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Squealing Noise and Oil to the Rockers

The rocker arms are not interchangeable, they are made in pairs of right and left. Look closely to make sure they are correct, the other problem could be the spacers/hold downs did not get put back in the correct order. If the rocker arm cup is on the pushrod, it shouldn't be far off the valve stem...there can be a slight side-to-side movement. They look correct in the picture you posted earlier
 
The rocker arms are not interchangeable, they are made in pairs of right and left. Look closely to make sure they are correct, the other problem could be the spacers/hold downs did not get put back in the correct order. If the rocker arm cup is on the pushrod, it shouldn't be far off the valve stem...there can be a slight side-to-side movement. They look correct in the picture you posted earlier
Thanks - these were rotated exactly how they were taken off when I installed the arm the correct way.

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Thanks - these were rotated exactly how they were taken off when I installed the arm the correct way.

View attachment 496606
In this picture, the two on the left both look like left hand rockers, then the next two both look like right-hand rockers, and the last one looks also like a right hand.. at least that's how it looks to me in the picture. They need to be, if you start at the far left valve, in pairs L-R, L-R, L-R, L-R. They appear to be L-L, L-L, R-R, R-R (of course I'm guessing on the three that aren't in the picture based on the locations of the ones that are shown) this would be why your tips are not properly on the valve stems
 
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Thanks - Got the rockers on correctly, getting oil as well - however, the original problem with the squeal is still there. Like I said in my original post, checked the flex plate and starter bolts - sounds like it is coming from the top.

 
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We have oil!:thumbsup: As far as the squeal, maybe take a video of it happening and post it here
 
In the beginning, when you got the engine all back together, did you use a new cam and lifters and do a cam break-in?

Another case I remember on a front engine squealing, was the oil slinger on the crank, being installed backwards. (Just thinking out loud)

Try to isolate the noise with a stethoscope type of tool. Like a long shaft screwdriver touching the blade on different places and the handle on or near your ear. Looking for scaring or metal filings is best so you don't have to run the engine anymore than you have to.

We need a little more history on your build if you could.
 
In the beginning, when you got the engine all back together, did you use a new cam and lifters and do a cam break-in?

Another case I remember on a front engine squealing, was the oil slinger on the crank, being installed backwards. (Just thinking out loud)

Try to isolate the noise with a stethoscope type of tool. Like a long shaft screwdriver touching the blade on different places and the handle on or near your ear. Looking for scaring or metal filings is best so you don't have to run the engine anymore than you have to.

We need a little more history on your build if you could.
We did the cam break in - car was fine, no leaks but did run a little hot. Been working on getting that fixed. Using a 750 cfm Edelbrock - not too crazy about that. This is stuff that I would take care of a little at a time.

As far a the rebuild, I took some pictures (ignore the stuff about the 906 heads - decided not to use those) that I keep with the car documentation that I'm attaching. The shop that did all the work is fairly reputable.

The car was driven about 200 miles - varying speeds - before the squeal.

IMG_9389.JPG IMG_9390.JPG IMG_9391.JPG IMG_9392.JPG
 
It's really hard to hear in the video, those mics really distort around an engine running. I think I'm picking up on the noise somewhat, and it's like the rhythm of the valve train. Sometimes that's what you have to think about when pinpointing a sound, the actual rhythm of the component.

Did all of the pushrod ends look polished without any scaring? Any groves cut into the rocker shaft?

If all looked good, take a high intensity mini mag light and try to look past the pushrods and oil passages, at the cam lobes for scaring. Try to look at the lobe for the fuel pump rod too.

I'm trying to think what would have starved for oil with the rocker shafts being mounted the way they were, for 200 miles. The only thing I'm thinking, would be the pushrod tips at the rocker.
 
Hate to say this, but you could have spun a rod bearing or 2. Happened to me about a month ago, spun #1 and 2 rod bearing. Still had good oil pressure, 85lbs. hot at idle.
 
It's really hard to hear in the video, those mics really distort around an engine running. I think I'm picking up on the noise somewhat, and it's like the rhythm of the valve train. Sometimes that's what you have to think about when pinpointing a sound, the actual rhythm of the component.

Did all of the pushrod ends look polished without any scaring? Any groves cut into the rocker shaft?

If all looked good, take a high intensity mini mag light and try to look past the pushrods and oil passages, at the cam lobes for scaring. Try to look at the lobe for the fuel pump rod too.

I'm trying to think what would have starved for oil with the rocker shafts being mounted the way they were, for 200 miles. The only thing I'm thinking, would be the pushrod tips at the rocker.
Thinking of taking the intake and fuel pump off - maybe get a better look. Here's another video I took a few days ago.
 
An automotive stethoscope often times can help zero in on where an engine noise is coming from. They're not costly. I've had mine for years and have used it fairly often.
 
An automotive stethoscope often times can help zero in on where an engine noise is coming from. They're not costly. I've had mine for years and have used it fairly often.
Went to the auto parts store - picked one up. Came home, ripped open package. Started the car - waited 20 minutes because the noise only happens when it's hot. Side note - there is always that hope when I start it when cold and the noise is gone and will stay gone, it came back after 20 minutes of idling.
Got the stethoscope - started probing around everywhere on top, can only hear normal low clanking - or at least what I think is normal - and buzzing, nothing unusual and no squeak.
Jacked the car up, probed around the oil pan, block, starter, tranny - no squeal. Then - I took the probe behind the harmonic balancer, on the timing chain cover - BOOM - squealing like a pig, crystal clear through the stethoscope. My hope is something simple like the slinger or seal and not a rod bearing.

Getting ready to order some gaskets and an oil seal - hope for the best!!

Thanks
 
Looks like the kryslerkid get it. Sounds like that oil slinger is on backwards.
 
Well -- took everything apart - nothing obvious. Slinger was on correct way, no gouges or rubbing marks inside the cover..:wtf:
I'm certain that's where the noise is coming from. Also - drained the oil, no metallic flakes or anything. Fuel pump and rod all look good. The only thing - maybe. slinger rubbing on the oil seal??? New parts will be here tomorrow, should have it back together this wekend. Thanks
 
Well -- took everything apart - nothing obvious. Slinger was on correct way, no gouges or rubbing marks inside the cover..:wtf:
I'm certain that's where the noise is coming from. Also - drained the oil, no metallic flakes or anything. Fuel pump and rod all look good. The only thing - maybe. slinger rubbing on the oil seal??? New parts will be here tomorrow, should have it back together this wekend. Thanks

It's up to you, you might want to drop the pan and pull some bearing caps. You said the sound was right there.

Maybe pull the plugs and rotate engine by hand at the crank. Might hear something while doing that. I know it won't do it until it warms up good but you never know.
 
Drop the pan and look.
 
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