Shallowest water pump/radiator combo for 64 Dodge?

[saleenmav]

Tried some searching but didn’t find anything. Wanting to add some room between my water pump and radiator so I can run the Dorman 620-118 electric fan. Anyone who has a 64 big block Dodge Polara knows that Mother Mopar did us no favors and left hardly any room in front of the motor, but loads of room in front of the radiator support. Why couldn’t they have just shifted the radiator support forward a couple inches!!! I’ve currently got the stock radiator, which sits off the support amount an inch, and a factory water pump. There is only about 3” of clearance currently. Any recommendations on shallow water pumps and radiators? It’s just a mild 440 that will be street driven as a daily driver. I’m in the Savannah, GA area, so it gets pretty hot and traffic can suck, hence my desire for an electric fan. I’ll also be adding AC, so the dual speed Dorman fan is pretty attractive. Thanks

 

[dryheat]

If you are installing AC you'll be adding a condenser coil in front of your radiator. Mount your electric fans to that.

 

[saleenmav]

If you are installing AC you'll be adding a condenser coil in front of your radiator. Mount your electric fans to that.

Ideally I want to stick with a puller since they work better. Worst case scenario, I’ll make it a pusher but trying to avoid it.

 

[diesel_lv]

Is that the Lincoln MkVIII replacement fan? If so, it is extremely deep. If I had room, I would definitely use it. I have 3.25 inches between my Pulleys and radiator core. I tried many 12" n 13" dual fan combos that cooled great at idle n slow speed but, in my car, created a high pressure zone in front of radiator w aluminum shroud at high speeds n would overheat. Now waiting on a CCI-1226 dual 12" w vacuum molded plastic shroud. Not cheap!! But money back guarantee that it will cool my 496 in 120° weather at idle and on the interstate. It's 2-5/8" max thickness. My fans never shut off in the summer due to need for a/c and 120° temps. You're definitely gonna need good cooling in GA for the a/c if you have it.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I have a better option for you... Swap the K member to a 66-70 style (Preferably 68-70), it'll move the engine back 1 3/4" which not only gives you radiator room but also improves the balance & handling of the car...

 

[diesel_lv]

http://brucerichards.com/markviii.htm
Here's a great link for the MKVIII fan. The smallest depth it can be trimmed to is 4.5".

 

[dryheat]

I have a better option for you... Swap the K member to a 66-70 style (Preferably 68-70), it'll move the engine back 1 3/4" which not only gives you radiator room but also improves the balance & handling of the car...

Interesting idea ... how would you recommend dealing with the transmission mount?

 

[saleenmav]

Is that the Lincoln MkVIII replacement fan? If so, it is extremely deep. If I had room, I would definitely use it. I have 3.25 inches between my Pulleys and radiator core. I tried many 12" n 13" dual fan combos that cooled great at idle n slow speed but, in my car, created a high pressure zone in front of radiator w aluminum shroud at high speeds n would overheat. Now waiting on a CCI-1226 dual 12" w vacuum molded plastic shroud. Not cheap!! But money back guarantee that it will cool my 496 in 120° weather at idle and on the interstate. It's 2-5/8" max thickness. My fans never shut off in the summer due to need for a/c and 120° temps. You're definitely gonna need good cooling in GA for the a/c if you have it.

It is. I think I can get close with getting a radiator that fits flush with the support, and a somewhat shallower water pump. Even the electric ones seem like they’re just as deep if not deeper than stock.

 

[saleenmav]

I have a better option for you... Swap the K member to a 66-70 style (Preferably 68-70), it'll move the engine back 1 3/4" which not only gives you radiator room but also improves the balance & handling of the car...

I need to measure my other Polara. I have the Gerst front end in it, but I believe I got the newer B body version. This could be a good idea.

 

[diesel_lv]

It is. I think I can get close with getting a radiator that fits flush with the support, and a somewhat shallower water pump. Even the electric ones seem like they’re just as deep if not deeper than stock.

With a shallower water pump, you have to contend w the pulley lining up. If you can get the MkVIII fan in there, they are great. I wish I could've. What kind of pulley setup are you using, conventional v-belt, serpentine, serpentine w reverse rotation water pump?

 

[saleenmav]

With a shallower water pump, you have to contend w the pulley lining up. If you can get the MkVIII fan in there, they are great. I wish I could've. What kind of pulley setup are you using, conventional v-belt, serpentine, serpentine w reverse rotation water pump?

I’m currently only running an alternator, so I was just gonna run a standard v belt off the crank if I switched to electric. If I keep a mechanical pump it’s really no issue moving the alternator back to get the pulleys to line up. I actually had to adjust the alignment slightly on the Tuff Stuff alternator I installed already. I believe some of the later A/C car big blocks may have had a shallower water pump, so there shouldn’t be an issue with getting the correct pulleys to line everything up. At least that’s what I’ve seen mentioned in a couple places.

 

[Dodge 330]

I had the saddles moved back 1/2" by a local radiator shop on an OE radiator in my '63 so I could install a short stub clutch fan.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Interesting idea ... how would you recommend dealing with the transmission mount?

Never done it myself but from what I understand from a few local guys who've done it you just turn the trans mount 180 degrees & everything fits... Then you need to shorten the driveshaft & the exhaust....

 

[saleenmav]

Just for reference, the shallowest you can really trim this fan is around 4 9/16”. That leaves about 1/16” between the fan center and the radiator. No clue why that one site was showing you could cut it to 4 1/4”. Still working with the math to see if I can squeeze it in, but so far it looks like I can only get my clearance to about 1/4” short. I’m thinking I can shave the water pump hub down an 1/8”, so that would get me down to an 1/8”, but I’m having a hard time finding that last little bit.

*I think I may have it, maybe. If you pull the fan blade off you can remove spacers to recess the fan against the motor. You still have the fan hub sticking out about a half inch, but that should be able to be clearanced into some cooling fins on the radiator. That would gain about 3/16” that could be cut off the shroud, bringing the shroud to motor depth down to 4 3/8”. With the shallow water pump and the thinnest radiator that Champion offers, I think it will just clear with some work on the water pump hub. I’m gonna order some of the stuff and try it, just because. I’ll update my progress once everything comes in.

 

[Redsawacs]

What was the solution to this one? Did you consider a larger radiator?