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Sniper fuel system planning and install - show your’s, recommends?

4mulas

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Planning a sniper install on a 69 Road Runner and have read (I think) every post and thread about EFI installs that I could find, good tips here and there and recommends on much of it, but what I’m really looking for is opinions from real world users about what they did for fuel delivery and what they have learned or may change for future installs.

I’m going to use the EFI tank with in-tank pump utilizing a feed and a return - both 3/8”
Was thinking about running 3/8 hard line for the majority of the car using steel braided AN hose (6AN) for the connections at each end (the last 18-24” or so). With a 10 micron billet filter on the supply line.

I’m wondering if it’s overkill or if I should just run braided the whole way or just plain earls rubber line etc…. IE: should I make it as easy as possible? What about push lock or twist-loc fittings too? Are they reliable and safe?

Did everyone put a 1/8npt fuel take off fitting for a pressure guage as sniper instruction recommend you do? Is it really necessary? Should I do it right off the throttle body? Do folks use straight hose ends or maybe 45’s coming off the throttle body?

Is there differences in qualities of braided line or are they about all the same? Same question about the plain stuff like earls or Russel etc..?

Also, maybe @andyf can answer this, can you buy AR engineering stuff direct from Andy or do you have to order through his list of dealers? I’m very interested in the throttle cable bracket and thermostat housing with temp sender port…

I’m capable and very particular about clean and proper, so with an eye to that any help is appreciated…

Any help before ordering a whole bunch of wrong stuff (lol) is really appreciated! Any pictures or recommends also very welcome. Thanks!
 
I was going to go in that direction originally, but with not being able to get any kind of parts in a timely
manner and the posts from some people about the Dr. Jekyl/Mr. Hyde personalities of these systems
I decided to go with the AVS Carburetor with an electric choke. An 800 CFM. The cost for the sniper is
double that of the carburetor, and the Road Kill boys just proved there is no H.P. difference on a recent
episode.
 
Also did an in car cam swap at the same time. Still in the process so its not pretty in the pictures. And after I installed the cam and broke it in I then installed the Hyper Spark just because I didnt want to hunt for settings to get the cam broken in. Hyperspark not installed in these photos.
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Holley Sniper on a 5.7 Corvette All Aluminum engine.
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On a 502 Big Block Chevy
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I was going to go in that direction originally, but with not being able to get any kind of parts in a timely
manner and the posts from some people about the Dr. Jekyl/Mr. Hyde personalities of these systems
I decided to go with the AVS Carburetor with an electric choke. An 800 CFM. The cost for the sniper is
double that of the carburetor, and the Road Kill boys just proved there is no H.P. difference on a recent
episode.
Gaining HP isn't what its about. Its about the ease of starting the reliability of the EFI compared to a carb. While I know you can tune a carb to run well. I don't think the point of EFI is to get better horse power. Reliability and ease of starting is probably the main thing. I may ad to this with if you do a Sniper make sure youu update the software for the hand held and for the ECU that is probably one of the few issues I have had. Once updated they work. Some have other issues but I have had few but were dumb moves on my part not the Sniper.
 
To be more precise On the last Sniper I installed he was going to go with an EFI tank but Holley makes a direct fit EFI sender. It installs in the original hole and no need to spend huge amounts of cash. Also with the Holley In tank sender no need for a return line. You can use your OE metal line and just swap the old rubber parts to EFI hose. You dont need to invest 900.00 for an EFI tank. The in tank sender is around 300.00 I think. I will see if I can get you a link to it. HERE it is.
12-314_02.jpg
 
Yes, I was really happy to see the direct-fit pump for the original tank and understand that it's not just
about H.P. The best quality is drivability and monitoring of the O2 in the exhaust stream. I guess the
TBI isn't what I want right now. I'll let them upgrade what they have now, or maybe someone will come
out with a Sequential system. Thanks!
 
To be more precise On the last Sniper I installed he was going to go with an EFI tank but Holley makes a direct fit EFI sender. It installs in the original hole and no need to spend huge amounts of cash. Also with the Holley In tank sender no need for a return line. You can use your OE metal line and just swap the old rubber parts to EFI hose. You dont need to invest 900.00 for an EFI tank. The in tank sender is around 300.00 I think. I will see if I can get you a link to it. HERE it is.
12-314_02.jpg
I like it but did you see the expected shipping date 2-7-22, and that EXPECTED???
So much for the supply chain. UGH
Just ranting ... disregard the above.
I'm going to go with the sniper myself, just glad I'm not in a hurry.
I'm up and running just fine right now.
 
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I think I will go make a quick video of me cranking up the roadrunner. Its cold and hasn't ran in a week. I will go show how quickly it starts up. No gas patting not washing the cylinders with fuel while trying to start it. Many good points to it but ultimately its your choice. I'm certainly not going to shove it down any ones throat. Carbs have been in use for a long time. And will always be used. Its a matter of what you want.

Never mind its dark out at 6pm wtf..I hate winter.
 
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More reliable than a carb?
Every sniper I have installed took a few miles to tune. The last one I installed on my buddys 1970 GTX he said that it totally did away with his dead spot But found out something interesting from a Holley tech. When you first install them they will whistle I assume trying to make the AF correct. But the Holley tech said to add a 1/4 inch tall phenolic spacer to the base. And sure as **** the whistle went away. Now why dont they tell you that in the instructions. Or better yet why dont they put a spacer in the kit. Since the Master kit is like 1400 bucks. Seems like the least they can do. JJ drives the GTX daily and I'm not kidding he literally drives it everywhere he goes. Unless hes driving to Summit 60 miles away then he takes his Pontiac Vibe. But other than that the car is in constant motion. He put the 500 mile tuning on the car in a matter of 2 days it was completely done learning.
 
The issue I have, if the box,fuel pump or whatever goes down you are screwed. Waiting for Holley / Summit to send one IF they have it in stock is not worth the price of admission for me. Being stuck in BFE and I drive alot of that around here aint no fun. I just keep extra ign module ballast a fuel filter and some tools on board just in case.
 
I just got nosey and tried to buy an Edelbrock 1913. Out Of Stock. Oh well, no Black Friday sales for me!
 
The issue I have, if the box,fuel pump or whatever goes down you are screwed. Waiting for Holley / Summit to send one IF they have it in stock is not worth the price of admission for me. Being stuck in BFE and I drive alot of that around here aint no fun. I just keep extra ign module ballast a fuel filter and some tools on board just in case.
Do you have another vehicle more modern? Does it have EFI? Does it start every time you want to go somewhere? The install is only as good as the person installing it. In tank pumps have been around for a long time and I would think Holley being a leader in carbs and fuel tech would have the fuel system figured out. My tip would be to start out with a very clean fuel tank and not a tank filled with rust and tarnish.
 
Appreciate all the enthusiasms and replies but really would like to keep the thread on topic, it has veered way off early on.

Just looking for fuel systems routing and materials list with pictures if able. Hard line vs soft, which fittings, push-loc vs an hose end style, gauges location and requirements.

Thanks again
 
I put a Super Sniper 4500 on a blown hemi in my 68 GTX. I used the Tanks Inc tank and upgraded bigger fuel pump. I ran all 6AN braided fuel lines to the Sniper. I have the Holley fuel regulator/filter combo on the frame rail by the tank for a short return line. No leaks, no problems so far. It’s quiet too. Bought all the fuel lines and fittings on Amazon.
 
Put entire Sniper system on Mikes '69 Coronet with a 496" stroked 383.
He used the Holley Tank and pump (I think same as Tanks Inc?). Made hard lines from nickel copper lines, used the hyper spark distributor (Not the dual sync) and ignition box.
No issues, but though had one when the car ran out of fuel.
-6 AN 1/8" Fuel Pressure Adaptor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014BDDXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fuel Pressure Gauge:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GQNVDDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Only used the Fuel pressure gauge to make sure everything was set up correctly, then removed it and ran without the gauge.
On Mikes car, all the wiring runs back through the firewall, and the CD box is mounted inside the car.

On the 69 Coronet, used the Spectra Premium CR9CFI tank:
https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CR9CFI-Classic-Injection/dp/B00LPIP7J0
And FineLines Stainless hard lines 3/8" supply, 5/6" return. The tank above uses these line sizes and regular hose barb type lines, so the short tank to hard line is Gates Barricade Green Shield EFI fuel line (compatible with alcohol fuels) with EFI style hose clamps.
Originally I used the Russell braided -6AN hose with supply running on passenger side of car and return on Drivers side of car, but the hard lines run like original 3/8" line with the 5/16" line (Both supply lines, but re-bent and shortened once in the engine compartment and fitted with -6AN Fittings. The braided line from the hard lines to fuel rail and regulator. Just a cleaner, more original look under the car.
My Coronet has the Edelbrock XT EFI TPI type sequential EFI manifold, and FAST 2.0 Computer, so not as simple as the Sniper to wire.
I think most of the EFI Fuel filters can handle E-10 Fuel?
Using the GM style fuel filter, K&N PF-1000 with the -6 to 18mm "O"-ring adaptor fittings (usually listed as -6 to metric power steering fitting.)
Being sequential, using the FAST Dual-Sync Distributor.

Before the Sniper was out, put a FiTech 1200 PA On the '71 Charger.
Running it with a factory dual sync distributor. Runs good, but took some manual tuning.
Adaped old -8 AN fuel system with return that was in the car. Uses a 340 LPH pump assembly dropped into the fuel cell.
I like using the 3/8" thick carb to intake gasket, or phenolic spacer to keep the TBI injection unit away from the intake manifold heat.

Although they are marketed as "self-tuning", that is only in closed loop operation when engine temperatures are over about 170 degrees.
Usually need to do some tuning for idle, and maybe cold/warmup.
 
OK As promised the video I made when I got home from work today. My old lady neighbor comes in at the end of the video lol I thought I edited that out.
 
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Don't use a Holley pump. Buy DeatschWerks in tank pump. They're better and much quieter.

https://deatschwerks.com/

Run the existing steel hard line and Earls EFI hose return. Don't deadhead.

Use a high pressure fuel regulator.

Buy the additional progressive throttle link unless you like that full throttle feeling every time you leave from a stop.

Don't buy the expensive rebranded Holley EFI conversion tank. Buy the one from Tanks Inc. same thing much cheaper.

Do expect to wait for the pump to prime and the electronics to boot up every start.

Don't expect to get Holley tech support to help solve your problems.
 
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