dieseldazzle
Well-Known Member
first of all, I'm not a big fan of non stock radiators or aluminum ones BUT my buddy has a dukes clone that's kind of a "driver" and he wanted to just make it nicer on a budget.
The stock radiator was shot. The motor had been rebuilt 10 years ago with little use but it was grimey from poorly installed gaskets etc.
So ordered the 26 inch two row (one inch each row) aluminum job that accepts a shroud and is for b body big block with passenger side upper inlet and driver side lower outlet.
For any of you considering it for the money it can't be beat and it sure as hell is better than a 40 year old stock one. It also made a non driveable car driveable for 250 delivered.
You will have to trim the outside edge if the passenger side that the stock shroud bolts to do it will clear the lip on the front end of the frame rail. Very little maybe 1/16 inch. Also slot the lower passenger side mount hole oval. Other than that it fell right in. Works great and on the cheap
Oh yeah and I painted the top semi gloss ceramic high temp black then shot with high temp satin clear (vht)
The stock radiator was shot. The motor had been rebuilt 10 years ago with little use but it was grimey from poorly installed gaskets etc.
So ordered the 26 inch two row (one inch each row) aluminum job that accepts a shroud and is for b body big block with passenger side upper inlet and driver side lower outlet.
For any of you considering it for the money it can't be beat and it sure as hell is better than a 40 year old stock one. It also made a non driveable car driveable for 250 delivered.
You will have to trim the outside edge if the passenger side that the stock shroud bolts to do it will clear the lip on the front end of the frame rail. Very little maybe 1/16 inch. Also slot the lower passenger side mount hole oval. Other than that it fell right in. Works great and on the cheap
Oh yeah and I painted the top semi gloss ceramic high temp black then shot with high temp satin clear (vht)