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Steering Column Too Short by 1/2”

As fat as I can yell
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Steering box ?????? Any measurements you need from me just let me know.
Thanks Charles. Shot of my steering box. I assume it’s original but I am no expert. I doubt these get replaced very often I would bet its original.

I assume there is no way to adjust the mounting of these boxes? If I could move it rearward by 1/2 inch I would be set!

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If I could move it rearward by 1/2 inch I would be set!
Uhhh...You aren't too familiar with bump steer and geometry, are you?
You are making this much harder than necessary. Pull the column and extend the intersection of the inner and outer shafts. You can have this out, extended and back in within an hour.
 
Uhhh...You aren't too familiar with bump steer and geometry, are you?
You are making this much harder than necessary. Pull the column and extend the intersection of the inner and outer shafts. You can have this out, extended and back in within an hour.
No I’ve never messed with the column other than the coupler. Sounds easy enough. So will there be a lot of resistance in the separation? What holds them in place just the plastic sheer pins?

I’ll try that tomorrow!
 
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By "geometry", I mean the relationship between the placement of the steering box, Pitman arm, the sweep of it in relation to the idler arm and center link, the tie rod sleeves and lower ball joint steering arms. All of that needs to be in reasonably close alignment for the car to steer right and track straight, especially on bumpy roads.
Moving the steering box rearward by even 1/2" can have negative effects on how it feels.
You did bodywork and painted the car. You've done other things. Even if you're not experienced with everything, it is clear that you have the drive to jump in and do things. That is respectable. You can do this, it is well within your skill set.
 
By "geometry", I mean the relationship between the placement of the steering box, Pitman arm, the sweep of it in relation to the idler arm and center link, the tie rod sleeves and lower ball joint steering arms. All of that needs to be in reasonably close alignment for the car to steer right and track straight, especially on bumpy roads.
Moving the steering box rearward by even 1/2" can have negative effects on how it feels.
You did bodywork and painted the car. You've done other things. Even if you're not experienced with everything, it is clear that you have the drive to jump in and do things. That is respectable. You can do this, it is well within your skill set.
Thanks for the encouragement, KD! With your help and the rest of the team here I know I’ll get this sorted out!
 
Does anyone have an exploded view of a 1970 bbody steering column? Or tell me where it is in the FSM?
All that I see in the FSM is the assembled unit (below). I want to see how the shaft is mounted and bearing locations and c-clips etc. i need to understand how this assembly work’s physically so I can figure out how to elongate it by 1/2 inch.
This is all I see and its not enough. I don’t want to break it down without any drawings.

Thanks MF

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You really don't need to take it apart. Remove the column, tap steering shaft out (towards the box if on the car). Reinstall.
 
You really don't need to take it apart. Remove the column, tap steering shaft out (towards the box if on the car). Reinstall.
What about the bearing in the top of the column? Will that come out as well with the shaft?
 
What about the bearing in the top of the column? Will that come out as well with the shaft?
No. The steering wheel will hold the upper portion tight provided you have the wheel retaining nut on. Also, the shaft is two pieces. The upper shaft should stay put, lower should extend. If you go thru Dadsbee's restoration post he goes into great detail about how the upper and lower shafts are connected.
 
Not sure what you are working on but, 68/69 steering shafts are 41.4" (PS), 44.5" (Non PS) You can get a very, very rough measurement while still in the car.
 
Not sure what you are working on but, 68/69 steering shafts are 41.4" (PS), 44.5" (Non PS) You can get a very, very rough measurement while still in the car.
1970 Sport Satellite
 
So this is my plan.

I will remove the column.

Leaving it intact I will try and pull/tap/whack the lower shaft out of the upper shaft towards what would be the front of the car thereby extending the total shaft length by what I need (which is a 1/2”).

Am I correct in assuming that the plastic shear pins are not really needed to hold the two shafts in place? And running with no pins is ok?
 
Ron, I mentioned this before. It was on the first page, post #12.
 
Wow awesome Charles! Thanks so much for taking the time to help me with this!
The more you blow them up on the forum the more blurry they get. If you PM me a cell number I’ll be glad to text the pictures to you. Thanks Mike. Or Charles, I go by Mike.Either one is good.
 
As I said earlier you should be able to make it move, if it's collapsed, in the car. Loosen off the three retainer nuts, the two bolts at the firewall. Get someone to hold back hard on the wheel (hands close in by the hub) all while you do the vise grip and 5 lb forward swing.
 
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