Sniper Efi 68 Charger

[Pool Fixer]

Good afternoon all!

Im in the phase 1 of installing a Holley Sniper Efi on my 68 Charger with a 440. Before I even take the carb off, I decided to tackle the fuel system first. I bought a Tanks, Inc Efi ready tank from summit, the one that comes with float style sender and the pump. I researched, measured, and installed the pump and sender in tank and it's on my bench at the moment. Of course I yanked the old tank and realized that the new one didn't come with the filler neck grommet/gasket and that my OE 1968 fillter neck was trashed, flaking away inside. So... I ordered up those parts along with the to of tank pad I forgot. While I'm waiting, I wanted to test it. I temp jumpted the pump and it sounds good.

I ohm'd the fuel sender and it reads 80 ohms empty and 10 ohms full (flipped the tank over to simulate full) I've read that mopar factory gauges are 10-70 ohms. I don't feel like it's a problem but I wanted some other opinions.

I'll update this as I go, maybe my experience can help someone else.

 

[snakeoil24]

Your doing this the right way. In tank pumps are the best since their submerged also does the tnk come with any type of bafflling? If not their is a sponge like material from aeromotive you can use. BTw will you have a relay for the pump and a safety cut off switch for loss of oil pressure??

 

[Pool Fixer]

Has its own build in tray/sump. I’m going a little overboard, sticking my camera in it to make sure the pump looks ok and the float is in the right spot

 

[Pool Fixer]

i installed an aux fuse panel under hood years ago. It connects to 5 relays. 1 each for high beams, low beams, fan1, fan2, and fuel pump. I'm going to use whatever provision the sniper provides for fuel pump just to trigger my existing relay. I'm also putting the hyperspark distributor, their coil and CD igniton box too. Aside from figuring out the fuel pump, should be connecting constant power, crank power, key power, and ground. the rest looks all plug and play.

 

[Pool Fixer]

I do have a few questions. Aside from reading the instrucions, I've been youtubing and googling the F out of this. You have to provide a power source that's on while cranking and I've read of guys combinng the wires on the ballast resistor, and other things.. This isn't the first Efi I've had on this car. I ran an old holley Projection about 20 years ago. I remember it also required a power source that would be active cranking and I remember utilizing the pink wire on the starter relay? does that sound familiar to anyone?

Again, I'm in preliminary stages here and I can certainly operate a volt meter to find what I need but I like hearing from others who have done this it can save me some time too

Also, do I just shitcan all of the wiring going to existing distributor, coil, stock style mopar efi box, and ballast? Seems like I won' be needing any of it.

 

[69ChargerR/TSE]

I posted in another thread my set up.
I’m running the Sniper Stealth EFI.
Let me know if you can’t find the info I shared.

 

[Nxcoupe]

I do have a few questions. Aside from reading the instrucions, I've been youtubing and googling the F out of this. You have to provide a power source that's on while cranking and I've read of guys combinng the wires on the ballast resistor, and other things.. This isn't the first Efi I've had on this car. I ran an old holley Projection about 20 years ago. I remember it also required a power source that would be active cranking and I remember utilizing the pink wire on the starter relay? does that sound familiar to anyone?

Again, I'm in preliminary stages here and I can certainly operate a volt meter to find what I need but I like hearing from others who have done this it can save me some time too

Also, do I just shitcan all of the wiring going to existing distributor, coil, stock style mopar efi box, and ballast? Seems like I won' be needing any of it.

I tied into the wire on the positive side of the coil by putting the Holley's ring terminal on the post. I bypassed the ballast resistor by soldering a wire on the backside of it between the two terminals, which keeps the voltage to the terminal at 12V. I'm assuming you have switched to some sort of electronic ignition that hopefully does not use the ballast resistor any more. If you didn't then run the holley wire up to the 12V side of the ballast resistor. I'm going to make a video of my install onto my 66 500 when I get around to doing that install.
I am a Holley EFI dealer and Factory trained tuner if you have any questions or need help.

 

[Pool Fixer]

I've modified the engine harness from the firewall plug forward A LOT over the years. Added high output denso alternator, dual field voltage reg, electric choke, electronic ign, and prob some other stuff I'm forgettting. Since I'll be running hyperspark ign, Holley coil and cD box, I don't need a lot of that anymore. I was fumbling around and just unplugged it off the firewall, washer pump, alternator, horns and pulled the whole harness out. Had it over on the bench with the factory diagram and figured out what I needed.

to answer my own question from a few posts back, I am discarding the wiring for the factory coil, distributor, and factory style electronic ign box. Now that I've had my come to jesus with the diagram and the harness on the bench, It would be very easy to add that stuff back... or, since I havent modified anythiung inside te car, I could spend the money on the repro forward engne harness.

I'm combining the brown crank voltage and the blue key on together and using it as a trigger for a relay to feed the pink wire constant voltage in "key on" or "Crank"

I also laid out the harness and figured out where I'm putting coil, CD box, etc... almost done. Just have to run the Battery voltage, fuel pump, and elec fan ground triggers over to battery area and connect.

It's taking forever because I'm trying my best to make it serviceable. any wires I add, I put weatherpack style quick connects on so I can troubleshoot it. non insulated connectors and heat shrink on everythng.

I also hate self tappers into the inner fenders and firewall. I did a fair amount of those over the years and it kills me to see it now. I've re-used a lot of those holes for rivnuts to mount voltage reg, CD box, and the relays that are part of the hyperspark/sniper harness.

 

[69ChargerR/TSE]

Here’s my hidden Sniper Stealth EFI.

 

[Pool Fixer]

I really like that Stealth look! I feel like we are almost living parallel lives lol. I have a new intake on the way and I’m gonna paint it orange.

I have a serpentine Drive and an aftermarket radiator so there’s a limit to how stealthy I can be

While I’m not going stealth mode, I can’t wait to get rid of my stupid blue distributor cap. I can’t stand looking at that thing anymore!

 

[Wietse]

I am planning on installing my hyperspark soon, an issue i am having is that when cycling from ignition to start is that it briefly cuts the 12v power to the sniper. Not so good.
So while i am at it i need to find out if i had installed the 12v supply to the sniper by feeding it from the ballast wires (green&blue?) and if so find another way to do this. I think best is to install a relay and let it trigger by a switched 12v directly from ignition indeed. Just in case you decided to go the same route as i did, beware of this possible issue.

 

[69ChargerR/TSE]

I am planning on installing my hyperspark soon, an issue i am having is that when cycling from ignition to start is that it briefly cuts the 12v power to the sniper. Not so good.
So while i am at it i need to find out if i had installed the 12v supply to the sniper by feeding it from the ballast wires (green&blue?) and if so find another way to do this. I think best is to install a relay and let it trigger by a switched 12v directly from ignition indeed. Just in case you decided to go the same route as i did, beware of this possible issue.

I did an internal jumper on my ballast and using a A12 Six pack connector that connects to the pink wire in the EFI.
I also installed 2 hidden kill switches which turns off fuel and ignition.

 

[Pool Fixer]

Not sure about other years, but I individually tested the wires feeding 12 V to my ballast. There were two of them. One brown and one blue.

Blue: Key on 12v, 0v cranking
Brown: Key on 0v, 12v cranking

I’m tying them together and using them as a trigger for a relay which will feed clean, fused, direct 12v right from battery to the sniper pink wire.

Found relays with fuse holder built into them.relays are pre wired so colors don’t match but you get the idea

 

[Wietse]

Not sure about other years, but I individually tested the wires feeding 12 V to my ballast. There were two of them. One brown and one blue.

I am not 100% sure anymore but i believe that is what i did and facing the issue of the momentary voltage loss when it changes over for run to start.
Since i will swap over the complete ignition i will open up the harness and review for a new plan to use a relay to power the switched 12v for the sniper and the hyperspark.

 

[Pool Fixer]

When I was testing voltage with blue/brown combined, I was getting some drop while cranking, that’s why I’m using them to trigger a relay. Modern computer stuff is very sensitive to voltage drop

 

[Wietse]

Modern computer stuff is very sensitive to voltage drop

Exactly, thats why i gotta sort that out as well.

 

[Wietse]

When I was testing voltage with blue/brown combined, I was getting some drop while cranking, that’s why I’m using them to trigger a relay. Modern computer stuff is very sensitive to voltage drop

I started on my installation today of my hyperspark and opened up the wiring harness.
So far i can see i ran the Sniper pink (12v switched) wire inside through the firewall, not sure yet where that goes exactly but as you mentioned to install a relay and have the 2 (brown & Drk. Blue (tracer) wires trigger it would be the best solution.
I will run 1 wire from that relay and use it for the Sniper, Ignition box and distributor all together i think.

Edit: I found i put the pink ignition wire on a connection at the fuse box, not the right place to put it.

 

[69ChargerR/TSE]

I started on my installation today of my Hyperspark and opened up the wiring harness.
So far i can see i ran the Sniper pink (12v switched) wire inside through the firewall, not sure yet where that goes exactly but as you mentioned to install a relay and have the 2 (brown & Drk. Blue (tracer) wires trigger it would be the best solution.
I will run 1 wire from that relay and use it for the Sniper, Ignition box and distributor all together i think.

Did you get the NEW version of the harness for the EFI and Hyperspark all in 1?
I added a 52" extension harness from the TB to inside the car, and made a mount to hold the relays, so its inside the car. I also had an extension harness made for the controller to have the wired plug into my console, so I can hide the controller in the console at shows.

 

[Wietse]

Did you get the NEW version of the harness for the EFI and Hyperspark all in 1?

Nope, I've seen the latest kit comes with the complete wiring harness.
Since I already have the sniper in place and ran custom wiring I just bought the individual items and take care of the wiring myself.
I think i will place the hyperspark box on the inside of the passenger side fender, close to the radiator support.
From there i actually need to shorten the wiring coming from the ignition box as the coil will be nearby.
Just need to run 12V and ground to battery terminals and get the Sniper trigger wire and switched 12V in that area and i am good to go.

 

[Pool Fixer]

Im starting from scratch so I won’t use the sniper harness. Im using the harness that came with the hyperspark.

Im using the “as delivered” hyperspark harness and I didn’t want to alter it or cut it up.

On a 2nd gen it lays out well to put to put the coil on a factory bracket in front of throttle body, ignition box on passenger inner fender just below and forward of the washer reservoir. I mounted 2 relays and fuse on the PASS inner fender closest to firewall.