Second transmission with no luck...

[Mason]

Correct!
You don't want to overfill it!
Keep checking the dipstick!!
Do not overfill!
Let us know what happens!
Merry Christmas!

Alrighty! I'll post what happens tomorrow

 

[biomedtechguy]

Alrighty! I'll post what happens tomorrow

Here's to hoping you post a link to a YouTube video of you smoking the tires!

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Add fluid and let the car idle and warm up. You don't want to try moving immediately. Check the fluid level as you add it, and let the fluid have time to circulate between fills. You can burn up the clutches if the pressure is too low and causes slippage. Take your time to save massive problems. And be careful to not overfill it. That causes other problems. Be patient and careful......

 

[wyrmrider]

all good
Cranky is right in referencing the old trans with a rear pump that could be push started- forget it
No "modern" trans can be checked in park- there is no flow- unless you have one of Gil Younger's Patented shift kits (Transgo) which allows checking in park and more flow in general
Patent has run out so other shift kit vendors have attempted- that's attempted- to copy without doing the engineering for the whole package.
If you over fill get the car level, put a drip pan, and loosen the pan
the overflow will run out
if you have a converter drain - which you should insist on- you could drain that
or one of those sucker pumps that goes in the dipstick
too much oil will not only make a mess out of the vent but will foam and aerate the fluid
ATF-4 is a great fluid for all TF's
only thing better is Citgo Quatrosyn which I would step up and use in an extreme hot or cold application- or for a long duty cycle use application

 

[66Satellite47]

Stock 727 & converter capacity is approximately 9 1/2 quarts. Five is way low resulting in the conditions described. I always start at 8 with my deep pan & add to get around 10-11+. Stock 727 start at 6-7 & add in neutral. I start a little low so not to aerate before the converter fills & move through the gears several times.

 

[Fran Blacker]

This is out of a 66 service manual.

 

[Cranky]

So, there you are. It's at LEAST 3+ quarts low. I'm surprised it even moved! Just hope you didn't fry anything in trying to make it move. It's always a good thing to not try to make something move by giving it more throttle. If it's not moving like it should with light throttle, find out why so that you don't damage things. Good luck.

 

[Ernie ingling]

If torque converter was not filled before install it will be difficult. The 9.5 qt is for drain an fill still have almost 2.5 qt in tc. So 13 qt on a rebuild.best to have car 4 wheels off ground and level operating temp fill run through gears NOTE brake before putting trans in park
Keep doing till full. Drive light accel should shift out of first18-22mph sec 35-40.

 

[Mason]

Thanks for all this information guys I appreciate it alot, so I filled and checked after every quart i poured into the trans and had got up to 9 quarts, what i noticed after is good in a way but not great. When i was switching through the gears i felt a small kick shifting it out of park, into reverse, but heard a really nasty knocking sound coming out, so i just put it into neutral and let it warm up to check the levels again. I look down on the ground and saw a small puddle form under my trans just before the bell housing meets the block. I then put it in drive and felt the little kick but the knocking sounded even worse and the puddle got larger. (I promise I had the fluid level right, right in the middle of OK.) I dont know what to do, very confused.

 

[66Satellite47]

Fran, thanks for the post. A point of explanation for my method vs the FSM, I found with a stock pan starting with 8 Qts got the level well above the "1 pint low" mark. So I start a bit less & add after starting the engine, then going through the gears adding slowly as it fills everything, so as to avoid the aeration that can really screw things up. The OP's problem was clearly a far low ATF condition. Hopefully not enough running time to do any damage. 727's are really tough & take lots of abuse.

 

[wyrmrider]

that click could be driveline slop or maybe leaking check ball in the valve body
there was one we used to leave out but doing so gives full pressure in reverse so you get a big clunk
on the drip
either coming out the overflow or you have a leak

 

[66Satellite47]

If torque converter was not filled before install it will be difficult. The 9.5 qt is for drain an fill still have almost 2.5 qt in tc. So 13 qt on a rebuild.best to have car 4 wheels off ground and level operating temp fill run through gears NOTE brake before putting trans in park
Keep doing till full. Drive light accel should shift out of first18-22mph sec 35-40.

OK, but according to FSM which to my reading says fluid capacity is 18 1/2 Piints including empty converter. Agree drain & fill leaves about 2 +/- Qts in the converter. Just say'in.

 

[Mason]

that click could be driveline slop or maybe leaking check ball in the valve body
there was one we used to leave out but doing so gives full pressure in reverse so you get a big clunk
on the drip
either coming out the overflow or you have a leak

I need to jack my car up and see where this leak is coming from, its alot bigger than you may think, looks like a quart of fluid on the ground and the levels werent overfilled. These knocking noises were hard and hurt to listen to, but would only happen in drive and reverse.

 

[Mason]

I need to jack my car up and see where this leak is coming from, its alot bigger than you may think, looks like a quart of fluid on the ground and the levels werent overfilled. These knocking noises were hard and hurt to listen to, but would only happen in drive and reverse.

If anyone can help me out on this one I'd really appreciate it

 

[1 Wild R/T]

By 85 its some form of 904/999 since the 727 is gone.... A 727 with a large convertor will take 12-13 quarts... A 904 depending on the convertor will be between 9.5 & 11.5 quarts....

 

[1 Wild R/T]

On your "Leak". The engine needs to be running & the trans in neutral when you are adding fluid, otherwise it doesn't get pumped into the torque convertor & the fluid comes out the vent.... Making a huge mess.... Good Luck, you'll get it...

Oh, Have a Merry Christmas!!

 

[66Satellite47]

May be way off target, did you put the trans back in? Are you sure the converter was fully engaged in the pump? Usually if not you can't bolt the trans to the block & still turn the converter freely. If its not engaged properly with the converter into the pump, maybe? Really unlikely but....

 

[Mason]

On your "Leak". The engine needs to be running & the trans in neutral when you are adding fluid, otherwise it doesn't get pumped into the torque convertor & the fluid comes out the vent.... Making a huge mess.... Good Luck, you'll get it...

Oh, Have a Merry Christmas!!

Thanks Wild R/T Merry Christmas! I took a little vid of my trans while i put it in reverse and saw a leak spurt out of a line when i put the throttle down a bit so i found that problem out, but I said screw it and finally pulled into the driveway but the knocking didn't get any louder...real confused on this one because nobody else seems to have my symptom

 

[Mason]

May be way off target, did you put the trans back in? Are you sure the converter was fully engaged in the pump? Usually if not you can't bolt the trans to the block & still turn the converter freely. If its not engaged properly with the converter into the pump, maybe? Really unlikely but....

No I promise the converter is all the way seated because I screwed in a bolt with a wrench on it to keep it from moving out of place, so im positive i set it in all the way.

 

[Mason]

No I promise the converter is all the way seated because I screwed in a bolt with a wrench on it to keep it from moving out of place, so im positive i set it in all the way.

To clarify I had a wrench on it when i was installing it