Here's the simplified version;
Switched source isn't good enough for EFI? Lol
- Thread starter kaj750
- Start date
Lightbulb moment.
I was just here talking to somebody wondering if I had the function of the brown wire wrong. I assumed the brown wire had power coming from the resistor and going somewhere. Then we talked it through.
So:
The brown wire feeds the blue wire that it's connected to during cranking. During run time, that wire does nothing and the blue wire gets power from the other side of the resistor. In this case, my black wire.
Did I get it right??
You, sir, are a scholar and a gentleman LoL
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
As the diagram shows
Ballast gets two wires energized from Ign switch, one blue while key is in RUN and brown just cranking. And just one of them running to coil which is blue, spliced into the brown.
When key is in RUN, the blue wire feeds the ballast, and the wire to coil (also blue but on the other side of the ballast) gets powered THROUGHT the ballast, so a lower voltage rate.
When cranking, the ign switch feeds the brown wire, not anymore the blue RUN circuit. Since the blue wire to coil is spliced on the brown wire, it means the ign switch will feed the coil STRAIGHT from that splice, bypassing the ballast.
On both stages both sides of the ballast are energized since all are tied together thanks to the ballast itself, the difference is which side is feeded from ign switch and running to coil, making the opposite side to get energized with a lower voltage rate
Post in thread 'msd stand alone issues' msd stand alone issues
2 for 2.
There should be a sticky on this particular type of question
2 for 2.
There should be a sticky on this particular type of question
Gold Rush
Well-Known Member
PM Sent
Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
Tie the three wires together problem solved.
Yes, it did!
.... Finally.
For anyone reading this, my diagram above was completely wrong. It should be as follows. I'll be doing a complete write up on this installation process, as soon as it's done and running. Maybe it will be easier for the next person, as opposed to reading over multiple threads/opinions/etc.
matthon
Well-Known Member
I installed EFI years ago, with it I installed Positive and Negative hubs.
Negative hub under the dash, Positive hub under the dash, both IGN and RUN connected here, along with EFI and Coil/Distributor.
Negative hub next to the battery with 1 wire to the battery neg.
Grounded everything to one of said Negative hubs, including the tbs, alternator, etc.
Negative hub under the dash, Positive hub under the dash, both IGN and RUN connected here, along with EFI and Coil/Distributor.
Negative hub next to the battery with 1 wire to the battery neg.
Grounded everything to one of said Negative hubs, including the tbs, alternator, etc.
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
I made some time ago a full expanded version of the circuits being feeded from the ign switch on both stages ( including accs, fusebox, etc... ), but decided to make a simplified version now. Maybe this is more "selfexplained" diagram ?
HEMIB
Well-Known Member
I found when turning from run to start there is a break in between the 12 Volt circuit all the switches do it ,i had to put a 10 second timer that is triggered by the start circuit & stays on until the key returns to the run position. What happens when going from run position to the start position & back there is a momentary break in the 12 Volt supply to the EFI 12 Volt switched supply , sometimes but not every time this causes the EFI to reset resulting in a high idle (Could be the DBW) resetting .
Using a Terminator X Max also does it on the Fast Sportsman EFI
Using a Terminator X Max also does it on the Fast Sportsman EFI
Where did you mount it and what did you use?
matthon
Well-Known Member
This sounds like a simple solution.
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
That will bypass the ballast. No matter where you link both circuits, any link will bypass the ballast (for anybody who cares, of course)
matthon
Well-Known Member
OP stated he swapped to a coil that does not require resistor, an efi coil.
I'm confused, my apologies.
Imo, efi should have electronic ignition, aka no ballast resistor.
Even better, timing control.
I'm confused, my apologies.
Imo, efi should have electronic ignition, aka no ballast resistor.
Even better, timing control.
HEMIB
Well-Known Member
Still having problem's with this will update once i come up with a fix.
Like you said the problem with our ignition switches there is that moment in time where neither the crank or run output terminal of the switch has voltage on it, due to the way the internal contacts overlap (or fail to). No problem for oem and even some EFI as it happens so fast, but some EFI systems seem to be more sensitive to it than others? What I've done is mount a starter button up under the dash right there that intercepts the yellow ignition relay wire. The key gets switched to 'run' and stays there, button cranks the engine without disturbing the switched feed. No more voltage interruption and the button is out of sight.
Seems that your timer solution should work fine, but noting your post #37 maybe there's another problem? Lettuce know what you find...
HEMIB
Well-Known Member
As long as it does not bypass the nuetral safety switch allowing to start the car in gear
I am working on make a PCB with a micro processor works in such a way as soon as it detects the start command it turns on a relay to bridge the start /run circuit for 2 seconds then turns off .
That way it still involves the safety nuetral switch ,wheather it is fast enough to detect the initial crank pulse remains to be seen .
I have tried to silver solder the contacts on the ignition switch to eliminate he open circuit between start & run but it is messy also found the delay between the Chinese switches have a larger blank spot between the start & run circuits
I am working on make a PCB with a micro processor works in such a way as soon as it detects the start command it turns on a relay to bridge the start /run circuit for 2 seconds then turns off .
That way it still involves the safety nuetral switch ,wheather it is fast enough to detect the initial crank pulse remains to be seen .
I have tried to silver solder the contacts on the ignition switch to eliminate he open circuit between start & run but it is messy also found the delay between the Chinese switches have a larger blank spot between the start & run circuits
The button add doesn't bypass anything except the 'crank' position of the factory ignition switch. NSS still works as designed...you're still sending 12v start signal to the proper terminal on the start relay, which is where the NSS enables/disables engine cranking.
But my friend if you wanna go through all that other stuff, have at it! I love "out-of-the-box" solutions and looking at things in ways others may not.
Since your timer didn't solve the problem though "if it were me" I might at this point consider trying a temporary button/switch/my kid holding wires together/ setup just to verify it will solve your issue before committing extra time and energy..
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