So tell me if this combo sounds like a winner or a weiner

[fatecaptured]

Well reading some of the engine builds and suggestions, I've decided to post my build and see what people think. This was my first attempt at a street and strip 12 second b body. If the parts sound like they are out of left field, it because I was a noob and didn't have access to a community of people such as this. Take it easy on me and remember I only had a couple of books and no experience. I tried to go by these two books mostly ( Mopar Performance and Big Block Mopar Performance). And I got advice from the mancini tech line.



PAW 440kit: 1975 440 .060 over, 1/2 oil pickup, steel crank, speed pro 2355f60, 452 heads

Mancini Racing: 292/292 .509 purple cam, Comp Cams pro mag rockers, ARP main studs, 3/8" High tech pushrods, sfi flex plate, performer RPM, 800 cfm thunder avs,MSD pro billet dist, blaster coil,msd 6al box, msd wires, sfi bhj dampner, 1 7/8 hooker super comps, pypes 2 1/2 x pipe with turbo race mufflers.

Transmission: 727 with tci kit, shift kit, kevlar rear band, and Turbo Action torque converter 3800 stall..

I also added a mini starter, jeggs aluminum radiator with an electric puller fan and thermo switch.

I had a mechanic do the assembling , I installed the engine and trans, and did all the hook ups. Its been sitting since '08. I'm nervous about the out come. Im trying to get the breaks done before i prime it and start it, just so i can take if for a spin and be able to stop this sucker. After reading about some of the peoples stall speeds, i'm kinda wondering why they (mancini)recommended such a high stall. And for the record i haven't touched the rear end. Kinda want to get it broke in then go messing with that after wards. Oh and it has a new gas tank and 3/8 line and 1/4 return line.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

I like your combination think you should start it up

 

[67 coronet]

sounds ok,i dont know why they recomended such a high stall with that cam though?"run what you brung" as they say.see how it does.

 

[fatecaptured]

i plan to, just need to buy a priming tool and either buy a timing light or borrow one, any ideas where to set the timing on this guy? I looked through all my paperwork and can't find the cam card, not that i have to degree the cam, but wasn't sure if it said anything about ignition timing or not.

 

[ykf7b0]

I like it except for the carburetor. I think this engine would love a Holley 850 Double Pump. Mopar to You!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[forphorty]

I like it. Should be an easy 12 combo with slicks. Your stall speed is not high at all. The 509 cam likes lots of converter. I prefer Holley DP carbs over the Eddy carbs , but either will be just fine.

 

[Meep-Meep]

You can actually do it with less cam for high 12 second car. That will give you better street drivability and require less converter. Your carb tuning will go much smoother, have better throttle response and less gear will be required. You also won't need double valve springs. And don't forget the iron adjustable rockers or a good rigid roller tip version. 1.5:1 ratio is fine.

I recommend the MoPar .455" / 272 with a TCI street fighter or similar converter. Your compression with the 2355's will be about perfect with the smaller cam too and the carb choice should do nicely as well. I'd prefer 906 or 915 heads but if you have the 452's try them.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Set timing initial at 10-12 then total at 32-35 have you used the carb cfm calculator to see if 800 is right or too much?

Here is the link - with base 440 @ 83% efficiency you only need a 600 cfm. So 800 eddy avs will be plenty. I have one works fine. But I need 930 lol
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html

You may find that puller fan is not enough to keep it cool during break in so if you have room I would use the factory fan or a flex fan. You should have the factory set up radiator, clutch fan and shroud. If not consider it.

IMHO the rest is fine

 

[ykf7b0]

Here is the link - with base 440 @ 83% efficiency you only need a 600 cfm. So 800 eddy avs will be plenty. I have one works fine.

My 440 will disagree with this. I went from a 750 Edelbrock to an 850 Holley Double Pump it awoke my engine from the dead! My build is not much different than yours. Enjoy!!!

 

[MarPar]

im with bigman on this one; factory fan (clutch or regular) and a shroud. forget the silly electric fan... it will only cause you more problems.

if it runs too hot for ya still, pour a bottle of water whetter in the rad and it will bring it down another 10*.

stall may be a bit high, IMHO.

but it's all there, so give it a shot and see!!

oh, and take videos!!! that way it would make it easier for us to help you sort out any potential problems you may experience.

 

[fatecaptured]

Great feed back guys. I figured i'd get laughed off the site with this combo. I haven't touched the rear gear and i think it a open one to boot. While we're on topic, should I go with a 3.55 sure grip or lower? If memory serves, Mancini recommended a 3.55 or 3.90? IDK, we're talking 5 years ago.

As far as the valve train goes, I went with the 452's cause thats what i had at the time. And they already had the head work done. I've learned since that i should've had them ported or went with a different head.


Although I spent every income tax I got from '05-'08 on this engine build. I wanted to go much further, like indy heads and a dominator. But i knew that the chassis being pretty much stock wouldn't handle that kinda build. And my pocket book wouldn't either. Other than rebuilding the front suspension and adding kyb shocks, there's much more to do. I just want to hear the damn thing run and drive it down the block before i croak,lol.

Then I get to do it all again with the charger, yay :hello2:

 

[MarPar]

Great feed back guys. I figured i'd get laughed off the site with this combo. that's why we're the best site on the net!!

I haven't touched the rear gear and i think it a open one to boot. While we're on topic, should I go with a 3.55 sure grip or lower? If memory serves, Mancini recommended a 3.55 or 3.90? IDK, we're talking 5 years ago. see how she goes first then finger it out..

I just want to hear the damn thing run and drive it down the block before i croak,lol. LOL

Then I get to do it all again with the charger, yay :hello2:

Good Man!!! already got one waitin' in the wings!!! :headbang:

 

[fatecaptured]

I've always been worried about it over heating. That was my reasoning for the electric fan, until i started reading these forums on here and how the electrics suck. Wow i actually do have a bottle of water wetter. So will the jegs radiator suffice or should i rethink that one too?

 

[MarPar]

I've always been worried about it over heating. That was my reasoning for the electric fan, until i started reading these forums on here and how the electrics suck. Wow i actually do have a bottle of water wetter. So will the jegs radiator suffice or should i rethink that one too?

ya water whetter is good stuff!! been using it for 3 years now and brought my temp down 10*. she barely gets to 200* in stop and go traffic on 290. (180* t-stat btw)

is the rad a 3-core? how big diagonally (just the fin part)? 16lb cap?

i would assume it would be a decent radiator...not what Ma MoPar would like, but what the hell, you got it, might as well use it for now!

do you know what your * t-stat is?

lastly, and probably most importantly in the * realm, do you have an actual temp gauge hooked up?? and not just what Ma gave you??

all food for thought anyways...you could very well fire it up, and she runs just fine!

 

[67 B-body]

Put in a good oil before you even think about priming and starting that engine!!!
Not just off the shelf stuff Wall-Nuts sells or Autozone......
It has to be an oil like Brad Penn, or Gibbs.....
Anything less will cost you a cam lobe or two,,, lifters,,,,fuel pump pushrod and a complete rebuild due to metal pumped throughout the engine and into your bearings, wiping out your crankshaft along the way!!!!
Yes,,, it's that important!!!!

 

[fatecaptured]

i have aftermarket water, volt , oil gauges and a tach. Tach's not hooked up yet.

So I should definitely change out the electric fan? Here's something that mite be ify. I didn't have a place for the temp gauge probe so i screwed in into the block ( where a water drain plug was), bad idea? The thermo switch for the fan went in the thermostat housing and there was no other place to stick it. But if i remove the electric fan and switch, then i can locate it there.

I don't remember what thermostat i used... yes its a 3 core and i believe it has a 22" core (fin to fin). Cap is a jegs cap, yes 16 lb.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Here's why they recommended that converter. You need it. That camshaft has 248.5* of duration @.050", plus it's ground on 108* lobe centers. It's a BIG hydraulic camshaft, even for a big block. If you got the valvetrain and head work for it, it'll keep pullin to 7K. Also, what rear gear? Either I missed it, or you didn't post it. I would recommend a 4.10 with a 27" tall tire max. Any taller and I'd say 4.30. I say run what you have since it's already together. It'll run good......absolutely true though, is what Meep-Meep said. You can do it with less camshaft.........but then you need less stall, less gear, you get the picture. You'd need to change the whole package. The package is good, long as you don't mind the deep gears it will NEED.

 

[fatecaptured]

Put in a good oil before you even think about priming and starting that engine!!!
Not just off the shelf stuff Wall-Nuts sells or Autozone......
It has to be an oil like Brad Penn, or Gibbs.....
Anything less will cost you a cam lobe or two,,, lifters,,,,fuel pump pushrod and a complete rebuild due to metal pumped throughout the engine and into your bearings, wiping out your crankshaft along the way!!!!
Yes,,, it's that important!!!!

I have royal purple break in oil, is that good?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Put in a good oil before you even think about priming and starting that engine!!!
Not just off the shelf stuff Wall-Nuts sells or Autozone......
It has to be an oil like Brad Penn, or Gibbs.....
Anything less will cost you a cam lobe or two,,, lifters,,,,fuel pump pushrod and a complete rebuild due to metal pumped throughout the engine and into your bearings, wiping out your crankshaft along the way!!!!
Yes,,, it's that important!!!!

X 1000.

and my opinion on the water wetter.....not that you asked, lol. I always looked at that stuff as a band aid. I figure if somebody HAS to use it to keep an engine cool, they got problems somewhere else. A good, properly set up cooling system will work well without that stuff. JMHO. Let the flaming begin. lol

 

[RustyRatRod]

I have royal purple break in oil, is that good?

Maybe. Look to see how many PPM of zinc it has. I am unfamiliar with it as I run carbon based oils. I'll tell you this......I would NOT fire a new engine up on synthetic. Opinions may vary, but that's my personal preference.