i have charged it, and whacked on the starter. The flywheel may have a broken tooth, but it has only refused to start once before. New aftermarket starter. Any hints appreciatged!
Starter clicks despite 12.4v.
- Thread starter Geff McCarthy
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check all connection, I had a bad connection on my ground posr at battery. Chased it for a couple days,it looked clean. 
Cable corrosion inside, poor crush on ends. Lot junk out there. Internal connection. inside starter stud is a copper washer that wears on stud side causes a bad connection. Take starter apart and flip over the washer, if the stud is beat up may not work.
Its not unusual to get a bad starter these days. I had a starter for my Roadrunner that was not engaging completely from day one and eventually didn't engage at all.
Then recently on my 2022
ram 3500 had a starter quit completely at 12000 miles.
Then recently on my 2022
ram 3500 had a starter quit completely at 12000 miles.
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Just hit it with a booster pack AT the starter and drop the guess work. It's that simple..
Sounds like a bad connection or bad cable. Could be either positive or negative.
terrywalker
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What happens when you jumper across the starter relay posts?
Terry W.
Terry W.
Did you figure it out?
If it cranks then you likely have a bad starter relay. Your bypassing it's normal functionality.
i put it on the charger overnight, and...no problem! Thanks for advice; I think I will try a proper diagnosis if it acts up again.
OP - was it originally a cold start or hot motor start condition?
Cold start.
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Or get a new battery. Kim
Any updates? Did you find the problem?
Thanks. No, it has worked so far...
Rishi
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in my experience, anything above 10V cranks just fine. But 13V is always welcome, too.
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After you check for the obvious....loose or corroded battery terminal and connections, starter relay, bad ground connections, as the starter relay just switches the solenoid current, NOT STARTER CURRENT....but almost EVERYONE forgets the main high current contact is the starter solenoid's main current carrying contact disc and the two contacts at the back of the starter solenoid. These contacts and moving disc and the two stationary contacts, switch approximately 300 -400 amps every time the engine is cranked...more in cold weather, with high compression and high viscosity oil. There are no arc suppression coils or arc blowout chutes associated with these main contacts and arcing deteriorates these components fairly quickly.....especially with numerous attempts. It would be my suggestion to pull the starter assembly and replace the moving contact disc and dress rhe two stationary contacts to remove the arc erosion and corrosion. You'll be surprised at how much arc erosion has occurred over the years.....most of the time, the moving disc contact will be almost burned away........and what is left cannot carry the 300-400 amps armature current required for starting.......the starter motor is a series wound motor and draws max amps at locked rotor condition (as in starting)........just my opinion of course......check all connection, I had a bad connection on my ground posr at battery. Chased it for a couple days,it looked clean.
BOB RENTON
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