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Saving another 68 Charger

Well, all was not as well as I hoped with the rear seat pan. Many thin spots and holes so, out it came. I do have one out of my doner car, so I'll be using that. It had a little damage to it since the car was rear ended from the passenger rear, bit of a crease where it didn't belong. Little hammering and a little patience and it's not half bad. I have a rear crossmember on order that I'll be installing before I remove the other frame rail. Thought it might be a good idea since once I remove the other rail the rear end won't be attached to anything but the fenders.
 

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Major surgery however looking very good. Nice work.
 
Been a little while but have some headway. I now have TWO (count them) two solid frame rails. I also have a whole floor, very exciting:hello2:. The shock crossmember made me nervous as far as location, but I was able to take some measurements from the old one I removed with the frame attached to it. I hope it's right:eusa_pray:.There was a bit of grunting and prying to get the crossmember on but, once I lined up the bolt holes it fit great. Problem now is I might be loosing my work space so that might slow me down. I have the car at work where I can store and work on it after hours. The company is now being sold and it will probably have to come home. Can't tell you how excited I am to move the car and all the parts to my garage and basement:angry1:.
 

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Great work your doing! I can hear your excitement reading over the posts, Im a lurker, but im paying attention. Good luck, your going to have a sweet great looking ride....
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Well I haven't done much body work, too busy. I did make it to a swap meet and found some LED lights for my dash among the sea of Chevy Parts. Funny thing is that the spade style bulbs and twist in style were different shades of blue and made half the dash look purple and one side blue. Luckily I bought extra and had to do some swapping of LEDs and bases. I also bought turn signal and Brake warning LED bulbs, they look great.
 

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Those dash lights really are nice, Ive been thinking of doing this myself if i learn a little more on all thats involved. Looks great for sure!
 
I just did some dash light on my '66. I went on e-bay and found an e-bay store selling LED and SMD bulbs for replacing the 194 glass bulbs. I bought I believe 10 in each pack for $.99 and $2.00 in shipping. I tell ya, those SMD bulbs made the dash illuminate so much brighter!! Also bought LED bulbs for my running/turn signal lights.
 
Wow, impressive work. Do yourself a favor and double/triple/quadruple check all critical measurements when you're done. You don't want a problem once the car is painted!
 
Was working on my dash a bit while waiting on some body steel and made my own Ammeter conversion. Only problem was I had to cut the dash up. I used a new aftermarket volt meter and modified the gauge face to make it fit. Looks great. Aside from the pointer being at zero when there is no power you can't tell. I posted some pictures of the gauge at 11, 12, and 13.8 volts. You can definately tell what the battery status is the volt meter is very sensitive.
 

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nice job on the frame rails,floor pans and dash.
 
Conversion looks good. I was thinking about doing the same on my RR. Tossing up the idea of going to a 140 amp one wire delco style. Only question that is stumping me is, do you center the new gauge for the typical charge rate (powermaster 140amp is 13.2v regulated till 2400 rpm in my case) or do you just center up at 12 volts? I bought a 2'' sunpro being it had the same degree of swing as my factory ammeter.
 
Conversion looks good. I was thinking about doing the same on my RR. Tossing up the idea of going to a 140 amp one wire delco style. Only question that is stumping me is, do you center the new gauge for the typical charge rate (powermaster 140amp is 13.2v regulated till 2400 rpm in my case) or do you just center up at 12 volts? I bought a 2'' sunpro being it had the same degree of swing as my factory ammeter.

Hey Prop, Yeah the gauge I used had a lower value of 8 volts and upper of 16 with 12 in the middle so it was perfect. After installing the face I put 12 volts on the meter with a power supply and installed the needle. My gauge was actually a Harbor Freight special. Once I got it apart I found it was a nicely built unit. I wanted the 12 to be centered so I had a reference so if the engine isn't running you know the status of your battery and when it's runnng you know your alternator is at least tryng to charge your battery.
 
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