Subwoofer advice...

[mosquito13]

Good deal! I'm so sick of the ones that like to rattle everything in a 1000 mile radius! I have found out that most of them do NOT like someone racking off a straight pipe exhaust system when they pull up beside ya at a traffic light. They usually turn it down pretty damn fast but there's not much that can be done when they drive by the house. Luckily, I live on a dead end street so there's not much traffic and when they do come in, I can freak them out with a 12ga on their way out

Electric cutouts and a old school flame thrower kit shuts that nonsense down . The difference between a hooligan and a punk .

 

[wsutard]

Not sure if the OP has made any purchase but here are my two cents.

1. Go with JL stuff. For the piece of mind. Great quality that you won't have to worry about. For beginners it's an easy decision to make. There is better stuff out there. Even cheaper but they provide a really nice point.

2. Make sure your highs and mids can keep up with your new found bass. Many times people will add bass and it will over power their existing highs and mids. For rock, I would focus on getting the highs and mids on point (the kids say on fleek) first. In rock there is a lot of mids. Something like a quality 6.5 would do well.

3. If you are serious about the sound, go with a component set. Not a 2 or 3 way. Something that tires to be three things is never as good as those things separately. The quality of the crossover will tell you the quality of the set. Small plastic thing with flimsy speaker terminals = low quality.

4. Let's talk sub. Want tight bass in a small package? Go with a sealed box about 1 cubic foot. Find a 10" JL sub in your price range that specs for a 1 cubic foot sealed box. They list the needed airspace in their specs. I personally have a JL10w7v2 in a .60 CU Ft box under the rear seat in my Ram Crew Cab.

5. Amps. If you do it right you need 5 total channels. (Some people will say you don't need rears so that would mean 3 channels. Stick with D series. D stands for digital. They are smaller and take less power. I would personally run two amps. One for the front and rear and one for the sub. Most 5 or 6 channel amps can't output the kind of power you need for a sub. The ones that can are spendy. Your highs and mids need to be the best amp for quality of sound. Your sub needs power over quality. JL XDv2 for the front and JX for the sub would work well and save you some money. If you go with a 5 channel amp then the last channel will be sub specific. If you go with a 6 channel then you will take your last two and bridge them together to combine their power and run it to the sub. Same with a 4 channel, you just won't run rears then.

6. Wiring is essential. Is your power cable large enough for the draw? Your negative needs to be the same size. Run the negative right back to the battery since its in the trunk. Also, is your battery up to snuff? Subs draw a lot of juice in bursts. This is sometimes over the extent of the amount your battery can give out at once. This is the cause for your lights dimming with the music. Best way to combat this is to get a good battery, make sure the cables from the alternator and the battery ground and more than adequate. They should be large.

I probably forgot something. Also sure that some people will disagree with things I stated. Such is life on the edge!

 

[wsutard]

Electric cutouts and a old school flame thrower kit shuts that nonsense down . The difference between a hooligan and a punk .

Wait, which one is the hooligan and which one is the punk?

What if they are pounding the bass while reving on cutouts and flame?

I think that person is called....awesome.

 

[747mopar]

Not 100% certain yet. Had my power steering box take a poop so that delayed the added woofers, back to looking.

Thanks for the advice wsutard, I feel like I've already got a pretty nice setup with 6X9 and 6.5 Polks ran off of a 4 channel Power Ordnance amp (very clear and loud). I'm really liking the idea of a powered box where it's all one package but not a big bazooka, I'm leaning towards the Rockford Fosgate P300-10. I've always been very pleased with the Fosgate amps and the P300-10 has great reviews??? Seams like a good price for a top quality woofer-amp combo.

 

[kiwigtx]

hey man....why do want to waste hard earned cash on a fancy-pants Sub-woofer....when you can build your own including a stereo player for under $50...YES 50 bucks



You'll notice that the electro-static mat is is stealth mode whilst soldering the voltage regulator.

 

[747mopar]

hey man....why do want to waste hard earned cash on a fancy-pants Sub-woofer....when you can build your own including a stereo player for under $50...YES 50 bucks



You'll notice that the electro-static mat is is stealth mode whilst soldering the voltage regulator.

Sorry but it has to be presentable too! Those guys are some real goof balls but that is pretty cool although I question the sound quality?

 

[747mopar]

This has me thinking?? The price worries me but supposedly it's a German made product and has some really good reviews. It's Crutchfields brand, I'm running one of their amps and really like it. The 8" woofer should be very responsive to the drums and at that price you can't go wrong. Not looking for a booming system just wanting to pick the bass up a notch. Just thinking

 

[kiwigtx]

Sorry but it has to be presentable too! Those guys are some real good balls but that is pretty cool although I question the sound quality?

...but they made an allowance for defracting 8% of the distortion with that wedge cut on the casing....(the part that makes your bowels uncontrollable)

 

[wsutard]

View attachment 351173

This has me thinking?? The price worries me but supposedly it's a German made product and has some really good reviews. It's Crutchfields brand, I'm running one of their amps and really like it. The 8" woofer should be very responsive to the drums and at that price you can't go wrong. Not looking for a booming system just wanting to pick the bass up a notch. Just thinking

Price is right. The size isn't. Looks like a rather large box for a 8". I'm a stealth kind of guy myself. If you have your spare look into a spare tire box that holds an 8".

 

[Mike67]

View attachment 351173

This has me thinking?? The price worries me but supposedly it's a German made product and has some really good reviews. It's Crutchfields brand, I'm running one of their amps and really like it. The 8" woofer should be very responsive to the drums and at that price you can't go wrong. Not looking for a booming system just wanting to pick the bass up a notch. Just thinking

I know you were wanting something astheically appealing and not to intrusive so you might want to look at this...A buddy of mine had one in a 442 mounted in the trunk and it sounded pretty good...
https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Basslink-200-Watt-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B000063TJY

 

[747mopar]

Price is right. The size isn't. Looks like a rather large box for a 8". I'm a stealth kind of guy myself. If you have your spare look into a spare tire box that holds an 8".

No spare, I made sure my insurance has free towing . I'm no expert but have read the bandpass boxes work really well? I'm hesitant to buy something at that price but at that price I can just throw it in my daily driver if it doesn't cut it. I can buy a 10" Polk, Fosgate or Kicker and an amp for $150-$200 so I may still go that route but I'm cutious about 8"? Seams like they'd be very responsive for the music I listen to?

 

[747mopar]

I know you were wanting something astheically appealing and not to intrusive so you might want to look at this...A buddy of mine had one in a 442 mounted in the trunk and it sounded pretty good...
https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Basslink-200-Watt-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B000063TJY

Appealing isn't really a concern or hiding it for that matter, my trunk is finished with upholstered panels and there's a hidden compartment over the axle that nobody will ever see. I looked at those but think the woofers mounted in a box would be better since I have the space.

 

[wsutard]

No spare, I made sure my insurance has free towing . I'm no expert but have read the bandpass boxes work really well? I'm hesitant to buy something at that price but at that price I can just throw it in my daily driver if it doesn't cut it. I can buy a 10" Polk, Fosgate or Kicker and an amp for $150-$200 so I may still go that route but I'm cutious about 8"? Seams like they'd be very responsive for the music I listen to?

Bandpass boxes will hit harder than sealed, but are much larger. If you don't mind what it looks like throwing together a sealed box isn't that hard. Figure out the sealed box air volume of the sub you want, slap it together with MDF, screw and glue the seams. Fill with Polly fill, done. Or buy one off Crutchfield or at your local audio store.

I agree that 8" aren't optimal. I would go 10" for your music. Maybe even two. If you put it in the trunk then you Have a lot of cabin and trunk volume you need to pump with sound.

I personally like having the sub in the cab because it doesn't need to be as powerful. I was under the dash the other day and thought that there might be enough space under the passenger side area to put a custom box if you removed the glove box.

 

[747mopar]

Thanks, finally made up my mind. I'm buying a Polk 10" (270 rms) and a Rockford Fosgate 300 watts mono amp and building my own box. That outta do it!

 

[747mopar]

Man, there's a lot more to this stuff than I thought..... watts rms, 2ohm, 4ohm, single voice coil, dual voice coil, mono amps, 2 channel, bridging....... After much reading I think I have it down, I'm buying a dual 4ohm voice coil Polk 10" woofer that's 270 watts rms and a 2 ohm Fockford Fosgate 300 watt rms amp and believe this is how to properly wire it??? If I'm understanding correctly running it at 2 ohms gets the most out of it?? Am I missing anything?

 

[wsutard]

Man, there's a lot more to this stuff than I thought..... watts rms, 2ohm, 4ohm, single voice coil, dual voice coil, mono amps, 2 channel, bridging....... After much reading I think I have it down, I'm buying a dual 4ohm voice coil Polk 10" woofer that's 270 watts rms and a 2 ohm Fockford Fosgate 300 watt rms amp and believe this is how to properly wire it??? If I'm understanding correctly running it at 2 ohms gets the most out of it?? Am I missing anything?


View attachment 351661

You are thinking correctly. Follow the diagram and you will be good. Looks like the specs for airspace are 1.17 sqft. http://www.polkaudio.com/db1040dvc/d/1084

I bet you could get away with 1 sqft sealed box and put some Polly fill in there. Enough to to fill the void but still leave room for the woofer and not packed too tight.
Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber, White, 1 Bag, 12-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YZ7G44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YMxMxbV7Z627F

You could also go with this box and save some time. I can't speak to the quality but it has a lot of reviews.
Atrend E10Sv B Box Series 10-Inch Single Vented Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013MWT9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pOxMxbS3394JQ

If you are going to build your own then the key is sealing it up good. All the seams should get glued. Interior seams should be caulked. Use a stick on weather strip to seal between the sub frame and the wood/carpet when you fasten it. (Carpet is pure looks)

 

[747mopar]

Finally finished the install, ended up having to build my own box... that combined with not having any time drug it out. Anyways here it is, I needed the box wider than normal for neatly mounting the amps on the back so why not a compartment for routing and storing the excess RCA wires, etc. I hit the dimensions on the money getting the recommended cubic feet and so far am very happy with it, it's louder than I'll ever be willing to crank it..

This box fit's neatly on top of the rear axle hump underneath the package tray taking up no trunk space too.

 

[Lionized]

Is that open cavity your port?

 

[747mopar]

Is that open cavity your port?

No, I wanted both amps mounted facing back so I could easily adjust them so the box was made wide enough for both to fit back there. The speaker box is sealed and then a compartment beside it (the square hole) for wire routing and storage. It works out nice for keeping the wires cleaned up and has entrance and exit holes for routing wires out of sight. The speaker box is .66 cubic feet sealed for clean bass, it really finished off the sterio well.