Slant 6 timing

[fwi]

Searched all over, including slant6 forum, too many discrepancies and opinions...I just want to know what would be a correct timing setting for a stock 225 slant 6.....It is also running rather rich as evidenced by very black (almost new) NGK plugs which were installed a couple of months ago by the guy I bought the car from.

 

[Darter6]

With today's gas set it at 8* advanced no more than 10* and you will be good. It's not a Hot Rod (yet)Stone Stock. As far as the carb goes, check the carb base for looseness.The screws that hold the base to carb center may be loose.And check the carb to manifold bolts. Very common on Slants. Then play with a fresh air filter and adjust the air mixture screw for most vacuum and adjust idle screw how you like. You may not ever get away from the black plugs with everyday driving.

 

[khryslerkid]

I'm thinking this is for your 1964. The FSM is showing 2 1/2 degrees Before Top Dead center. Plug the vacuum advance. .017 to .023 on the point setting.

Sounds like your carb is running rich. They were known for bad accelerator pumps.

 

[69a100]

Is the motor stock? My van has a stock motor that I upgraded with a super6 and weber 32/36 carb. I'm guessing that mine is around 8 or 9*, anything much more then that and I have pinging with 87 and a stock curve on the dist. during accel.
The consciences seems to be that around 10*, the /6 is the happiest. Hope this helps?

 

[727]

I bought a truck with a barely running /6. There wasn't a way to get the timing just right. I got it run better by opening up the distributor bolt hole hold down notch. Finally changed the timing chain and it set everything back to normal. The engine runs great now.

 

[fwi]

After checking all the plugs (NGK R-4), gapping them at .037, removing the plug washers, put everything back together and.......
Now I got bigger problems!
Turn the key to start......nothing happens, no starter, no click.

Checked all pertinent wires, all seem good (battery is brand new and I have power to everything else).
So i jumped the solenoid and started it, am thinking the culprit could be the starter relay, any advice is always appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Darter6]

Yep,my 68 was hit or miss, finally changed the relay.There are 2 different ones.One for stick and one for automatic. You have been thinking about putting a automatic in it so you may want to buy one for the automatic. It has a extra spade terminal for the neutral safety wire that will hook to the switch on the tranny.

 

[khryslerkid]

After checking all the plugs (NGK R-4), gapping them at .037, removing the plug washers, put everything back together

37 seems a bit wide? Why did you remove the plug washers?
What year engine do you have? Electronic ignition or points?

 

[fwi]

37 seems a bit wide? Why did you remove the plug washers?
What year engine do you have? Electronic ignition or points?

Lots of mentions of it being a necessity on the Slant 6 forum.
Believe the engine is a stock 64 with points.....can't really read the little pad behind the coil, only the block# 2463430-3. Distributor with points.
They also recommended the .037 gap, why, should I go smaller?
I will have to time it, as it is hard to start and runs very rough at first.

 

[khryslerkid]

I've never heard of removing the compression washers. That's there to seal the plug to the head.

.035 is the recommended gap on the N-16Y Champion plug that's in the FSM. Don't think you'll find that plug but here's a cross reference. It's a 14mm plug with a 3/4" reach. I can't find the plug you mentioned.
https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/N16Y

We use to set the timing mark on the front to TDC then pull the distributor. Set the points on the work bench in a vice. Every one ran like a sewing machine when tuned. Miss working on those Tower of Powers!

@Slantsixdan is your /6 guru on here!

 

[fwi]

I've never heard of removing the compression washers. That's there to seal the plug to the head.

.035 is the recommended gap on the N-16Y Champion plug that's in the FSM. Don't think you'll find that plug but here's a cross reference. It's a 14mm plug with a 3/4" reach. I can't find the plug you mentioned.
https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/N16Y

We use to set the timing mark on the front to TDC then pull the distributor. Set the points on the work bench in a vice. Every one ran like a sewing machine when tuned. Miss working on those Tower of Powers!

@Slantsixdan is your /6 guru on here!

Slant 6 Dan's post:
Posted: Thu May 26, 2011 12:20 pm
Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 23098
Location: North America
Car Model*:
14mm is the thread size, not the hex size. The plugs you're taking out are 13/16" hex. The ones you should put in (NGK ZFR5N, stock number 3459) are 5/8" hex. Use a spark plug socket (w/rubber insert), not just a regular deep-well, or you're liable to break off a spark plug and cause yourself much more hassle than it would be to get and use the correct socket in the first place. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread.

Whether you follow or ignore the plug recommendation, remember to remove the metal ring washers from the plugs before installing.

Champion is junk from America. Autolite is junk from China. And if you've fouled NGK #4s, there's something the matter -- #4 is hotter than called for.

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[Darter6]

I too don't remove the washer. BUT I do understand the reason is, the spark plug tube that is aluminum makes the seal.Also some believe that (though minimal) it allows the plug deeper in the combustion chamber taking up more space increasing compression. But again this is just what I have read over the years. Take it for what it's worth.To me it's not much.
And not to take anything away from Dan but everybody has their own way of doing things.

 

[danf_fl]

After checking all the plugs (NGK R-4), gapping them at .037, removing the plug washers, put everything back together and.......
Now I got bigger problems!
Turn the key to start......nothing happens, no starter, no click.
View attachment 761934 Checked all pertinent wires, all seem good (battery is brand new and I have power to everything else).
So i jumped the solenoid and started it, am thinking the culprit could be the starter relay, any advice is always appreciated. Thanks.

Reseat the connectors that slide off and on.

 

[fwi]

UPDATE...... installed new starter relay, cranks over fine, but now it won't start!
Plenty of fuel getting to the carb, sounds like there is no spark, its not even trying to fire!. Yes, I checked all the plug wires, coil wire.....what have I missed?