Small Steering and Suspension Install Questions

[JR_Charger]

Just a few minor questions as I go along -

I've currently got the idler arm bolted in like this, with the nut on the bottom, in the 72 CHARGER. The FSM shows it installed like this for Polara/Monaco, but the FSM shows it installed with the nut on the top for Dart/Charger/Challenger/Coronet. Is there a good reason for installing it with the nut on the top in the Charger? It's going to be easier to install/remove the cotter pin from the nut with the nut on the bottom.

This flat area had a finish similar to the stub axle (before rust got it). I scrubbed off the loose rust, treated it with rust rformer, and painted over it. Is there any problem with that? The paint can't be worse than the rust, but Chrysler didn't paint it and perhaps there's a reason they didn't.

I didn't bother to mask these machined surfaces the balljoints rub against either - it's no trouble to remove the paint but I figure it will wear off in use -

 

[pnora]

Idler arm nut is your choice. [Corrected my post as I said pitman] Myself on the bottom. Logic says if the nut fell off the bolt would stay in. Paint on the knuckles is fine. Mine are powder coated.

 

[JR_Charger]

Pitman arm nut is your choice. Myself on the bottom. Logic says if the nut fell off the bolt would stay in

That's another good reason to put the nut on the bottom. A really, really good reason. I wonder why the FSM shows it on top?

 

[pnora]

That's another good reason to put the nut on the bottom. A really, really good reason. I wonder why the FSM shows it on top?

Dont even ask that question. The engineer was most likely stuck in the punishment corner standing on his head when he wrote the manual.

 

[dvw]

Nut won't ever fall off. Do you worry about ball jint nuts, rod bolts, balancer bolt falling off? No, because you tighten them properly. How ever if you put the bolt in from the top and have to swap the idler arm in the future? The exhaust may be in the way. Then you'll either have to remove the part in question or cut the bolt. Been there.
Doug

 

[JR_Charger]

You must not have run an exhaust manifold in a looooong time

 

[JR_Charger]

How do you get the upper ball joint nut torqued to 100 ft/lbs? I can only use one arm on the torque wrench because I've got to hold the spindle with the other. I've got the nut on to the point where I could put the cotter pin in, but it's not up to 100 ft/lbs yet.

 

[kiwigtx]

View attachment 1420465

How do you get the upper ball joint nut torqued to 100 ft/lbs? I can only use one arm on the torque wrench because I've got to hold the spindle with the other. I've got the nut on to the point where I could put the cotter pin in, but it's not up to 100 ft/lbs yet.

I might be wrong, but I was told to only tighten suspension components bolts and nuts when the actual weight of the car is on the joints.

 

[hunt2elk]

I might be wrong, but I was told to only tighten suspension components bolts and nuts when the actual weight of the car is on the joints.

I don't think that applies to ball joints.

 

[hunt2elk]

View attachment 1420465

How do you get the upper ball joint nut torqued to 100 ft/lbs? I can only use one arm on the torque wrench because I've got to hold the spindle with the other. I've got the nut on to the point where I could put the cotter pin in, but it's not up to 100 ft/lbs yet.

It is easier if the shock is not in there. Just twist the spindle clockwise until it bottoms, and then torque.

 

[ckessel]

You get it as tight as you can using box wrench or socket/breaker bar while making sure you can get the cotter pin into a nut slot while you are grunting. Cotter pins are VERY IMPORTANT. I have come across some vehicles where the doofus who worked on it missed that. Ball joints, tie rod ends, Pittman arm, idler arm.

 

[eldubb440]

I might be wrong, but I was told to only tighten suspension components bolts and nuts when the actual weight of the car is on the joints.

more so for the rubber bushings......the weight of the car will put a loaded twist on them if they are tightened prematurely

 

[JR_Charger]

You get it as tight as you can using box wrench or socket/breaker bar while making sure you can get the cotter pin into a nut slot while you are grunting. Cotter pins are VERY IMPORTANT. I have come across some vehicles where the doofus who worked on it missed that. Ball joints, tie rod ends, Pittman arm, idler arm.

It's tight enough that the cotter pin will go in nicely. Next time I look at it I'm going to dial down the torque on the wrench and see where the nut currently is. For all I know it could be sitting at 98 ft/lbs.

At least it's not a torque-to-yield bolt.

 

[RemCharger]

Turn the spindle to where it stops turning.
Then lay the torque to it.

 

[JR_Charger]

I'm pleased (and mildly embarassed) to say it wasn't a big problem after all. I was ratcheting back too far with the torque wrench after each pull, which meant I had to reach in further, which kept me from getting my foot into a good position on the spindle to brace it. When I only went back a couple clicks, I could brace better and easily pulled it up to 95 ft lbs. I could have gone further, but the castle nut lined up with the hole for the cotter pin at 95 on the driver's side and 93-ish on the passenger side. I suspect that is close enough.

Here's where I'm at. I'm temporarily putting the drums back on, even though it is silly -

It'll take 5k to get the brakes I want on the front, and the rims and tires for the big brake kit. I'd rather get it rolling with the drums and 14" rims and send it off to paint and body like that, then tempt thieves with big rims and brakes. At this point it doesn't seem like a lot of work to do a brake conversion or swap out a spindle, and you know what - it's not such a hard thing to have to ride a 72 Charger on fresh drums and 14" slotted mags at a time when many are struggling along with beat up 90's cars that weren't the good ones back then. I'll survive.

 

[JR_Charger]

Installing the steering links now - I assembled them a year ago and forgot what's what. One of the links comes straight out, and the other has a slight drop to it. I believe the link with the drop is the inner tie rod end, correct?

I've got the factory steering links handy - one of them is set an inch shorter than the other. Looking at the reference pics I took, the short one appears be the driver's side link. Does that sound right?

While I'm on the subject, let me make sure I didn't screw up the center link - the end with the biggest dip goes on the driver's side, right?

 

[JR_Charger]

Maybe the best way to identify the tie rod ends is to ask which direction the adjustor sleeve should be turned to increase/decrease the length of the link? Of course this will depend on whether one is facing the front or back of the car. It looks like it would typically be done from the rear facing forward, so should turning the tie rod up lengthen or shorten the link?

 

[JR_Charger]

Went to torque down all the nuts along the center link, and couldn't get to 40 ft/lbs before the castle nut was past the point where the prongs would catch the cotter pin. I suppose lining the nuts up with the cotter pin holes is fine?

 

[RemCharger]

Torque them to required value, then keep going to the next available slot

 

[JR_Charger]

The cotter pin is going to be under the nut entirely.