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Stellantis Brings The HEMI Back !!

There were 2 Hurricane engines that ran in Sick Week.
One was in a older D series square body pick-up and the other was in a 90's Dakota.
Both set-ups ran in the 10's with the Dakota pulling off a 9.98 on the final day.
Quite the thrashing and they didn't miss a beat.
 
There were 2 Hurricane engines that ran in Sick Week.
One was in a older D series square body pick-up and the other was in a 90's Dakota.
Both set-ups ran in the 10's with the Dakota pulling off a 9.98 on the final day.
Quite the thrashing and they didn't miss a beat.
Good to hear. Theybare releasing the 6 pack charger with the hurricane engine in a higher hp version.
 
For what it is worth I just received an ad from Mancini Racing that they are selling off brand new 5.7 Hemi blocks for $1,200.00 each. Sounds just like what happened when they ended production of the big block and short blocks and 452 heads flooded the market.
 
For everyday transportation without any heavy hauling the Hurricane is probably fine, if RAM can fix the engine management and wiring harness defects. It’s mostly the guys who do a lot of hauling/towing or V8 die hards who will never be happy with it. I seem to be hearing a lot about side issues with direct injection engines with deposits and particulate matter in the exhaust. Makes me wonder if that particulate matter could wear on turbo seals?? But, I don’t think diesel turbos seem to suffer from that issue - do they?
 
Turbos are typically void of any deposits. They stay hot enough that nothing can really settle in there. I always idle a turbo engine for 60 seconds or so before shutting off, just to let any "rich" exhaust exit the housing so nothing is in there as the turbo cools, which could cause "coking" (buildup).

The deposits in direct injected vehicles occur because there is no liquid fuel passing the intake valve face, to clean it. Fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber, not into the intake manifold where it would have to pass the valve to get to the chamber. This dry intake and valve setup can cake up with soot, since there's no constant fuel "rinse".

The problem is compounded by EGR valves, which can reroute exhaust soot back into the chamber via the (now dry) intake and valves, allowing buildup.

If you've ever had a smog-era car with an EGR valve, and pulled the valve, I'm sure you found soot and carbon buildup in the valve...but only a black oily coating in the intake and on the valves. That's the difference fuel makes. The new direct-injected engines? That soot is everywhere on the intake side.

I just did a service on my Cummins. 2001, 284k miles. Checked the turbo shaft play...zero wiggle.
 
Do they specify GF-6 be used?

Get Ready for GF-6 Motor Oil | ILSAC | Gasoline Engines

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Just ran across it. I know absolutely zero about it.
That was a 2020 change, and isn't designed for intake soot. "Sludge and varnish" is on oiled items like - in old V8 terms - rocker arms and pushrods. Items that are purposely in an oil bath.

The intake buildup issue with direct injection isn't oil-based, it's exhaust-soot-based. Go cold-start your Mopar and stick your hand over the tailpipe right after a start, you'll see the soot on your hand. EGR recirculates that back into the engine, especially during cold-start, in order to get the engine up to (emissions) temperature faster and out of cold-start mode ("turns the choke off faster").

A carbureted or mulitpoint-injected (or throttle body injected) engine mixes liquid fuel with the air in the intake, effectively "rinsing" that soot as the engine breathes. Direct injected engines do not - they have dry intakes because the fuel is introduced directly into the combustion chamber and it never sees the intake manifold (or the intake valves). This dry condition is what allows the buildup.

When I was in the service lane we had a TON of issues with it on Mazdas, VWs (esp. TDI), and some of the smaller GM motors. If you have a direct-injected motor and your advisor recommends a walnut-shell cleaning...they aren't bullshitting you. The intake gets pulled and cleaned if needed, and the intake ports in the head are blasted with walnut shell media (with all the intake valves closed) to remove the gunk. It is then vacuumed out and reassembled. Think "sandblasting your intake valves"...but with a media that won't hurt anything if they don't vacuum out every last micron when they're done.

The buildup can cause poor performance through valve stiction, restricted airflow, and lack of valve to seat sealing because of the buildup.

1738867126488.png


There are also chemicals you can spray in the throttle body as the engine is running, in between walnut cleanings, to help remove smaller amounts of buildup as a maintenance "thing". The chemical won't do much if you already have enough buildup to cause a running problem, but if you spray it every oil change it'll help keep it from getting to that point in the first place.
 
That was a 2020 change, and isn't designed for intake soot. "Sludge and varnish" is on oiled items like - in old V8 terms - rocker arms and pushrods. Items that are purposely in an oil bath.

The intake buildup issue with direct injection isn't oil-based, it's exhaust-soot-based. Go cold-start your Mopar and stick your hand over the tailpipe right after a start, you'll see the soot on your hand. EGR recirculates that back into the engine, especially during cold-start, in order to get the engine up to (emissions) temperature faster and out of cold-start mode ("turns the choke off faster").

A carbureted or mulitpoint-injected (or throttle body injected) engine mixes liquid fuel with the air in the intake, effectively "rinsing" that soot as the engine breathes. Direct injected engines do not - they have dry intakes because the fuel is introduced directly into the combustion chamber and it never sees the intake manifold (or the intake valves). This dry condition is what allows the buildup.

When I was in the service lane we had a TON of issues with it on Mazdas, VWs (esp. TDI), and some of the smaller GM motors. If you have a direct-injected motor and your advisor recommends a walnut-shell cleaning...they aren't bullshitting you. The intake gets pulled and cleaned if needed, and the intake ports in the head are blasted with walnut shell media (with all the intake valves closed) to remove the gunk. It is then vacuumed out and reassembled. Think "sandblasting your intake valves"...but with a media that won't hurt anything if they don't vacuum out every last micron when they're done.

The buildup can cause poor performance through valve stiction, restricted airflow, and lack of valve to seat sealing because of the buildup.

View attachment 1801457

There are also chemicals you can spray in the throttle body as the engine is running, in between walnut cleanings, to help remove smaller amounts of buildup as a maintenance "thing". The chemical won't do much if you already have enough buildup to cause a running problem, but if you spray it every oil change it'll help keep it from getting to that point in the first place.
Good post. But I've never heard of the running the egr during cold start. Egr knocks down the combustion temps when hot cruising for NOX. But I'm open minded to a new philosophy
 
Good post. But I've never heard of the running the egr during cold start. Egr knocks down the combustion temps when hot cruising for NOX. But I'm open minded to a new philosophy
Opening the EGR during a cold start enables quicker warm-up and fuel evaporation as hot exhaust gasses mix with the cooler intake air.
 
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