looking at some other things..... compression and leak down test would be real high on my list.

 

[Huskie007]

I adjusted the preload to 3/4 after zero lash and it ran better.. still raced u 1200 and cam back down to 850 rpms.. I have set at 700 through my FITECH go street 400. There was a suttle pop through the rear exhaust on the right side. I shimmed the valves and they are pretty tight.. i wonder if they are too tight and effecting the ability of the valve to open up all the way... hmmm.. it idled now and did not die which makes me think we are going in the right direction..

 

[PRHeads]

“Shimming” the rockers?

You mean for side to side play, or shims under the shafts?

I like to have .015-.020 side clearance, per pair of rockers(total).
If you have no side clearance, that’s not correct.

 

[Huskie007]

Thank you

 

[coloradodave]

What are the IACs on your FiTech handheld device at a warm idle?

 

[Huskie007]

Yes... it did not change when it reach correct operating temp

 

[Huskie007]

If I wanted to select a quality rocker set for a 440 for street, edelbrock heads and lunati streetable roller cam and lifters.. what would be a great choice?

 

[PRHeads]

There’s nothing wrong with what you have(PRW’s).

Anything you bought could need tweaking for proper fit.