If all else fails, start with the basic checks.
pull spark plugs and inspect they are not fowled or damaged.
run compression check of all the cylinders
verify TDC timing mark on damper
verify TDC compression. either cylinder pressure or after intake closes.
install distributor, and rotor will be whichever cap terminal it lines up with. If you want to change cap terminal location of #1 plug wire, re-index the oil pump drive.
verify the plug wires are good. (this one got me before. could see a weak spark, but woudn't run till changed out wires.
verify the cap and rotor are good, inspect inside of rotor also to make sure no arcing through it.
verify wires routed in the correct firing order counter clockwise on the cap.
check spark at coil, and that the points or ignition fire the coil. might try a spark gap tester to see how good the spark is, they are not expensive.
check spark while cranking too in case the ignition switch is bad.
At this point, with compression, ignition / ignition timing good, it should fire with just poring some fuel in the manifold.
If it fires, but won't stay running, try a temporary fuel system like a gas can with an electric fuel pump. If that works, the fuel system could have a crack and is sucking air, or could be plugged up, or pump problems.
On my cars, I have replaced the fuel tanks, pickup socks (if the pickup was still good), and ran new fuel lines.
A new Spectra Premium CR9 fuel tank is only $210.65 from Amazon.
new pre-bent stainless fuel lines are around $100, mild steel a bit cheaper, or make your own.