TexasRoadRunner68
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Supposedly an OK car for its whole life. Hard to assess the total rust with the interior in and all the dirt, pieces of carpet etc. More solid than my 68 by a good bit.
Supposedly a 70 RT track pack car, any input on errors or value?
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Supposedly an OK car for its whole life. Hard to assess the total rust with the interior in and all the dirt, pieces of carpet etc. More solid than my 68 by a good bit.
Personally, I prefer 68's over the other 2 years, but this is a 4-speed which carries a lot of weight in my world. Just for reference, I paid 13500 for a 69 R/T 4 speed, all original except the motor in 2012. It was in worse condition than this 70 you are looking at. Spent 2 years doing the best I could restoring it. Changed the color from F3 green to black. Sold it a few years ago for 75K without tires and wheels. I had 69K into it plus a pile of my time. It had a fender tag - no build sheet.
TexasRoadRunner68
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69s might be more desirable than 70s...but more were made. And I know prices have gone up since 2012...I’m just trying to find out if this is just high. I’d do 15k all day lol...the Dana and trans are $5k ish.
I’m not sure if I can get a new fender tag if part of the build sheet is missing. I mean the numbers matching 4 speed is nice, factory non vinyl top, and non AC. I’m not as worried about the rust in the trunk or floors...I’m just not sure about the rot at the joints between panels. My super crusty 68 doesn’t even have that. But the roof, a pillars, rails and rear pan are all more solid looking. And the door and latch being welded are a bit different. I like the car itself, I’d just hate to overpay and regret it later if a ton more rust is underneath. I mean it’s a 4 speed RT, with the vin on there I’m sure that’s enough to verify it came with the Dana.
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TexasRoadRunner68
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How bad would is this likely to be once blasted? I really find it hard to tell on a white car, but rust is there.
Is there likely to be a second build sheet? This one is missing three rows...with no tag that kinda sucks.
I’m on the fence, since I’d be selling a car worth more lol. I have a lot of the sheetmetal on hand.
I would just wonder what the value would be once it was done right with the partial build sheet.
Is there likely to be a second build sheet? This one is missing three rows...with no tag that kinda sucks.
I’m on the fence, since I’d be selling a car worth more lol. I have a lot of the sheetmetal on hand.
I would just wonder what the value would be once it was done right with the partial build sheet.
4mulas
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There might be another build sheet perhaps above the glove box or the usual other places.... not trying to be a downer but the rust is almost always way worse than you would expect or hope for, even on rust free cars... if you have thick skin and as you said can do your own metal work go for it. Otherwise I’d hesitate. Value done, solely depends on what you do with it. These days it would be most valuable as high end resto mod pro tour type car but you will have big bucks into it also.....
TexasRoadRunner68
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I might just stick with my 68. It’s got rust, but at least I know where it’s at.
TexasRoadRunner68
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Sorry for the double post, just trying to get more input as I have to make a decision.
A guy is selling this R/T near me. He stated it was all solid but the windows and a small amount of rust in the quarters. It has the numbers matching 18 spline and original Dana, but no motor. Power steering with no AC. No fender tag. Factory hard top. Partial build sheet found under the rear seat, but the last few rows are gone. Owner states it’s solid, so I drove 4 hours to look. It didn’t help that it was wet when I checked it out, but it’s got some rust. My 68 has rot, but this has more rust around panel gaps. Rear window corners, rear lower plenum, center trunk pan, quarter panel work, probable the rear valance and corners. Owner states the floors were good, they look good underneath due to undercoating, but up top they have been sitting with the factory carpet and the shag carpet l. Looked decent with a small crusty area under the back seat. Rear footwells would need replacing. Possible front pan needed. The driver side took a hit at some point, and the door was cut and welded along with the latch in the door jam. A pillar/cowl seams have cracked and are rusty. Undercoating made assessing the rails a bit more difficult, but it looked solid. Hood frame underneath has some crustiness, concerning as it’s a one year item.
It’s definitely a bit tougher than I hoped. I’d have to sell one of my cars to buy it, and I’m not totally sure $25k is that much of a deal.
What price should I jump on this for?
A guy is selling this R/T near me. He stated it was all solid but the windows and a small amount of rust in the quarters. It has the numbers matching 18 spline and original Dana, but no motor. Power steering with no AC. No fender tag. Factory hard top. Partial build sheet found under the rear seat, but the last few rows are gone. Owner states it’s solid, so I drove 4 hours to look. It didn’t help that it was wet when I checked it out, but it’s got some rust. My 68 has rot, but this has more rust around panel gaps. Rear window corners, rear lower plenum, center trunk pan, quarter panel work, probable the rear valance and corners. Owner states the floors were good, they look good underneath due to undercoating, but up top they have been sitting with the factory carpet and the shag carpet l. Looked decent with a small crusty area under the back seat. Rear footwells would need replacing. Possible front pan needed. The driver side took a hit at some point, and the door was cut and welded along with the latch in the door jam. A pillar/cowl seams have cracked and are rusty. Undercoating made assessing the rails a bit more difficult, but it looked solid. Hood frame underneath has some crustiness, concerning as it’s a one year item.
It’s definitely a bit tougher than I hoped. I’d have to sell one of my cars to buy it, and I’m not totally sure $25k is that much of a deal.
What price should I jump on this for?
TexasRoadRunner68
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TexasRoadRunner68
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My '70 Charger had 2 complete broadcast sheets under the rear seat springs (1 for my car and 1 for a different car) and a partial broadcast for my car under one bucket seat.
You can use the information on the following website to decode the the handful of codes on the partial broadcast sheet:
http://1970chargerregistry.com/Production/rt_sheet_decoder.html
For example line 6 of the BS confirms:
A33 - Track Pak
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Did you check the number underneath the trunk weatherstrip?
70chall440
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Why are the prices of G2 Chargers this high? Because people keep spending big money on them. Sure I'd like to have a 70 but would NEVER spend that kind of money on a rusty roller. But thats ok, the restoration shops need the work and I am glad that there are people who can afford to spend that kind of money.
Damn, that's a lot of money for a car that rough. Unfortunately because what it is, if you don't buy it somebody else will. Personally I wouldn't give over 15K for it so it wouldn't be coming home with me....
A production date in July 1970 is a bit of a novelty. Production ran to July 10, 1970 which was a Friday.
http://1970chargerregistry.com/Production/rt_sheet_decoder.html
The Rebel
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Based on the sales price and what needs to be done I'd walk. To get this back on the road your looking to spend an additional 20k plus and a few years of restoration to gather up parts etc.
Good luck to anyone else who can find a 4 speed track pack Charger R/T in better shape for less money. Probably not going to happen in this day and age! It's 4 grand to buy a Dana 60,and an18 spline Hemi 4 speed transmission, and the ones matching numbers to the car is a big bonus, both of them are usually long gone on a project Charger R/T.
Here's my shots at it @TexasRoadRunner68
and it looks like a legitimate car with desirable options.
LINE 1 BASIC CAR
TBD
LINE 2 BASIC CAR
D56: Dana 60 Axle 3.54:1 Ratio (4-Speed)
D91: Sure Grip Differential
T87: F70x14 Raised White Lettering "Polyglas"
Trim C6K5: Burnt Orange Vinyl Buckets
FK5 Upper Door Frame (UDF)
V01 Paint Style (single tone paint job)
D91: Sure Grip Differential
T87: F70x14 Raised White Lettering "Polyglas"
Trim C6K5: Burnt Orange Vinyl Buckets
FK5 Upper Door Frame (UDF)
V01 Paint Style (single tone paint job)
LINE 3 BUILD CODES
STEERING COLUMN
315: 4 speed floor shift B-body steering column
K5: Burnt orange steering column
7005: Power steering ignition light with time delay steering column
08: Partial horn ring steering wheel
K5: Burnt orange steering wheel
HORN PADK5: Burnt orange steering column
7005: Power steering ignition light with time delay steering column
08: Partial horn ring steering wheel
K5: Burnt orange steering wheel
43: Partial horn ring pad
K5: Burnt orange horn Pad
K5: Burnt orange horn Pad
LINE 4 BUILD CODES
VAC
27: Manual brake
ENGINE114: 440 4BBL 4 speed
CARB53: Carter AVS 440 4bbl
TRANS676 - 426 HEMI / 440 4BBL / 440 SIX PACK PN3410676 4 SPEED
LINE 5 BUILD CODES
781 / 780 lt & rt heavy duty torsion bars
LINE 6 SALES CODES
COMBINATIONS
A01: Light Package
A33: Track Pack
CONSOLE - SEATS - BELTS - FLOORING C:A33: Track Pack
C16: Console
C23: Rear arm rests with ash trays
(std on R/T)
C23: Rear arm rests with ash trays
(std on R/T)
LINE 7 SALES CODES
TBD
LINE 8 SALES CODES
J MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS
J25: 3 speed wipers (std on R/T)
J31: Dual horns (std on R/T)
J64: Instrument panel w/grain (std on R/T)
J31: Dual horns (std on R/T)
J64: Instrument panel w/grain (std on R/T)
LINE 9 SALES CODES
TBD
LINE 10 SALES CODES
TBD
LINE 11 SALES CODES
TBD
__________________________________________
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What I like about it:
It is certainly worthy of saving.
- It's a '70 Charger R/T 440 4 speed track pack with sure grip. Say no more!
- It's white. (rarely seen one myself)
- No vinyl top.
- No stripes.
- The novelty of late production.
- Looks good underneath.
- Numbers matching engine is gone.
- Burnt orange interior (easily remedied)
- Rust in cowl area?
- Rust in sill areas?
- Those old weld repairs.
- The woodgrain instrument panel is gone. What else is lurking there? Probably doesn't matter since the whole dash assembly and instruments/wiring have to be restored anyway.
It is certainly worthy of saving.
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