corunna bird
Well-Known Member
Yeah , I think if it was possible the best scenario would be two have a place to work and a place when your finished. So I guess we are both 50% there. Bruce
started 69 runner resto
- Thread starter corunna bird
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corunna bird
Well-Known Member
more progress
well, i installed the u.s car tool kit. fender bracing,tied the frames,rad support,torque boxes and moved the rear springs in. lot of grinding and welding but it turned out great, just laid the new fenders,hood and center grill in place to get a bit of modivation. here are some pics thx bruce
well, i installed the u.s car tool kit. fender bracing,tied the frames,rad support,torque boxes and moved the rear springs in. lot of grinding and welding but it turned out great, just laid the new fenders,hood and center grill in place to get a bit of modivation. here are some pics thx bruce
Propwash
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Looking sharp Bruce! Should turn on a dime with that custom unicycle steering system.:laughing7:
Deanfitz27
Well-Known Member
Nice job! Are those amd fenders and hood? If so how did they fit?
chapdog105
Member
You'll like those US Car Tool parts. I have the frame rail connectors on my 69 RR vert. It's nice to have that extra support!
corunna bird
Well-Known Member
thx guys, yeah deanfitz27 they are amd from roseville seem to fit ok i never spent much time screwing with them just put them on them on to have a look.
chapdog105 the stiffening kit went on real nice just a litte massaging here and there and im sure i will feel the difference for sure thx bruce
thx propwash yeah good for parallel parking.
chapdog105 the stiffening kit went on real nice just a litte massaging here and there and im sure i will feel the difference for sure thx bruce
thx propwash yeah good for parallel parking.
Deanfitz27
Well-Known Member
I'm also restoring a 69 rr, what type of gearbox or transmission are you using? I am thinking about a tremic 5 speed but still unsure.
corunna bird
Well-Known Member
well im waiting for the passon 5-speed i ordered for the challenger but i will probably just rebuild the 4-speed for the roadrunner but things can and will probably change before im at that point
corunna bird
Well-Known Member
looking at wheel and tires, wheel are billet specialties 15x12s-3-1/2 B.S and 15x8s-4-1/2-B.S. tires are hoosier 29x15x15.5 and 27x15x10.5. the front 10.5 seems wide but I don't like the look of a 26 inch tire on the front and the tread width is 8.5 so hopefully it will work. what's everyone's opinion on the wheels there is so many it gets nuts after while looking at them thx bruce
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Propwash
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I like'em! Looks like a billet relative of the weld prostars, with a bit more style.
northerndave
Well-Known Member
That's a lotta tire.
Badass for sure. I didn't catch the plans for rear axle? moved the springs in and mini tubbed, are you narrowing a D60? Or just moving the springs and going with an offset wheel?
Badass for sure. I didn't catch the plans for rear axle? moved the springs in and mini tubbed, are you narrowing a D60? Or just moving the springs and going with an offset wheel?
corunna bird
Well-Known Member
thx guys, yeah propwash they are close to the prostars. I have the rear axel so I could install it and see what I would need for back-space or narrow the 8-3/4 buy axles I guess. not sure if the wheels come with enough B.S for me not to narrow the rear. The springs are moved so there is quite a bit of room in there now, with out trimming the lips there is about 16.5 inches. what do you guys think I should do? I guess it depends on the max B.S I can get. thx bruce
- - - Updated - - -
hey, I looked and they do have those wheels 15x12s with 6.50 and 7.50 B.S would be a lot less pain in the butt if I did not have to narrow the rear. do you guys think they would work? thx for you help bruce
northerndave
Well-Known Member
Just from my own research on wheel/tire combos for rear on 69 road runners, I came to find that zero offset was the key to exploring the full stock tire width limits on an un altered wheel house and with springs in stock location. In stock form, you basically fill the void between outer wheel house limits and the leafs themselves which were the inner limit. And you centered it between those limits with zero offset.
That being said, I would assume you will want the 7.5" BS (or more), which in theory would leave 4.5" to the outside on a 12" wide wheel.
A 9" wheel will fit in stock form, some have pulled off the 10" with no real wheel house mods other than to maybe roll the lip. But zero offset means 4.5" or 5" out in either case. I don't know how far you moved the leafs in? If you slid them in 2" then I would think you should be able to clear the 7.5" to the inside of hub face, assuming the tire profile on that rim doesn't sidewall bulge a ridiculous amount.
That being said, I would assume you will want the 7.5" BS (or more), which in theory would leave 4.5" to the outside on a 12" wide wheel.
A 9" wheel will fit in stock form, some have pulled off the 10" with no real wheel house mods other than to maybe roll the lip. But zero offset means 4.5" or 5" out in either case. I don't know how far you moved the leafs in? If you slid them in 2" then I would think you should be able to clear the 7.5" to the inside of hub face, assuming the tire profile on that rim doesn't sidewall bulge a ridiculous amount.
corunna bird
Well-Known Member
yeah I did put the springs directly under the frames so it's more like 3"s. looks like it would be close so may have do a mock up. here is the link to the wheels and it shows the offset as well not sure if it will help me or not. thanks for your help on this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsp-rs035126575n
northerndave
Well-Known Member
I think you really kind of have to go by offset rather than a "backspacing" measurement when you are threading a needle, so to speak.
"Offset" speaks to true center of wheel. If you look at the particular wheel info you show in your link, the "backspacing" might lead you to believe you are offset 1.5", beings it says 7.5" backspacing... and you are thinking "ok, 12 minus 7.5 equals 4.5, so I'm good, 4.5" out from the hub face, that should clear."
But that 12" wide rim is probably closer to 13" wide total, it's probably 12" wide bead face to bead face.
The "offset" says 25mm (just shy of an inch).
I'd be a little concerned about outer sidewall clearance with this wheel and that big ole tire (running stock rear axle width). It would be like running a 10" wide rim on a bone stock car with zero offset, you'll be crowding the outside limits (I think)
On the outside clearance, you can address the lip clearance by trimming or rolling a bit, but depending on your plans for stance, you will rub on the wall of the outer wheel house above the lip if you plan on sitting the back down over the tires very much.
Take a straight edge and rest it on the lip (pinch weld where outer wheel house meets quarter arch) and you will see that the stock outer wheel wall house tapers in towards the trunk. If memory serves correct, only about 2" above the "lip" the outer wheel house wall is about plum with the lip itself, above 2" it tapers in a bit more. If you want to allow for bump squat or nasty vicious mopar launch squat... or planning on running a bit lowered, the lip is not necessarily the outer limit. The deeper you sink the tire up into the wheel house, the outer wheel house wall itself becomes the outer limit (clearance wise).
I hope that made some sense.... I lack in descriptive writing and talking skills so I tend to "talk with my hands", and you can't see me, so...
lmao!
"Offset" speaks to true center of wheel. If you look at the particular wheel info you show in your link, the "backspacing" might lead you to believe you are offset 1.5", beings it says 7.5" backspacing... and you are thinking "ok, 12 minus 7.5 equals 4.5, so I'm good, 4.5" out from the hub face, that should clear."
But that 12" wide rim is probably closer to 13" wide total, it's probably 12" wide bead face to bead face.
The "offset" says 25mm (just shy of an inch).
I'd be a little concerned about outer sidewall clearance with this wheel and that big ole tire (running stock rear axle width). It would be like running a 10" wide rim on a bone stock car with zero offset, you'll be crowding the outside limits (I think)
On the outside clearance, you can address the lip clearance by trimming or rolling a bit, but depending on your plans for stance, you will rub on the wall of the outer wheel house above the lip if you plan on sitting the back down over the tires very much.
Take a straight edge and rest it on the lip (pinch weld where outer wheel house meets quarter arch) and you will see that the stock outer wheel wall house tapers in towards the trunk. If memory serves correct, only about 2" above the "lip" the outer wheel house wall is about plum with the lip itself, above 2" it tapers in a bit more. If you want to allow for bump squat or nasty vicious mopar launch squat... or planning on running a bit lowered, the lip is not necessarily the outer limit. The deeper you sink the tire up into the wheel house, the outer wheel house wall itself becomes the outer limit (clearance wise).
I hope that made some sense.... I lack in descriptive writing and talking skills so I tend to "talk with my hands", and you can't see me, so...
lmao!
corunna bird
Well-Known Member
I think you really kind of have to go by offset rather than a "backspacing" measurement when you are threading a needle, so to speak.
"Offset" speaks to true center of wheel. If you look at the particular wheel info you show in your link, the "backspacing" might lead you to believe you are offset 1.5", beings it says 7.5" backspacing... and you are thinking "ok, 12 minus 7.5 equals 4.5, so I'm good, 4.5" out from the hub face, that should clear."
But that 12" wide rim is probably closer to 13" wide total, it's probably 12" wide bead face to bead face.
The "offset" says 25mm (just shy of an inch).
I'd be a little concerned about outer sidewall clearance with this wheel and that big ole tire (running stock rear axle width). It would be like running a 10" wide rim on a bone stock car with zero offset, you'll be crowding the outside limits (I think)
On the outside clearance, you can address the lip clearance by trimming or rolling a bit, but depending on your plans for stance, you will rub on the wall of the outer wheel house above the lip if you plan on sitting the back down over the tires very much.
Take a straight edge and rest it on the lip (pinch weld where outer wheel house meets quarter arch) and you will see that the stock outer wheel wall house tapers in towards the trunk. If memory serves correct, only about 2" above the "lip" the outer wheel house wall is about plum with the lip itself, above 2" it tapers in a bit more. If you want to allow for bump squat or nasty vicious mopar launch squat... or planning on running a bit lowered, the lip is not necessarily the outer limit. The deeper you sink the tire up into the wheel house, the outer wheel house wall itself becomes the outer limit (clearance wise).
I hope that made some sense.... I lack in descriptive writing and talking skills so I tend to "talk with my hands", and you can't see me, so...
lmao!
yes It makes perfect sense, you explained it very well even without seeing your hands flailing around lol. I think with it needing to be right on I should just do what I did with my challenger and order the wheels&tires mock them up in there and then measure for the axle length it worked out perfect and I guess that way I could keep them as close as I like against the inside which is flat along the side not like the other where it slopes in toward the trunk, just have to narrow the rear but at least I know it will be good. thx again for all your help bruce
northerndave
Well-Known Member
Well, good luck. You can do quite a bit of simulation with a tape measure and a level/square while the car is sitting level with the axle mounted too..
Looks like a rock solid car to start out with.
Looks like a rock solid car to start out with.
corunna bird
Well-Known Member
yeah, I will do some measuring before I order anything just to be safe. I will keep the post up as I go. thanks again bruce
GearAddict
Well-Known Member
Love it, great looking car.
corunna bird
Well-Known Member
hey thx gearaddict do you have pics of your car on here? thx bruce
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