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440 engine rear down. Anything worth keeping?

The crankshaft in your pics is a casting not a forging. The 69 is cast into it.
Probably has external counterweights on the damper and torque converter.
Make sure you have the right parts when the engine is balanced or it will vibrate badly.

Just use your original main caps.
 
Ok no worries. Do you think the caps are overkill?
Definitely getting the studs.
Yeah TF240. I want more get up and go then anything so I think they would be a better choice then the 270s?
I'm running a 6 pack intake to so hopefully this set up goes well with it. Need to find a cam that matches the 6 pack
Caps are overkill, especially with a six pack intake. The six pack intake looks super cool but it doesn't make as much power as a good single plane intake would. You'll want to keep the cam fairly small to work with the six pack carbs. If you don't keep the cam small then you have to recalibrate the carbs and that can be a problem since they aren't designed for that.
 
The crankshaft in your pics is a casting not a forging. The 69 is cast into it.
Probably has external counterweights on the damper and torque converter.
Make sure you have the right parts when the engine is balanced or it will vibrate badly.

Just use your original main caps.
That's a forged steel crank all day long. The "69" is a stamping, not a casting mark. Plus, the wide parting line is a giveaway.
 
Sweet. Not sure how hot you want this animal, but I did pretty much the same thing and wish I would have done it slightly differently... TF 270's as opposed to the 240's and 1.6 rockers, as opposed to the 1.5.

Just sharing.

Good luck! It's going to go great! You'll have a blast building it.
Why the change to 270s and 1.6?


Thanks. Looking forward to it.
 
The reciprocating assembly and heads have some value. I would rather sell them to someone who needs them than sell them for scrap…
 
I would keep the main caps if less than 700 HP. The cost of the machine work to install, bore, and align hone the billet caps can be $800+ in machine work.
Someone will want the crank, rods, oil pump shaft, and harmonic damper. Keep the valve covers, timing chain cover, oil pan/pickup, dist hold down, the straps that hold down the valley tray, brackets, spacers, and pulleys, and all the exterior bolts/nuts/washers.
I use the one piece composite windage tray that is also the oil pan gasket. When I did my 505, I used the 4.15" stroke version and it was very close to the rods.
Also used the orange rear main seals, and haven't had any oil leaks.
Current 512 is using the 440 source studs and girdle. The girdle will provide alot more crank/rod to windage tray clearance.
 
I would keep the main caps if less than 700 HP. The cost of the machine work to install, bore, and align hone the billet caps can be $800+ in machine work.
Someone will want the crank, rods, oil pump shaft, and harmonic damper. Keep the valve covers, timing chain cover, oil pan/pickup, dist hold down, the straps that hold down the valley tray, brackets, spacers, and pulleys, and all the exterior bolts/nuts/washers.
I use the one piece composite windage tray that is also the oil pan gasket. When I did my 505, I used the 4.15" stroke version and it was very close to the rods.
Also used the orange rear main seals, and haven't had any oil leaks.
Current 512 is using the 440 source studs and girdle. The girdle will provide alot more crank/rod to windage tray clearance.
Ok cool. That's a decent saving then.

Where did you get the windage tray from?

I was thinking of the Mancini rear main. Looks the goods.
How many HP is it putting out?

Ive been told I probably don't need a girdle.
 
There’s another member down under that just dropped a valve in his 440 and may be interested in your parts. I believe it’s @Roman1970RR

He is also looking for a reliable machine shop also if I recall correctly.
 
Stock main caps will work just fine. I built a 512 and used 250 shot of nitrous ... no issues with stock cap, also used windage tray .. but you should get a deep pan if you plan to race.
 
Nice I’ll be right behind you. Not sure exactly what I need yet but if we can salvage something between us might be easier than ordering from the states. I’m in Western Australia and will probably get my engine machined at gallways in Pinjarra

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Nice I’ll be right behind you. Not sure exactly what I need yet but if we can salvage something between us might be easier than ordering from the states. I’m in Western Australia and will probably get my engine machined at gallways in Pinjarra

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Oh cool, I lived up in Broome for a few years while I worked in the Pilbara, back over in QLD now.
What happened?
 
Oh cool, I lived up in Broome for a few years while I worked in the Pilbara, back over in QLD now.
What happened?
Looks like collet broke for some reason and the valve let go. Pretty unlucky but it did have average standard rockers. I’ve got another motor coming from nsw I hope I get what is promised. I will slowly rebuild my 440 over time so pretty interested to see how your build goes!
 

aussiewannabee69 Im a fellow Australian based in Sydney and could offer some advice and parts​

for your build. Feel free to pm me for my Number.
 
Don't know why you'd want to keep a set of knurled pistons, either. Rods, yes, knurled pistons, no.
 
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