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So tell me if this combo sounds like a winner or a weiner

Meep-Meep said:
If you truly want a nice street driving car, one that you can drive every day if you have to, and has some grunt on the track, then keep the cam lobe separation at 112. This will also give you some flexibility with the gears and allow you to run a 3.23 if need be and still have good performance.
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Yup, sho nuff. 100% agree. But I thought his engine was already together? (scratches head)

In that case.....the 528 would rock his world. LOL Would even be worth the adjustable valve gear.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yup, sho nuff. 100% agree. But I thought his engine was already together? (scratches head)

In that case.....the 528 would rock his world. LOL Would even be worth the adjustable valve gear.
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Umm huh.???
 
With that .509 cam I would use at the least 3.91 gears as it will want it. Good luck , Ron
 
Yes Rusty, it is together. It does have adjustable rockers. If a differential hard to due a gear swap? Would it be wiser to buy one complete?
 
Naw it's not difficult. It takes experience. If you've never set up gears before, it can be somewhat daunting. Dude, if you were in Georgia, we'd have you one set up in half a day. Maybe there's a member here in your area that can help. That one you were askin about in the far sale section will work.....though the housing might be different, the center section will exchange. Now, whether it has the same yoke as yours, I don't know.

Not tryin to start an arguement, but I wouldn't even think about a 3.91 with that 509 cam. I'd think a 4.10 would be minimum...that's just my personal opinion.

With adjustable rockers, you could certainly go with a solid cam......although that Lunati hydraulic I posted might be even better than the MP solid grind. I don't know dude. What are you gonna DO with the car? If it's gonna mostly be a street car, you know what? A cam change might serve you better. Just food for thought.
 
With 528 inches you can darn near get by with 8.5:1 compression and single exhaust!
 
Haha, I think he meant the .528MP Solid! :happy7:

Combination sounds like a great street performer. I would go with a 28" Tire and 4.10-4.30 Gears. Next camshaft change I would go to a solid lifter myself! Comp or Crane Cams have some great offerings for BBM. If you're like me, and want something tried and proven; can't go wrong with the Purple Shafts either.. Good Luck!
 
well... when i first planed this build, i wanted a quarter mile car hands down. But something I could drive to the track also. Years have gone by and my desire to enjoy the car has grown increasingly.

I know this probably isn't the ideal combo, but I would like to salvage the project and make something out of the invested time. A cam swap seems to lead to a different torque converter which seems to be more work than i want to do at this point. I'm kinda beaten down with this project. This car hasn't liked me messing with it. Every little thing seems to be a challenge. Simple things aren't simple.

Thats why my next build (72 charger rallye) is going to be bone stock and all original or as much as can be. If I had a do over, i would've just left the 383 in the car and spent my money and time on the body work. Which i did go to school for autobody. Not saying i'm a pro by any means, but i at least know what the hell i'm doing in that department...

I appreciate everyone's input and advice. And No I don't want to just wait and find someone to tell me what i want to here. If there is someone on this site that could lend a hand that would be super. My luck isn't so good.

Kinda glad i drug my feet since i installed the fuel pump rod incorrectly. But i'm fearing that when i fire this thing up, i'm gonna have a spewing unhappy motor. The hooker headers I bought were for a '70 engine(thought they went by body application). Had no idea that they wouldn't work on the 452 heads. By the time i realized it, they already had dents in them. So i had to grind the flanges to make them work( nervious about them sealing properly).The damn header bolts are arp stainless with lock tite on the threads (that seems wrong now), the electric fan ( seems all wrong). Although in my defense on he fan bit, the mechanic said it would be a good upgrade and aid in the cooling... I went with a locar flexable trans dipstick ( that seems kinda retarded) said to silicone it in. I could go on, but it just seems like allot of aftermarket **** that may or may not work, and its stressing me out.
 
I don't get why the headers won't work with 452 heads. Exhaust hook up is the same as all BB MoPar heads. Even the Max Wedge. Some exhaust flange bolts may actually need to be studs and dinging a tube here and there is a prerequisite for header installation.

I have learned early on that aftermarket stuff is not the end all be all. It's best to start with factory parts and change things on an as needed basis.
 
Well the thing is with the 452 heads is a casting lip on the top of the exhaust flange surface. The header would not clear this lip and i had to grind off a good 1/8" off the top of the header flange to make it fit, so there isn't much meat left on the top edge of the flange. If i had know about this when the heads were off, i could've taken them in and had that lip machined off. Idk why they put a lip on them, the 906's and 346's were flat, so thats why they wouldn't fit. Yeah finding out that after market isn't so great. But i don't think manifolds would've been a good option on this build.
 
Interesting. I have a set of 452's so I'll take a look. Headers are a wise investment for a performance build.
 
That's why originally I suggested the gear change. You'd be changing one thing instead of having to think about changing cam and converter. It's just a decision you're gonna have to make. Whether you change the geat to match your present combo, or change the combo to match your present gear......either way you won't lose as long as in the end you have a matched package. Plus you can't lose since it's a Mopar.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's why originally I suggested the gear change. You'd be changing one thing instead of having to think about changing cam and converter. It's just a decision you're gonna have to make. Whether you change the geat to match your present combo, or change the combo to match your present gear......either way you won't lose as long as in the end you have a matched package. Plus you can't lose since it's a Mopar.
Click to expand...

true true, decision is to change the gear and either put a sure grip or locker in it. It has 16's on it now. 245, 50 or 60's, idk will have to look again to be sure, but it had 245,60 r14's with steelies and dog dish covers when i bought it, i didn't care for the looks of it then. Always liked the AR t2's..
 
Also, don't forget when you prime that engine, the oiling is "timed" by camshaft rotation. So if you prime it and get no oil to the top end, rotate the engine until you see oil coming out of the rockers.
 
Ok just to clarify something, got to reading this article :http://forums.moparmusclemagazine.c...rivetrains/8-3-4-rear-end-question/page2.html

So I was told years ago that if i jack the *** end up and rotate the drive shaft , mark the tire and spin the drive shaft until the tire makes 1 revolution, then thats the gear ratio. Is this correct? And also was told that if one tire went one way and the other in the other direction, that it was an open rear end. But this article says different. Can some one please school me on this, idk if im right or wrong. I'd hate to spend more money to find out i didn't need to.

And also, whats the difference in the early b body 8 3/4's vrs a 70 8 3/4???
 
Here's the info you need on the 8-3/4 rears. There's three types of center sections all with different pinion stem diameters. They got thicker as the years went on.

http://members.tripod.com/mojo_page/chry875.htm

Yup, thats how to figure the ratio.

I kinda tend to be a zen-type guy, so dont let your hobby stress ya out. It's gotta be the opposite or (for me) there's little point. Just ask some questions, get your answers and adapt what you already did to what your needs are now with the smallest of changes possible. So you bought that electric fan - use it. Same with the other stuff. If your headers leak, so what, ask around and i bet someone around here has a set that'll get you by. If they're ugly, heat wrap em and tell your friends its to eject heat and increase power. Whatever you do, enjoy it enjoy it enjoy it.
 
Sorta. If you have an open differential, it's kinda tough to do because both tires need to spin the same direction and the same amount. Otherwise, your "measurement" is thrown off. If you have a sure grip, then that method is fairly accurate. But yes. Mark the drive shaft. Mark the tire. Turn the drive shaft one full turn and count the revolutions of the tire. However many times the tire turns compared to the one drive shaft revolution is your ratio.....roughly.
 
Had a thought, would it be wise to find a dana 60 or should i stick with the 8 3/4?

Also I seen this 8 3/4 on here :http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?p=909771736#post909771736 i read the link that HT413 posted. So there is minimal difference with these two housings( my current 70 and this one)?

My first idea was to see if he would just sell me the differential, but would it be wiser to just swap the complete assembly?

I should've just posted this thread under restorations....lol
 
I see what you're sayin, since you'll be changing gears, maybe just pick up a dana already done. i'd Stick with the 8-3/4 unless you happen to to find that dana rear that is the right drum to drum spacing for your car and the right gear ratio. 8-3/4 is a very good diff, can handle plenty if power and parts are aplenty. I'd think it'd be easier and cheaper to find a center section for an 8-3/4 with the gears your lookin for than looking for that dana.
 
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