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Sell me on CalTracs

Cal-tracs are not so great on the street.

We run them on the street and drive everywhere. What problem did you have with them?! Been 10.01 @ 133mph @ 3,700 lbs. on a 275. Zero issues and plant tires hard!

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Thank you. It was alot of work. I think the end result was well worth it. I didn't want a big ole pro stock scoop or a Chevy cowl induction hood at all. I like to be different.
I sent you a PM. Please check it out and get back to me when you can, I'd really appreciate it!
 
It won't hurt you to have them...

but at 13-14 second ETs, it's not necessary

now if you plan on going faster in the future
you can always add them

you can spend the $$$ on something else now
& always do that later
if you have a real serious traction problem
at that level good shocks & tires, maybe new springs
can get the job done relatively easy

in my old Silver 68 RR,
3520# 479cid /727 mvb/custom 4,200 stall/old MT 315/15 Drag radials
I drove them on street for 12k miles, no issues, before I sold it 2007
Easily ran N/A of 9.77 @ 135, Sac. Raceway 100* mid-summer Sat. T&T
& 9.90's at 130+ all damn day
& the best of 8.58 @ 156 on a 300 shot N2O, they work
 
@Budnicks
Do you have any experience with an aftermarket or hand made pinion snubber with factory HD (extra passenger side) leaf springs for the OP's question?
My best friend's 70 Roadrunner in the early 80s, 4 speed:bananadance:, 383, shadetree buildup (aluminum dual plane intake, carb, hydraulic cam (284/.488? you know the thing:p, the hyd one below the 292/.509.. 'street Hemi' grind I think it was commonly called) lifters, headers AND I have to stress-3.91 ring and pinion gears and some good shifting skills...he did well in "non sanctioned" speed contests, and at the track. I saw a number of "other brand" racers fall to the 383 powered RR. That pinion snubber really helped. He ran some BFGs, on Centerline 15" wheels, around 285s or so. 1st gear was a good bit of tire spin but it was moving out, 2nd hit so hard it made the worn detent in the metal shift lever give way to gravity and at night we always knew when he hit 2nd if he was too far away to hear from the left turn signal flashing :)
SOLID mid 13s
 
depends on how much room, ride height etc.
how much spring wrap


many of the adjustable ones don't work or won't fit, too tall
maybe
these 2 newer version from Mancini Racing

MRE Adjustable Threaded Pinion Snubber.jpg


I ran one "sort of" looked like this below on S/S springs,
my car sat much higher
I want to say it was shorter thou IIRC
it was an old Direct Connection part #, no photos or part #'s of it now

right out of MoPar Performance Chassis 9th Edition book
MRE Adjustable Pinion Snubber.jpg
 
Thanks, I'm asking for the OP to benefit and because my buddy really found it helped him a lot.
NOTE to the OP, the following is for a Dana 60!
I got this one from Mancini, and bent it on the first launch to where it was barely rubbing on the yoke. 2nd run it bent more and rubbed so bad I shut down and looked (the first time I couldn't tell for sure) jacked the car up and removed it.
mopar-dana-60-adjustable-pinion-snubber-2.png

Knew then I needed new leaf springs. I had no idea the springs were wrapping up so badly!
This one on the left ("factory style" on the right) looks nicer than the Mopar/Mancini one which looks like most $60 ones that are "out there"
5402822-snubber.jpg

Then there's this one you posted from Mancini that looks nice and has very fine adjustments. I can't find it on the Mancini website, but I assume it's for the 8¾?
MRE Adjustable Threaded Pinion Snubber.jpg

Finally this is the one my friend used on his 8¾ in his Roadrunner that helped him a lot:
MRE Adjustable Pinion Snubber.jpg
 
On my bird. Massive wheel hop with factory springs when to superstock springs Can’t hook up went With the Kail tracks Night and day difference 600hp Stroker If you have Enough power you will need them
 
My 9.5:1 383 powered Super Bee with a 284/484 cam and 3.55 gears, 3 angle valve job 906 heads, factory converter, Hooker Super Comps, Torker intake, and hybrid 680/750 Holley was a mid 13 second car.

Shouldn't be terribly hard to get your slightly heavier Charger there without too much exotic equipment.
With a similar engine build, the 3.91 gear alone might do it.

This is encouraging because my set up is fairly similar to yours with the 3.91 gears, with more compression and (IMO) better heads Edelbrock RPM performer, better converter. I've taken a bit of weight off the car but still expect it to be 3100ish. Sadly, altitude is my killer up here in Denver. That's 7-8-tenth's right off the bat.
 
This is encouraging because my set up is fairly similar to yours with the 3.91 gears, with more compression and (IMO) better heads Edelbrock RPM performer, better converter. I've taken a bit of weight off the car but still expect it to be 3100ish. Sadly, altitude is my killer up here in Denver. That's 7-8-tenth's right off the bat.
No offense meant, but unless you have taken a bunch, and I mean A BUNCH, of weight out of your 68 charger, it will be closer to 4100, than 3100.
My stock 440 roadrunner is 3700, very likely lighter than your charger, and some fairly serious lightening got my 62 savoy (supposed to be the lightest b-body) down to 3250. Minor lightening of a 68 charger smallblock automatic? I'd guess 3650-up.
 
JMO

Get some clamps and decent shocks. What you would have spent on caltracs, spend some of it on a REALLY good converter for the trans if auto...
 
No offense meant, but unless you have taken a bunch, and I mean A BUNCH, of weight out of your 68 charger, it will be closer to 4100, than 3100.
My stock 440 roadrunner is 3700, very likely lighter than your charger, and some fairly serious lightening got my 62 savoy (supposed to be the lightest b-body) down to 3250. Minor lightening of a 68 charger smallblock automatic? I'd guess 3650-up.
33 IMP is spot on, My 68 Charger is 4100lbs Race weight without a hood, now my car has AC, OD trans D60 rear,no way to get even close to 3100 unless you build a tube chassis race car with lots of fiberglass parts,
 
No offense meant, but unless you have taken a bunch, and I mean A BUNCH, of weight out of your 68 charger, it will be closer to 4100, than 3100.
My stock 440 roadrunner is 3700, very likely lighter than your charger, and some fairly serious lightening got my 62 savoy (supposed to be the lightest b-body) down to 3250. Minor lightening of a 68 charger smallblock automatic? I'd guess 3650-up.

They come factory 3505 lbs? I've shed a solid 500. Put 230 back in for me that's where I'm getting my number. Is that factory number wrong?

And no offense taken at all lol. She's just as fat as I am haha I am very curious to know what it weighs now though lol Excited to get it on the scales soon.
 
They come factory 3505 lbs? I've shed a solid 500. Put 230 back in for me that's where I'm getting my number. Is that factory number wrong?

And no offense taken at all lol. She's just as fat as I am haha I am very curious to know what it weighs now though lol Excited to get it on the scales soon.
Factory weight is wrong
 
Factory weight may be for a stripper 225 or 318 car with a 7 1/4 rear, column auto and a bench seat.

3100 is WAY light for any 68-70 B body and ridiculously light for a 68-70 Charger.

IIRC my non-lightened 70 Bee was right at 3800 with the AC compressor gone, no carpet, and a factory bench.
 
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I was able to get my old all iron hemi to launch well with caltracs and be super consistent and reliable. Drove it on the street as well!

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We run them on the street and drive everywhere. What problem did you have with them?! Been 10.01 @ 133mph @ 3,700 lbs. on a 275. Zero issues and plant tires hard!

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What is your weight bias front to rear? Had lots of problems getting a big block Challenger to be consistent that had a lousy weight bias and finally just installed ladders and ding ding ding.
 
What is your weight bias front to rear? Had lots of problems getting a big block Challenger to be consistent that had a lousy weight bias and finally just installed ladders and ding ding ding.
My Challenger is 3760 in full race/street trim at 54%. Depending how much power you are making. Today's higher horsepower vehicles are adding more nose weight to help keep the front ends down from power wheel stands.

IMG_11881.jpg IMG_11861.jpg
 
What is your weight bias front to rear? Had lots of problems getting a big block Challenger to be consistent that had a lousy weight bias and finally just installed ladders and ding ding ding.
52/48.
 
I feel this is necessary. I have nothing against caltracs or assassins,they both work excellent! I LIKE them! But....
There is a performance threshold where they become necessary, and that threshold is very nearly the same as ladder bars or four link. As above, a low 11s or faster, car can use them, and quite probably go quicker.
But the op is just trying to hook a 14/13 sec car. There are better/cheaper solutions to hook it up, and I would use the extra money on a better converter.
But that's just me.....
 
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