Standard Stroke 440 Build

[67 B-body]

Anyone build a performance standard stroke 440?
Show what you have, listing internal components, type of car it's in, weight of car, Best ET's with the configuration.... So on and so on.... You get the picture!
:worthless_thread:

 

[67 B-body]

Here's mine...1967 Satellite
Stock forged crank.
SCAT H-Beam rods with ARP fasteners.
Bored .030".
Forged Aluminum L2295F Pistons.
All balanced assy.
Stud mains with steel Girdle.
Clevite race bearings.
Fel-Pro .040" head gaskets.
Mellings HV oil Pump.
440 Victor PC heads.
Comp Cams Solid: ADV DUR 286int 296exh / lift @ 1.6 ratio .586"int .604"exh / Lobe sep 108°.
Holley 850 DP Carb.
Reverse flow cooling using adapter plate and a Chebby electric Water pump.
2" primary headers.

4 speed A833 transmission
8.75" rear end with 4.10 gears.
S/S leaf springs.

 

[Cranky]

68 Road Runner coupe
.030 over 440 block
forged stock crank
Hemi rods
Jahns pistons
ported 906 heads
Isky roller .660 lift 320 advertised duration
Weiand Tunnel Ram with 750 Holleys
727 manual VB 4500 stall
Dana 60 4.88's
ladder bars
10.55 best w/10.68 @126 consistently all year long.

 

[67 B-body]

Nice Cranky!

 

[67 B-body]

with heads on

 

[Stumper]

Here's my stock strok 440 :

- Block bored 0.030” over, deck shaved and squared, factory forged crank
- Manley H beam rods
- Forged aluminum Wiseco pistons PN K 373A3 – 12.5:1 compression
- T&D 1.6 ratio roller rocker assemblies PN TD8210 –
- CV Products push rods 9.600” length
- Lunati solid roller tappet cam – PN#53714LUN – 314 / 322 duration (278 / 286 @ 0.05”)
106 lobe separation ; .636/.636 lift ( total lift of .674” at 1.6 ratio and 0 lash)
- Felpro Head Gaskets – 0.40” pn 1009
- Competition Cam solid roller lifters – PN #829-16
- Valve Spring Ti Retainers – pn PBM2660
- Manley double valve springs - installed pressure 260 lbs @ 1.96” open height / open pressure 660 lbs
- Indy 440-4 4150 style high rise intake manifold (DC 12 cast on under side) gasket matched / polished.
- Indy 440-1 heads (DG ICH 440 cast inside) with full CNC porting on intake and exhaust
- Cloyes double roller timing chain set PN 9-3125.
- Meziere water pump – Model WP 106S – 35 gpm
- Milodon oil pan – PN#31420 – Pre 1965, 10 qts with center link tube, 9” sump depth,
swinging dual line pick up
- Milodon External dual feed Oil pump– PN # 21815 (19-21 GPM min.) w/ bronze gear
- Holley HP 4150 – 950 cfm carburetor PN 80496-1

Motor made just over 700 hp at 7350 rpm

 

[67 B-body]

WOW Stumper!
Very, Very Nice stuff!!!!!!! Top of the line hardware in that one!
I looked at using your water pump too.... I just thought the reverse flow idea looked interesting enough to try it out. It's cheap to do, the adapters can beas low as 40 bucks and Chevy parts are cheap! So if it doesn't work out like I want, it's not much of a loss...

 

[67 B-body]

Who made your valve covers Stumper? I see an awfull lot of Sheet Metal covers that look just like yours out their, and prices from way low to ridiculous high!
Thanks

 

[Stumper]

I bought the covers from the fellow that is running another mopar site. They were a "no named" version of some branded covers. They were fairly inexpensive but needed some finishing work on the bottoms and also needed some router touch up at the bolt holes to make them flat.

 

[67 B-body]

I bought the covers from the fellow that is running another mopar site. They were a "no named" version of some branded covers. They were fairly inexpensive but needed some finishing work on the bottoms and also needed some router touch up at the bolt holes to make them flat.

Gottcha....I kind of figured the lower the price, the more work needed to get them ready. Good news is, my time is cheaper than the higher price of some other name brand items. I read an artical about installing "a name brand" stud girdle, and the author had to file the mounting holes just to fit over the studs.
Mine was half the price and required the same work...??? Just goes to show that price doesn't always dictate quality or additional work needed before the item is usable.
Thanks!

 

[Meep-Meep]

Here's my grocery getter -

.030" over 77 block
Steel crank; balanced assembly
KB 237 pistons .015" below deck
MoPar .455" / 272 cam and 1.5:1 crane adjustable rockers
Pocket ported 915 heads with 2.14" / 1.81" valves
10.1:1 CR and 190 PSI of cranking pressure. Requires a couple of gals of 110 racing gas per 12 gals of 91.
First ran with M1 dual plane but now running factory iron intake
750 AFB carb
Orange box IGN with the old crusty black coil that came with the donor motor. Yeah, I'll change it eventually!
Hooker 2" primary with 3.5" collector
3" pipes out the back with Flowmasters
TCI 11" converter with 2400 stall

I ran a 13.38 @ 109 on real slippery street tires with 3.55 gears in a full bodied 66 Belvedere (estimated 3700 lb as raced). Air cleaner and exhaust were not removed/uncapped and all accessories operating.

 

[67 B-body]

Great Grocery getter Meep!
How are looks on faces from the kids with their sport "tuner" cars when you blow them away from the stop light

 

[67 B-body]

Stumper,,, Did you use any block fill?

 

[Stumper]

Nope, at least not that I am aware of. I had someone else do most of the build but we never discussed any fill so I'm sure he didn't. Everything was balanced of course, no girdle, other than the slight overbore and squaring up the deck that was about the extent of the machining. The block is a first "month" block. Cast in December 1965 and assembled (first time) in Feb. 1966.

 

[rich5]

whats block fill???and a girdle

 

[67 B-body]

whats block fill???and a girdle

Block fill is a mixed compound that you can pour into the water jacket of your block and it gets hard after it settles out. This is done typicaly two ways, a partial fill and a full fill, meaning you only fill the lower portion of you block and still use coolant to keep things at a lower temp. The other "full fill" is typicaly only done in a full race only application where no coolant or only head cooling is required.
The reason for doing this is to aid in stiffening the block "most commonly when over boring to large specs", and partial fills are commonly done to get the aid of stiffening the lower portion where high stress is placed in the mains and lower block area in high horsepower applications.
A stud girdle is seen in the picture of my lower end assy. It keeps the main bearing areas from shifting under high loads, "bearing cap walk". In higher load situations, the crank is thrusted forward and can place high stress in the main bearing locations and eventualy even fail. The girdle ties everything together spreading the high stress across the entire lower end including the oil pan fasteners, giving you less stress on the mains.
The short of it is to give the engine more durability.
Hope this helps explain things a bit.

 

[rich5]

ohhh i see thanks. so could you use fill on a block that runs or is drriven for a long period of time, or would it overheat??

 

[67 B-body]

A short fill would work, but I would only do it if neccesary "BIG power". Once it's in it will never be taken back out!
I did not fill mine, and decided to run the girdle.

 

[67 B-body]

Got my new Hueghs lifters and custom length pushrods last week. Rocker assy's should be here tomorrow. I should have the sheet metal aluminum valve covers the day after.

 

[67 B-body]

Just another picture of new valve covers.... cant see the Heughs face lube lifters in the bores.... but its in there!