roll bars

[bearman]

ok where does the roll weld up to without frame connectors or something under the unibody. came to the racers to help me car is 1964 440. thanks for any kind of help

 

[Frank Mopar]

You sandwich the top plate where the roll bar is welded to with another plate underneath the car. The plates have to be correct size to pass tech which Im not sure of the size

 

[bearman]

ok will look up the rules i must as well do it correctly even if it doesn't see the track.

 

[NOSTRT980]

6"x6"x.125 NHRA rule book, section 21, page 21

 

[bearman]

thanks guys, on the ones that go to the trunk same thing or weld it to something else

 

[Fran Blacker]

thanks guys, on the ones that go to the trunk same thing or weld it to something else

Just watch out if you haven't removed the firebomb under trunk floor.

 

[bearman]

got it will remove it.

 

[383man]

On my 63 I welded the rear bars and the front side bars right over the sub frames for the uni-body with the 6 x 6 plates of course. I figure that will strengthen the car better. On my center bar its welded to the 6 x 6 plates which I welded to the floor out as close to the rocker panels as I could since the rocker panels have the most strength in that area. I also run frame connectors but I don't have my center hoop welded to them. Years ago when I raced my 4-speed Dart I did go through the floor and welded the main hoop to the frame connectors. It was a stick car and I launched it hard with the gas pedal on the floor that's why I welded the main hoop to the connectors. My 63 is an auto street car that I do race sometimes at the track and I will say its very stiff and has held up good the way I have it. But I don't street race and I only race at the track about once a year lately. Ron

 

[PurpleBeeper]

And don't forget you need at least one side bar (driver's) to be track legal faster than 11.50. A removable, swing-out bar is OK.

 

[bearman]

thanks guys will work with what you have gave me. i'll set it up as for track use but like 383 man it might see the track once a year. i am doing frame connectors and torque boxes. i doing it more for that mean look than anything else. won't do the street race thing to many people can be hurt. like that car 383man you got something on my bucket list that i have dreamed about forever you got the centerfold layout what a feeling that must have been.

 

[LemonWedge]

Floor plates do not need to be sandwiched. Just a single plate welded to the interior floor, bar welded to that plate. I rolled up the outer edges of the floor plates to get them right up to the sill in my car. Even if it’s just for looks, you want to make it legal. Once it’s in there, it has to be whether you’re fast enough to need it or not.

 

[dvw]

If your doing subframe connectors, skip the 6x6 plate. Take the time to run 2 outriggers to the rocker. Mount the main hoop on the outriggers. Removing a section of the floor and welding it back in afterwards is way easier. It allows easy access to weld and will save time in the long run.
Doug

 

[Mike67]

Here is my car with the cage exposed , you can see the hoop that comes off of the frame and allows the main hoop down riggers to attach. This cage was certified 8.50

 

[bearman]

Thanks folks will take a look at all the different ways.

 

[6PKRTSE]

Do the frame connectors & out riggers now as mentioned above. My frame connectors & all of the under car bars are round tubing, just removed the floor sections where tube intersect & fitted the floor pieces back in later around the bars. We made mine overkill but it is certified to 7:50's & it is still a street car. Here is some picture showing everything fitted back around the bars as I was painting the cage.

 

[bearman]

Damn that's nice thank you for the pics will do

 

[383man]

Damn that's nice thank you for the pics will do

Bearman I was guessing your car is going to just be a street car since you asked where to weld the bar without frame connectors ? I only wonder because it does make a difference of the cars use as to how far you want to go with the rollbar. Race only cars of course are going to use much more of a rollbar setup as for just racing you would most likey run a full cage with a lot of bars in the proper places. Myself I did not want any more then the average 6 point rollbar since my car is mostly a street car and I did not want to worry of hitting my head on more bars in case of a crash on the street when we don't have a helmet on and I did not want to climb over to many bars also. The 6 and 8 point bars are legal to 10.0 with a stock firewall but of course the better bar or cage the safer and stronger the car also. Just something to consider as to how you plan to use the car. Some guys may still prefer a full cage on their street cars but since you said without frame connectors I was thinking your car will be a street car ? Good luck whatever bar setup you go with. Ron

 

[vintage chromoly]

I agree with 383 man.
Roll bars are cool and work wonders at the track for safety and stiffening the chassis.
On a street car, rollbars are dangerous unless you plan on driving around with a helmet on and a 5 point harness to keep your body located.

 

[dvw]

Here is mine. You don't need to build a full cage to do it this way. My street car 6 point is done the same way. The subframe connectors are a must if it gets a bar in my opinion.
Doug

 

[bearman]

383 man you have been a ton of help and thank you as i'm going to be on the street. just wanted to add a little wonder if you know what i'm saying. everybody has done a great job on theirs and the help from everybody is very helpful. but i'm just going to put plates on the bottom and call it good. thanks to everybody for the input and good luck on everybody's project.