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So it begins!

FYI, the front spring eye adjustment doesn't effect the ride height much. It changes the spring geometry & rear spring reaction, a tuning aid. The spring arch is still the thing to affect ride height.
 
Nice car! I'm confused though, why would you buy wheels and tires before the mini tub and new rear? Looks like what you have now fits so I would personally scrap the mini tub idea unless your new tires are up against the springs.. just my opinion.
 
Good luck with that nice Mopar ! Ron
 
Wheels came today! The fit is good, but looks like I will need the +1 inch lift split mono springs with the Caltracs...and shave the inner lip. Gonna order the Moser Muscle Pak 60 stock width, stock spring location!!

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Be absolutely sure you have PLENTY OF SIDE CLEARANCE on that inner fender lip....I think you needs at least 1.5 inch because if it too close and you turn a corner going up hill or something like that YOU WILL CUT THE HECK OUT OF THE SIDEWALL AND RUIN THOSE BRAND NEW TIRES....
 
FYI, you can also use multi hole rear shackles both for tuning and ride height adjustment. On my '65 Coronet a 1" change on the rear shackle produced about a 1/2" change at the axle. Not sure how that pertains to the CalTracs.
 
Spring re location kit from US Car Tools and bolt in MP subframe connectors arrived! Plan to weld in SF connectors like this... anybody else running this combo. sF connectors are thinner than I expected. These pics are from Dodgecharger.com forums.

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Nice car! I'm confused though, why would you buy wheels and tires before the mini tub and new rear? Looks like what you have now fits so I would personally scrap the mini tub idea unless your new tires are up against the springs.. just my opinion.

Original plan ( and the one I'm hoping for still) was to just run stock width rear ended and tire combo with caltracs no mods. I don't plan to mini-tub, I have clearance between the sidewall and springs. I was just considering options... Once I roll or shave the lip I might not even re-locate the springs. Bought the relocation kit just in case. Hope to fix the wheel opening lip and fit the subframe connectors my next stretch off work. I'm a novice, thankful for any tips!
 
I have the similar Comp Eng bolt in connectors - i welded them in .
If you roll the outer lip you can fit 295s without relocating springs . Like i said i have 10"rims with 28x10.5 radials no sweat . Have run 296/65 radials but you may have to trim dogleg slightly or shim spring hanger back 1/4"

Tex
 
Picking up a 400/512 stroker this coming Friday! Bored 0.035, 10:5 compression, stealth heads, tunnel ram with dual predators (plan to swap a victor or M1 single plane manifold). It has a custom ground Howard's cam. Never been on a dyno. Any guesses? Here's the cam card:

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Picking up a 400/512 stroker this coming Friday! Bored 0.035, 10:5 compression, stealth heads, tunnel ram with dual predators (plan to swap a victor or M1 single plane manifold). It has a custom ground Howard's cam. Never been on a dyno. Any guesses? Here's the cam card:

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On a legit dyno 630-640 +/- a bit. On a happy dyno that some of these guys have had their engines on, 690-700... lol
 
HP, will depend on the builder, as much as the parts. Dyno's are a tuning aid. They don't work like a car does.
 
On a legit dyno 630-640 +/- a bit. On a happy dyno that some of these guys have had their engines on, 690-700... lol

Yeah, anything over 400-425 will be more than I have ever had, and there's a guy asking the same for a stock rebuilt 440 locally. I plan to have the motor gone through, it's had 4 passes at the mud drags. He has all the receipts from the build. It's a gamble that's for sure.
 
HP, will depend on the builder, as much as the parts. Dyno's are a tuning aid. They don't work like a car does.

Yep, still way too many variables. I have a lot to learn. Feel like I just bought a B.O.A.T.
 
Guy threw in a working stock 727. Going to go through the engine, get revers manual transmission, the back to the rear end by May?? Would like to have it running by first of June for Mopars in the Park.

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You definitely need to upgrade the 727 for a 512" motor. My new 512 is getting a pro built 727, even though I built all my own 727's back in the day with 550+/- HP 452" motors. A 512 is a different deal & I want more assurance of durability. Bet you'd like the single four setup better & modern 4bbl intakes & carbs will probably equal the tunnel ram power & easier to set up and deal with.
 
I'm looking at getting a Cope Racing Pro Race transmission. This 727 will be a core exchange or sell?? Yeah prefer a single plane, but am tempted to run the tunnel ram this summer for a retro cool factor if I can get them to work.
 
There's a reason you don't see them carbs on the street. especially 2 of them.
 
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