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Rotisserie question 1968 superbee

bigbother14

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Hello everyone hope everyone is having a good New Year’s Eve

I’m currently in the process of moving my 68 superbee to the rotisserie after a long process of sheet metal replacement

Quarters/inner and outer wheel wells/ inner rockers/ rear frame rail sections/ center crossmember/ left front frame rail replacement rear and front floor pans along with Dutchman panel

After all that now it’s ready to go in the rotisserie all my lines are 3/16” ans im afraid that’s after it’s in the rotisserie they may change how likely is that ? Has any one has had this issue before the car is solid now after all that work and would hate for it to shift any advice on this thank you
 
The only issue I found is door fit up/ If your fitting a door shell you want to compensate the weight for all the window hardware.

Also you will want to mount it so the fenders can be attached. I have done an early B body (65) and working on a 69 RR now.

Let me know if you need any mounting pictures. NOTE My Cars did not need any panel replacement's

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The only issue I found is door fit up/ If your fitting a door shell you want to compensate the weight for all the window hardware.

Also you will want to mount it so the fenders can be attached. I have done an early B body (65) and working on a 69 RR now.

Let me know if you need any mounting pictures.

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Hello yes the car is fully assembled sheet metal wide no suspension I’m planning on putting it on there as It sit doors fenders attached to do the body work. Pictures will be greatly appreciated thank you
 
I would make sure the doors are back on it and latched. I had a rotisserie restoration done on my 1964 Polara convertible, and insisted that the doors be back on it, or the door opening be braced by temporarily welding steel braces on. When I went back to check on progress, there is my car on the rack with none of this being done. I went ape$hit on the shop owner, and he said I was a worry-wart. He said he had done lots of E-body convertibles this way, with nothing moving. I told him my car was a foot longer and almost 1,000 pounds heavier. When it came time to reassemble the car, I had a heck of a time getting the driver's door and vent frame to line up with the A-pillar. I am sure that something moved a little.
I know your '68 SuperBee would have the roof and B-pillar to help support it, and maybe that will be enough.
 
I would make sure the doors are back on it and latched. I had a rotisserie restoration done on my 1964 Polara convertible, and insisted that the doors be back on it, or the door opening be braced by temporarily welding steel braces on. When I went back to check on progress, there is my car on the rack with none of this being done. I went ape$hit on the shop owner, and he said I was a worry-wart. He said he had done lots of E-body convertibles this way, with nothing moving. I told him my car was a foot longer and almost 1,000 pounds heavier. When it came time to reassemble the car, I had a heck of a time getting the driver's door and vent frame to line up with the A-pillar. I am sure that something moved a little.
I know your '68 SuperBee would have the roof and B-pillar to help support it, and maybe that will be enough.
I would have lost my temper too being a convertible car. Mines a center post car add stiffness but will still have the doors and fenders attached
 
I would have lost my temper too being a convertible car. Mines a center post car add stiffness but will still have the doors and fenders attached

if your doors (and fenders) are attached, the gaps could move a little while on the rotisserie, but will return to where they were once back on the ground
 
Bullshit! Its gonna move !! And when you install the engine and rear end and drop it on its wheels its gonna move again. Hope for the best - prepare for the worst!
 
I built rotisseries for the past 17 years - over 300 of them for all makes an models. I didn't mount all those vehicles personally but had enough feed back from customers to know. If you support a body at both ends, its gonna move in the middle - guaranteed. Any customer who told me they planned to do sheet metal replacement on a rotisserie was TOLD - not warned - TOLD not to do it. When my own car was done last year the panels were fitted with the car sitting on sawhorses where the rear end and front K would mount. This is as good as you can hope for with a bare shell. The car was then put on the rotisserie for paint. Final fit after paint was done back on the sawhorses. And now that its back on wheels with the drivetrain in it will need some minor tweeking. FWIW, the car doesn't twist, it bends in the middle. And is most noticeable at the door gap.

When a car is on a rotisserie the arms have to be long enough that you can assemble the car on it with the hood and trunk lid in place. Both of these need clearance to open so you need a foot of clearance at each end to the rotisserie. The rotisserie mounts using the bumper bracket holes front and rear. That's a lot of weight hanging in the middle.

In the second photo - note the frame connectors and torque boxes front and rear. Firewall supports were also added when the car was on the sawhorses.

There's my arguement. I rest my case.

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I built rotisseries for the past 17 years - over 300 of them for all makes an models. I didn't mount all those vehicles personally but had enough feed back from customers to know. If you support a body at both ends, its gonna move in the middle - guaranteed. Any customer who told me they planned to do sheet metal replacement on a rotisserie was TOLD - not warned - TOLD not to do it. When my own car was done last year the panels were fitted with the car sitting on sawhorses where the rear end and front K would mount. This is as good as you can hope for with a bare shell. The car was then put on the rotisserie for paint. Final fit after paint was done back on the sawhorses. And now that its back on wheels with the drivetrain in it will need some minor tweeking. FWIW, the car doesn't twist, it bends in the middle. And is most noticeable at the door gap.

When a car is on a rotisserie the arms have to be long enough that you can assemble the car on it with the hood and trunk lid in place. Both of these need clearance to open so you need a foot of clearance at each end to the rotisserie. The rotisserie mounts using the bumper bracket holes front and rear. That's a lot of weight hanging in the middle.

In the second photo - note the frame connectors and torque boxes front and rear. Firewall supports were also added when the car was on the sawhorses.

There's my arguement. I rest my case.

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Very good explanation. The car was build on a frame table now it sits in an auto twirler caster set. Il add some square tubes on door openings to try and prevent bending I don’t have to put it in the rotisserie but will be a lot easer to work and paint the underside. Thanks you for the pictures the way you explained it make tons of sense I’ve always seen mopars on the rotisseries when being restored and I’ve always had that question in my head and now that I’m doing one I need to ask every possible question I can think of good or stupid. Thank you happy new year
 
I do all my welding and panel fitment, then disassemble and on to the rotisserie........ when I get the car down and bolt it back together, I never have an issue...... I think I've had 12 cars on mine
 
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