All of these bolt on EFI kits have all kinds of issues from all of the brand names. We install hundreds of different brands every year. Mainly, it is all the Chinese electrical components/ECU's that cause issues and all the back orders with many kits.
I'm sorry but I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with that.
I respond to a lot of these threads because the prevailing attitude seems to blame the electronic aspect of the systems when the real issue is operator or installer error. 9 times out of 10 problems arise because of half-assed installation practices and corner cutting. Go on the Holley website where they offer factory re-manufactured parts at discounted prices.
They actually say that 99% of the time there is nothing wrong with the parts that get returned - what does that tell you? This is not an EFI-specific problem - guys have been ignoring instructions and shooting themselves in the foot by doing random crap for decades.
Again - ensure the car is or at least was running well. If you had/have exhaust leaks, intake leaks, misfires, fuel leaks, dim lights, etc. EFI will not cure those ills, it will only magnify them. Also make sure the alternator is putting out enough juice to keep the fuel pump running where it needs to be, especially with the lights on.
If all that checks out, go back to square one and start the install again. Follow the instructions to a T paying particular attention to how the thing is wired. Make sure nothing 'important' is just shoved into a crusty fuse box cavity or spliced into the radio power wire and covered with half a roll of electric tape. Ensure all the connections are terminated properly. I always suggest re-wiring a car before any EFI install. If that's not in the cards, at least make sure all the main wiring is in good shape and there are no burned out bulkhead connectors or what have you.
If/when the car will start, run and stay running, verify the static timing. After that, drive the car
without doing anything else and see what happens. Save for verifying the timing, there should be no need to do any sort of tuning at that point. I don't know what adjustments are being made that could cause the thing to shut off the so solution to that is to do nothing. During the test drive, take a data log and look it over for any clues. (the installer is using a laptop to do that right?)
If you or your guy can get to that point without problems, you should be good to go. Only then should you try to upload a known good or custom tune and use that as your starting point for the self learn process. If the new tune does not work, you can go back to the wizard tune and try again. Just understand the generic start up tune is just a baseline to get the car running. Learn to build your own ignition and fuel tables in the software and you will have the car running as sharp as a razor in no time.
I know there will be replies that say I'm talking out my *** and that there's no need to do all that so decide for yourself. I've done a few of them and have been through the sorting out process so I have some idea of what it takes for a successful install. The advertising makes it seem like a piece of cake but that presumes several things; the car runs good, the wiring is good, you're not scared of wiring, electronics or software, you (or the installer) are willing to follow instructions exactly and do whatever it takes to ensure that things are done in a 'best practice' approach, the fuel and charging systems are sufficient and ultimately as the end user you're willing to put the time and effort into optimizing the whole thing.
If you don't want to get involved with any of that, keep your money in your pocket and stay with the carburetor.
