Some 440 questions

[khryslerkid]

For those interested, it was the sending unit that died (thank god). I really didn't think the mains were bad or the pump died, as the engine appears to have gone through a complete rebuild in the fairly recent past.

I ended up installing a cheapo mechanical gauge on the other oil port on the back of the block. Used a priming tool to spin up the pump and got oil immediately. Now to see if I can figure out some way to get the old sending unit off and replace it, someone apparently thought putting loctite on a sending unit, in a almost completely inaccessible location, was a good idea.

Thanks for the update. Maybe a crows foot on a extension or a homemade bent wrench would help remove the sending unit.

 

[khryslerkid]

you better explain that one a little better with valve action for a guy that's having trouble figuring out oil pressure!

Give the guy a break. Were you born with the knowledge that you have?

 

[tonysrt]

Most of us guys learned as we went along. We didn't have these forums to ask questions and get the right answer. We all Fkup something or other as we learned. I give the guy credit for asking the question before he fouled something up. I know I had a friends Father who owned a gas station and he helped me out a lot. I rebuilt a 265 Chevy and got it running with his help. So remember that this forum is here to help the less knowledgeable guys like him and maybe you.

 

[khryslerkid]

Made myself a Piston Stop for finding TDC with the heads on. Things you will need:

Long reach spark plug

3/8 x 16 x 2 1/4 bolt

Hack saw

5/16 drill bit

3/8 x 16 tap

Cut the shoulder that's holding the porcelain all the way around. Don't saw straight through. Turn the plug as you go, stopping when you hit the porcelain. Tap around the hex on the plug to release the glue that's holding it in. Cut off the ground strap and tap the electrode and porcelain out. Also remove the sealing ring on the threads.

Useing a 5/16 drill bit, drill through the center. The inside diameter is already 5/16 but there is a shoulder halfway down. Follow up with a 3/8 x 16 thread tap.
Use a 2 1/4 bolt with at least 1 1/4 of thread.

That's all there is to it

To use the stop:

Remove all the spark plugs in the engine.

Find the piston top, by turning the crank by hand, useing a wire, or what I like to use, a plastic wire tie, in the #1 plug hole. Try to find the TDC by hand first before inserting the tool. Then back if off just a little. Then insert the tool with the bolt backed off. Run the bolt in until you feel it just touch the piston. Make a mark on the damper.

Now rotate the crank in the opposite direction until you feel it touch the stop. Go slow and let the compression bleed off. When the piston contacts the stop, make a mark on the damper.

Half the distance between the marks is your TDC.

Fine tuning where you set the bolt, can narrow the distance between your marks. A little practice and patience will get you good results. Great for checking your dampner's accuracy.

Or you can buy one. You just need to know your plug size...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-67581/

 

[moparedtn]

Made myself a Piston Stop for finding TDC with the heads on. Things you will need:

Long reach spark plug

3/8 x 16 x 2 1/4 bolt

Hack saw

5/16 drill bit

3/8 x 16 tap

View attachment 886352

Cut the shoulder that's holding the porcelain all the way around. Don't saw straight through. Turn the plug as you go, stopping when you hit the porcelain. Tap around the hex on the plug to release the glue that's holding it in. Cut off the ground strap and tap the electrode and porcelain out. Also remove the sealing ring on the threads.

Useing a 5/16 drill bit, drill through the center. The inside diameter is already 5/16 but there is a shoulder halfway down. Follow up with a 3/8 x 16 thread tap.
Use a 2 1/4 bolt with at least 1 1/4 of thread.

View attachment 886353

That's all there is to it

View attachment 886354

To use the stop:

Remove all the spark plugs in the engine.

Find the piston top, by turning the crank by hand, useing a wire, or what I like to use, a plastic wire tie, in the #1 plug hole. Try to find the TDC by hand first before inserting the tool. Then back if off just a little. Then insert the tool with the bolt backed off. Run the bolt in until you feel it just touch the piston. Make a mark on the damper.

View attachment 886355

Now rotate the crank in the opposite direction until you feel it touch the stop. Go slow and let the compression bleed off. When the piston contacts the stop, make a mark on the damper.

View attachment 886356

Half the distance between the marks is your TDC.

Fine tuning where you set the bolt, can narrow the distance between your marks. A little practice and patience will get you good results. Great for checking your dampner's accuracy.

Or you can buy one. You just need to know your plug size...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-67581/

Beautifully done, sir!
Here's a pic from when I learned all this stuff on my own 440:

The "10" on the timing marks is 10 degrees BTDC; notches on either side are the 5 degree increments
either way. The factory hole in the timing mark plate is TDC indicated.
The two black dots on the balancer were where the piston stop hit the #1 piston in either direction
of rotation. The silver line on the balancer is the factory grooved mark, which in my case proved to
be exactly accurate for true TDC.
I used a piston stop from Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-67581

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Is he on this forum to?

Google is EVERYWHERE.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=find+tdc+on+mopar+440+engine

 

[moparedtn]

I have a basic question here:
Did the 440 in question here run fine before the Fitech transplant work began?

 

[firiepete]

Hello,
First post here! I've been doing some work on the 440 in my '66 Charger, just added a Fitech fuel injection system along with a new MSD box, distributor, coil and plug wires. I was fired the car for the first time in probably a month to get the timing set and start fine tuning the fuel injection but had a few things come up that prevented me from finishing it up today.

1.) Where are the timing marks supposed to be located on the crank pulley? I did some looking today and couldn't see anything, not sure I'm just looking in the wrong place or if its caked with like 6 layers of paint.

2.) I fired the car up and ran it for probably 2-3 mins before I noticed my oil gauge was showing no pressure. I didn't notice any clattering/unusual noises (I'm guessing it would have been making some bad noises if it actually wasn't getting any oil) and there was definitely oil in the valve train when I pulled the valve cover, so I'm guessing (hoping) that oil was still moving around the engine. That leaves me with the sending unit or perhaps I bumped a wire while messing around in the engine bay. Where is the sender located on the 440? Obviously, I want to make sure I have oil pressure before I start messing with timing again.

Any help would be great!

-Mike

I had trouble with no oil pressure. I hadn't changed the oil pickup during a build because pickup looked clean. A BIG MISTAKE. There is a second layer of smaller mess (filter) behind the exterior larger mesh which you can't see. A new oil pick up fixed the no oil pressure. There was no clattering also. Replace the oil pickup ASAP. Remove the sump while engine is in the car. Easy done with a hoist. Otherwise, 4 stands. Well worth the effort. Good luck from Aussie land. Pete

 

[BB BELLA]

Give the guy a break. Were you born with the knowledge that you have?

no! but if your telling the fellow to pull the valve covers kind of sounded like when you pull the rocker off there will be a big sign in there telling you what to do!lmao just thought maybe you should explain that turning the engine over and watching the intake valve close on #1 will be compression tdc when the damper mark lines up with the tab or close enough to set rotor position!

 

[Mikefallen13]

Just to clear some things up.

Yes, the 440 ran fine (with strong oil pressure) before I installed the Fitech, the carb wasn't in the best shape, which is what prompted me to switch to the EFI for added reliability.

This is my first old car, I've worked on some newer vehicles but I'm not at all familiar with this engine or car in general. I figured asking some questions on this forum with people who know what their doing would be better than blindly googling for answers. I guess some people would rather spend their time replying with "just google it" than actually being helpful.

I did end up finding the timing mark after scrubbing all the crud off (my balancer has a single mark on it) and verified TDC by pulling the valve cover, plugs and using the old welding wire trick.

I've had the car for about 7 months, the person I purchased it from didn't know much about the history of the car as it was his late father's. The engine appears to have had a good bit of work done in the past, it has a Moroso deep sump pan, new pistons, rods, a fairly agressive cam and some other cosmetic parts (valve covers, some chrome bits and pieces). Unfortunately, I dont know anything about the cam specs or the other parts used. It's not a stock motor by any means.

I do appreciate the helpful comments. Thanks.