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I just cut the one end off and bent out one coil to go over the seat stud. A couple of washers and fine thread nuts and your good to go.
Taking Up New Residence
- Thread starter khryslerkid
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I just cut the one end off and bent out one coil to go over the seat stud. A couple of washers and fine thread nuts and your good to go.
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Been tinkering with some smaller details.
Wipers with a newer style 15" refill. Seem to fit ok.
Actually cleaned up and installed the original cowl to hood seal. Here's a closeup of the profile.
Refurbished the windshield washer parts. Soaked the nozzles in carburetor parts cleaner, they're brass. The bracket for the check valve was gold anodized.
Found a hose replacement kit from Mac's. '66-'67 Ford Fairlane. Has two different size hoses but not the 3/16". Enough to do under the hood. Sorry no ribs on the hoses but thats hard to find. Just finding the right size hose is hard enough without buying a hundred feet of it.
Wipers with a newer style 15" refill. Seem to fit ok.
Actually cleaned up and installed the original cowl to hood seal. Here's a closeup of the profile.
Refurbished the windshield washer parts. Soaked the nozzles in carburetor parts cleaner, they're brass. The bracket for the check valve was gold anodized.
Found a hose replacement kit from Mac's. '66-'67 Ford Fairlane. Has two different size hoses but not the 3/16". Enough to do under the hood. Sorry no ribs on the hoses but thats hard to find. Just finding the right size hose is hard enough without buying a hundred feet of it.
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Pieces installed.
Cleaned up and painted the washer bag bracket. Also the original bag. Still soft and holds water. Just wish it didn't have the battery acid stains.
I already had the pedal and switch cleaned up.
Cleaned up the glove box insert and installed. You can see that it's not at all like those folded up pieces they make for replacements. Looks like the certicard or IBM card was stapled to it.
Cleaned up and painted the washer bag bracket. Also the original bag. Still soft and holds water. Just wish it didn't have the battery acid stains.
I already had the pedal and switch cleaned up.
Cleaned up the glove box insert and installed. You can see that it's not at all like those folded up pieces they make for replacements. Looks like the certicard or IBM card was stapled to it.
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This past Saturday I did remove the valve covers to do a inspection of the valve train. Everything looked great. Cranked it over with a remote starter button and watched each lifter for rotation. If you find one not rotating it's a sign of a flat cam lobe, not good. I had oil running out of every lifter and rocker just cranking it with the remote.
A little trick is to dab a spot with a paint pen on each pushrod. As you crank the engine you'll see them rotate. Looking down through the head, you'll see the top of the lifter rotating and oil pushing out around them also.
Not being real sure just how much oil you suppose to have at the rockers while the engine is running, I started a thread with great response!
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...ld-be-getting-more-oil.145152/#post-910867691
In Pennsylvania, you have the option of displaying a "Vintage" license plate. It has to be from the year of your vehicle. Registered as an Antique or a Classic you can apply for this.
Pennsylvania used a 1958 tag until 1964 by issuing stickers each year. One way of telling if you have the correct year tag is by their sequence. The other way is if the sticker for the year you need has all "0"s after the "PA".
The one I submitted was issued in 1962. Did all the paperwork at the tag and title company on Saturday. Now I have to wait for an approval from the DMV. I also went with Hagarty for the insurance. Great people to deal with!
Now it's the waiting again.
A little trick is to dab a spot with a paint pen on each pushrod. As you crank the engine you'll see them rotate. Looking down through the head, you'll see the top of the lifter rotating and oil pushing out around them also.
Not being real sure just how much oil you suppose to have at the rockers while the engine is running, I started a thread with great response!
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...ld-be-getting-more-oil.145152/#post-910867691
In Pennsylvania, you have the option of displaying a "Vintage" license plate. It has to be from the year of your vehicle. Registered as an Antique or a Classic you can apply for this.
Pennsylvania used a 1958 tag until 1964 by issuing stickers each year. One way of telling if you have the correct year tag is by their sequence. The other way is if the sticker for the year you need has all "0"s after the "PA".
The one I submitted was issued in 1962. Did all the paperwork at the tag and title company on Saturday. Now I have to wait for an approval from the DMV. I also went with Hagarty for the insurance. Great people to deal with!
Now it's the waiting again.
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Cleaned up the horns and painted them. They sound like something off of a Cadillac!
KK... I just marvel at how clean and crisp every detail is on your car!! If there was an Academy Award for Home Car restoration.... You would win a Room full of Statues!! PLEASE , Do another car so we have something to follow for inspiration! Your Like a Netflix for car guys!! KUDOS!!
Thunder
Thunder
You can use vintage plates in Indiana, also.
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Yeah, how about that. So much easier to change the refills too. I wouldn't doubt they are original to the car. Everything I find out there are the ones with the wide "wing" on top.
Oh cut it out Thunder!
I'm wishing the paint was better on the car as I do some of this detailing. That would have required a full disassembly, strip to bare metal, fix the little dings here and there, epoxy primer, paint, then do what I've already done. I would have been another year behind schedule and some really light pockets. So I guess I'm preserving it for now and let the new owner, if there will be another, do the complete restoration some other day.
I probably wouldn't do another. I suggest buying one already done, just know what you're looking at. I'm itching to get this one on the road and do some cruzing!
I think that's a cool idea! I remember Maryland having this option when I lived there. Even bought a set of the correct blue and white tags for it.
Then I moved here and only had the Antique tag option. Anything else you have to do the annual inspection and I didn’t like the Antique tag with a picture of a Ford Model A on it.
Well that's all changed now thanks to some of the car clubs in the state that lobbied for the changes.
Here you have to buy the antique tags first, show the license branch worker your vintage tag and if they approve it, they will fill out a form for you to carry that explains the vintage tag. You also have to carry the antique plate somewhere in your car. Mine’s under the trunk mat. I’ve run this old tag for a couple of years now, I’m starting to see a few more on other cars.
I’ve also got the old “airfoil” type wipers on the car, I think they’re pretty cool.
I’ve also got the old “airfoil” type wipers on the car, I think they’re pretty cool.
Johnpat
Well-Known Member
When I was 16 my Dad bought a brand new
Polara500.
At 17 I bought it from him.Did alot of street
Racing usually against 300 HP 327
Chevy's.I kicked their butts!!
361 cubic 305 horse Loved that car
Brother totalled it while I was in boot camp!!!!
Polara500.
At 17 I bought it from him.Did alot of street
Racing usually against 300 HP 327
Chevy's.I kicked their butts!!
361 cubic 305 horse Loved that car
Brother totalled it while I was in boot camp!!!!
I just happened to stumble across this thread and I'm glad I did. I've been debating for over a year now on how to fabricate something to replace the missing hardboard headliner in my 70 Coronet Wagon. Well thanks to you I was able to use the REM info you posted to get replacement panels. They were delivered late last week and I'm impressed on how well they look. I have yet to start installing it, but I'm excited to see it in place.
Thanks kkid for sharing your information and helping others to make significant progress on their projects.
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IIRC Maryland had you keep the Antique tag with the car when you displayed a Vintage tag also. I asked at the Tag and Title and they don't issue you a antique tag in Pa. when applying for the Vintage tag permit. The Vintage tag, if approved, is recorded to your vehicle.
I owned a sweet '64 Polara 500 when I was 18. After about three years I sold it to a guy who wouldn't stop bugging me to sell it to him. He really abused it. Then he sold it to a guy who took out a pole with it. Last time I saw it some "Good Ole Boys" had it and it was junk.
Well I'm glad to hear you found something useful in my thread. Lol
Start a thread when you do your headliner. (Pay it foward) I wasn't aware that REM made a hardboard headliner for the newer wagons. Good to know because there are some members on here that own them, plus I'd like to see the finished product.
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I guess I should update this thread if you didn't catch this one...
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/bugs-in-my-radiator.150200/#post-910937754
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/bugs-in-my-radiator.150200/#post-910937754
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So after a longer drive the next day, I returned to find the rear pinion seal leaking a couple of drops. Getting the nut off to remove the yoke was quite challenging!
I had to drill two holes in a piece of angle iron and attach it to the yoke. Then let it come up against the frame. Useing a long enough piece of pipe on the strong bar so that it sticks out the side of the car, I stood on it to break it loose. There's too much flex in the rear, axels and tires to get it to break loose without the angle iron attached.
Then I used a pulley puller to remove the yoke. (beats hammering it off)
Then useing a big screwdriver and hammer behind the lip, I removed the old seal.
The yoke showed some light pitting so I polished it useing 1500 grit paper followed by 2000 grit.
I'll pick up a new seal tomorrow if my aching back will let me get out of bed. Damn RA!
Part # 2404135
I had to drill two holes in a piece of angle iron and attach it to the yoke. Then let it come up against the frame. Useing a long enough piece of pipe on the strong bar so that it sticks out the side of the car, I stood on it to break it loose. There's too much flex in the rear, axels and tires to get it to break loose without the angle iron attached.
Then I used a pulley puller to remove the yoke. (beats hammering it off)
Then useing a big screwdriver and hammer behind the lip, I removed the old seal.
The yoke showed some light pitting so I polished it useing 1500 grit paper followed by 2000 grit.
I'll pick up a new seal tomorrow if my aching back will let me get out of bed. Damn RA!
Part # 2404135
MW 413
Well-Known Member
They are called Speedy Sleeves. NAPA stores can get them. We used a lot of them in heavy truck service. Pinion yokes, trans output flanges, wheel seal lands, crank flanges, etc. Put green bearing lock on the flange before you drive them on. Helps lube the driving on the flange or seal land and seals it. Pre heating the sleeve in the oven also makes it easier to drive on the flange.
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