Shade Tree Mechanic Edelbrock Install?

[67GTX440]

What I know about carburetors I could engrave on the head of a pin with a jackhammer! Here are pictures of the Edelbrock on my 67 GTX. Starts okay except have to run at 1,500 RPM's for 60 seconds or so before it will idle and you can shift it into drive or reverse. Run's fine when warmed up.

The obvious mickey mouse install is what I wonder about. A wire on the left side that looks like it is holding the choke open. The coat hangar and tape on the right side in addition to the flopping washer. The guy that sold me the car told me I needed to find a good mechanic like he had (presumably the guy that installed the carb). I got the original Carter AFB with the car that was removed and sent off to be rebuilt, but never reinstalled. The rebuild was probably 10 years ago.

I have carburetor rebuild shops in my area that rebuild carbs off the car, but none that specialized in carburetors that also installs and tunes. They seem to act like coat hangar and bailing wire is appropriate for a carb install on a 67 and that some linkage is just not available. Question is, am I missing something from the linkage, if so what, and where can I get it?

Also, should I reinstall the rebuilt Carter carb or work with the Edelbrock. If the car starts and runs after warmed up is that considered "dialed in" in spite of the bailing wire?

Pictures tell the story.

 

[YY1]

Looks like you need a throttle cable. What's under that tape?

Also looks like you have a manual choke, but no cable.

Washer could be smaller.

 

[tpodwdog]

if you shift into reverse or drive immediately after starting.... and it just sits there....the problem IS NOT YOUR CARBURETOR.....(other than the gypsy rigged throttle cable...and no choke)..YOU NEED TO START YOUR CAR....AND LET IT RUN IN NEUTRAL.... not park....for about 15 seconds before you put into drive. you have torque converter leakdown and the torque converter must be full before anything happens. its nothing to be concerned with....all my automatic Mopars do this!

if youre saying it wont idle at all until revving it to 1500 for 60 seconds....you need a choke cable on that thing and have the fast idle adjusted...(controlled by the missing choke mechanism)

 

[WP29440SE]

the coat hanger and electrical tape is just sexy

 

[RustyRatRod]

If they did not have a manual choke cable, then tying the choke open was the best thing to do. As for the electrical tape and coat hanger, I cannot be as nice. At any rate, you should get a manual choke cable kit and that will aid your cold startup tremendously. I would also put a proper throttle cable on it. Lokar makes some nice ones. The stock one will work well, too.

 

[1970GTX]

There is a carb linkage adaptor available from edelbrock for BB mopar applications, part # 1481. It moves the carb linkage rod back closer to the firewall so that your throttle cable reaches it properly and so no need for the coat hanger/electrical tape setup. It messes with your auto trans. kickdown which will need some adjustments afterward and there is kickdown extension from Edelbrock part # 8003 or 8004 depending on the diameter of the kickdown rod. The car won't idle properly because you have no choke. There is an electric choke kit available from Edelbrock, part #1478, or you can just install a manual choke cable. My '70 GTX has no choke and It takes a minute or 2 to idle, but where I live, ambient Temps range from 60 to 90 degrees during the spring and summer, so I don't really need a choke. And I don't drive it late fall or winter.

 

[pistol_grip_polara]

If you want to put a choke cable on, that would work, if you have a place you want to mount it in or under your dash. If it was me, i would get the electric choke conversion kit that edelbrock sells. Price wise, its a little more then a cable, but worth the time and money in my opinion.

Your throttle cable can be fixed using edelbrock parts as well. Edelbrock carbs are made to be "universal" in other words will bolt directly on a sbc.. They make a throttle extension piece that goes on there, and your cable should work.

An edelbrock 1481 and an edelbrock 1478 would fix it. Both come with instructions and your basic mechanic should be able to accomplish it.

 

[Sonny Black]

might help?lokar cable & manual choke
View attachment 003.jpg

 

[67GTX440]

Thanks for the great responses. I think there is supposed to be a retaining clip on the outside of the washer so the return spring is not what is holding it on. A new throttle cable and manual choke cable seem to be in order and the easiest solution to clean things up without me messing something up in the process. How did the original Carter AFB choke work? It must not have been electric or had a choke cable either.

 

[YY1]

There's a choke "well" on the intake, and a bi-mettalic spring operated the choke.

Choke "pull off" is the unofficial term.

 

[67GTX440]

Then you would love where they spot welded the outside door handle rod to the latch to avoid buying a $4 clip. I have to remember that in the backwoods there are no auto parts stores and when these parts started to break there were no reproductions or internet. LOL

 

[kidmopar]

i got the throttle lever adapter if u need one

 

[GTX MATT]

Buy the adapter so that everything works with the stock Chrysler throttle cable and linkage, its only a few bucks.

Buy a new throttle cable, they're like 50 bucks or something but you need it at this point. Throttle linkage isn't something to monkey around with.

The linkage setup is very concerning, in addition to the fact that I'm going to guess that the throttle pressure linkage is probably not properly adjusted either. It looks very incorrect, but then again it isn't contacting the stud on the carb where it should (stud is more forward than normal because of the lack of the adaptor). Luckily for you the guy who did this saved the original throttle cable/throttle pressure stud. You will need to put that in the adapter.

The manual choke Edelbrocks, from what I've seen, are decent carbs. The electric choke carbs are junk, and take a lot to dial them in. After poking around on Eddys website one day they even tell you that the electric chokes carbs are calibrated for economy, while the manual choke ones are calibrated for performance.

The wired open choke isn't too big of a concern, and down in Fl you should be able to run the car cold with no choke without issue. The fact that it will not run tells me that you probably need to do some tuning. Most likely the car would like more ignition advance at idle (15+ degrees). From the looks of the carb, it looks like the person who last set the timing did it "by ear."

Do you know what carb it is? I've been very impressed with the 800 Thunder Series AVS carb from Eddy. And do you know if its a Performer Series (AFB) or Thunder Series (AVS)?

 

[67GTX440]

Under the tape is a second hook in the coat hanger that hooks into the back side of the metal piece on the end of the original throttle cable.
Sweet!

- - - Updated - - -

Buy the adapter so that everything works with the stock Chrysler throttle cable and linkage, its only a few bucks.

Buy a new throttle cable, they're like 50 bucks or something but you need it at this point. Throttle linkage isn't something to monkey around with.

The linkage setup is very concerning, in addition to the fact that I'm going to guess that the throttle pressure linkage is probably not properly adjusted either. It looks very incorrect, but then again it isn't contacting the stud on the carb where it should (stud is more forward than normal because of the lack of the adaptor). Luckily for you the guy who did this saved the original throttle cable/throttle pressure stud. You will need to put that in the adapter.

The manual choke Edelbrocks, from what I've seen, are decent carbs. The electric choke carbs are junk, and take a lot to dial them in. After poking around on Eddys website one day they even tell you that the electric chokes carbs are calibrated for economy, while the manual choke ones are calibrated for performance.

The wired open choke isn't too big of a concern, and down in Fl you should be able to run the car cold with no choke without issue. The fact that it will not run tells me that you probably need to do some tuning. Most likely the car would like more ignition advance at idle (15+ degrees). From the looks of the carb, it looks like the person who last set the timing did it "by ear."

Do you know what carb it is? I've been very impressed with the 800 Thunder Series AVS carb from Eddy. And do you know if its a Performer Series (AFB) or Thunder Series (AVS)?

The Edelbrock is a 1407. Not sure what that means outside of 700 CFM. I ordered a Lokar universal cable and a 1407 electric choke from Summit. Hopefully, that will eliminate the coat hangar and bailing wire and allow the car to start and run a little better when cold. The car may be running a bit rich. My wife keeps telling me the car is stinking up the garage when I have to let it idle for 45 seconds or so to put it in reverse. I keep telling her that is just the smell of a carburetored big block. I love the smell of a big block in the morning - it smells like VICTORY!

 

[Meep-Meep]

To get rid of the Mickey Mouse cable install you need the Chrysler linkage adapter. This will also put the throttle stud in the correct place for throttle pressure and cable travel. The washer is correct but it can be sized a bit better!

http://store.edelbrock.com/1843chryslerthrottleleveradapter.aspx

 

[oldbee]

C'mon guys---Help him out.. Driving away in 20-30 secs. is no big problem... Choke spring tension & choke pull-off is all you need. If your carb is set up right, it'll go almost right away. It's hard to explain without physically seeing and touching the choke plate. Used to have good luck setting up carb's for good running & start-up when cold.Choke pull-off needs to be about 1/8" gap when running..Choke tension is a whole 'nuther ballgame. Experience is the only way to describe it. Fairly stiff?