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'68 GTX 440HP Over Heating

As usual Bob Renton, you play the Bullshit Baffles brains syndrome using lots of techno speak & then criticising others for not offering proof.
Where is the proof that Glenn radiators, the max velocity/greatest efficiency [ post #20 ]. What other rads were these rads compared to & where are the numbers??
Where are the fluid velocity #s, volume #s, & air flow velocity #s [ post #28 ] that you ask of others....but fail to provide in YOUR posts?????????????????????????
Offering no more than your usual un substiated, having no actual engineering background all you do is criticize thermodynamics calculations...all you offer is a personal opinion. I've demonstrated thermodynamics prior. If you cannot comprehend the calculations....LEARN THEM. I personally do not care what you think about ANYTHING, yet alone specifics to thermodynamics.....perhaps a thinking contest is in order......
BOB RENTON
 
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When shopping for a short height clutch, looks around for an FC-28.
This was supplied as a Mopar replacement, closed hub and <3" in height.
They often show up on e-bagger for around $100..

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

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As usual Bob Renton, you play the Bullshit Baffles brains syndrome using lots of techno speak & then criticising others for not offering proof.
Where is the proof that Glenn radiators, the max velocity/greatest efficiency [ post #20 ]. What other rads were these rads compared to & where are the numbers??
Where are the fluid velocity #s, volume #s, & air flow velocity #s [ post #28 ] that you ask of others....but fail to provide in YOUR posts?????????????????????????
Thank you.
 
You are just a hypocrite Bob. You demand proof from others....but provide none yourself.
You wouldn't have a clue what degrees or training I have had.....not that it matters.
There are some very smart people on the planet...& they have no formal tertiary training.
 
I would be happy to learn of the actual hands on work that he has done to his cars and the mistakes that he made and learned from.
I've asked but he refuses to answer. He may be quite the wrench but I've yet to see anything. There are guys here with High School educations that can do bodywork and paint, straighten frames, weld, tune a carburetor, trace a rattle, reskin seats, rewire a dash, assemble an engine-transmission or rear end, cut out rust and patch in new metal and make it look original, install a convertible top or vinyl top, install windshields, set up a chassis to handle a road course or drag strip, turn a 10 second ET, race in the 24 hours of Lemons and do numerous other great things....all without a college degree.
We all can learn from someone else. Sometimes we learn a better way to fix something, other times we see their mistakes and make sure to NOT repeat what they did. I know that I have been on both sides of those examples!
In my posts and threads here, I try to show my mistakes as well as my smart moves because I'd rather come across as real and genuine, even humble rather than arrogant or stubborn.
 
With a narrow radiator like the 22", the only way to increase capacity is to go thicker. That closes up the clearance to the fan, sometimes to the point where a clutch fan setup won't fit. If the car has always ran hot with a 22" unit, wouldn't you think a bigger radiator is a good idea?
Yes, you'd need to open up the core support to make it work.

I had a 440 in a roadrunner that had a 22 opening and a 26 stuck in. Car ran as cold as the stat number with that engine and also the 383 I later put in. It wasn’t opened up when I got it and I didn’t cut it either. I’m a believer that capacity is the main driver and as long as that coolant is passing by the opening it will work.
 
Glad to see you are still kickin' 'Itis ! :drinks:
HEMI-ITIS,
Don't forget about that giant HEAT SINK sitting on top of your hemi. My experience is that a supercharger and removing the hood tends to help keep engine temperatures in check...

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I would be happy to learn of the actual hands on work that he has done to his cars and the mistakes that he made and learned from.
I've asked but he refuses to answer. He may be quite the wrench but I've yet to see anything. There are guys here with High School educations that can do bodywork and paint, straighten frames, weld, tune a carburetor, trace a rattle, reskin seats, rewire a dash, assemble an engine-transmission or rear end, cut out rust and patch in new metal and make it look original, install a convertible top or vinyl top, install windshields, set up a chassis to handle a road course or drag strip, turn a 10 second ET, race in the 24 hours of Lemons and do numerous other great things....all without a college degree.
We all can learn from someone else. Sometimes we learn a better way to fix something, other times we see their mistakes and make sure to NOT repeat what they did. I know that I have been on both sides of those examples!
In my posts and threads here, I try to show my mistakes as well as my smart moves because I'd rather come across as real and genuine, even humble rather than arrogant or stubborn.
I’m a freak who has been on both sides of this. Professional degree and trade school, cab of a truck and corner office. Took an engineering course for flow of solids. I could only work the first four levels of equations, the degreed engineers in the class completed all six. But I was the only one who came up with a working solution for all the hypotheticals. Afterwards, my classmates asked me what my engineering background was. I answered, “truck loader.” Bob’s posts have serious merit, but practical experience does as well.
 
MAKE SURE THE FAN CLUTCH IS NOT SLIPPING. My A12 temp would rise in minutes. I tried all the usual repairs. Then I figured I would change the fan clutch. Bingo, problem solved. That made me a happy man. Now I drive with confidence. I used a reproduction 070 clutch.
Do you have a 22" Rad? Is it a 3 row?
 
Bob... who manufactures the Mopar fan clutches ?
Eaton. The factory 26” 3 row setup worked fine for decades on just about everything. Now suddenly we all need aftermarket electric fans or clutches and aluminum radiator to get them cool. I agree with Bob, get a decent brass 3-row core and the correct factory parts. If that doesn’t work then you have other issues.
 
I had an original 26” radiator recored and I asked them to put in an HD core. They put in a brass core that had two adjacent tubes and the next row had one. I don’t think this was correct. I think that in a true HD core, every row has three tubes (see photo below). When I switched to a high stall speed torque converter, I went into the overheating situation when running down the highway. I did not have this problem before I switched to the high stall speed converter.
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I had an original 26” radiator recored and I asked them to put in an HD core. They put in a brass core that had two adjacent tubes and the next row had one. I don’t think this was correct. I think that in a true HD core, every row has three tubes (see photo below). When I switched to a high stall speed torque converter, I went into the overheating situation when running down the highway. I did not have this problem before I switched to the high stall speed converter.
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Were you running an external trans cooler? Factory cooler tube won’t adequately cool a hi stall converter.
 
Were you running an external trans cooler? Factory cooler tube won’t adequately cool A hi stall converter.
Yes, I ran a double external trans cooler stack in series with the radiator. I also added an electric fan in front of the stock radiator. Still can’t keep up with the heat load.
 
What worked for me was going back to factory 7 blade steel fan and spacer no clutch, 185 Robert Shaw thermostat, high flow water pump, trans cooler and factory 22” re-cored brass radiator with shroud.
Runs 185 all day.
 
Yes, I ran a double external trans cooler stack in series with the radiator. I also added an electric fan in front of the stock radiator. Still can’t keep up with the heat load.
Do you really NEED/(or just want) a "high stall" converter? Whats the application? The heat load caused by the torque converter at highway speeds can be as high as 300°+F, depending upon the percentage of slip, the higher slip, the greater the cooler's surface area to dissipate needs to increase. Can the T-C supplier supply you with BTU heat loss at say, 60 mph,so you can size the correct oil cooler, in both Btu/hr. (temperature) AND oil flow volume in Gallons/minutes.....just a thought...the seals and clutch pacs are also being degraded due to hi temps...
.BOB RENTON
 
I’ve heard recent reports about failures regarding the US Radiator units. Splitting at the tank seams seems to be the problem with them.
 
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