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Taking Up New Residence

A little update...

I'm working out a small tuning issue. I have it narrowed down to the carbs. Maybe in the idle jet circuit. I'll need to pop the tops off and see what size I'm working with and go from there.

I found that the Mallory dual point, (27 series) distributor was way off in mechanical advance and also in the vacuum advance. The factory settings were at 25* on the mechanical and way past 60* on the vacume advance. This is a nos unit. Here's some documentation on how they are adjusted.

Removing the vacuum advance
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Then remove the bushing for the wire.
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Then there are two allen set screws to remove. I marked the inside before removing.
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Then you can pull out the points plate
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Then you remove this C-clip and pull out the lower plate.
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Here's where you can change your springs for a earlier of later advance.
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My problem was too much mechanical advance. With the vacuum disconnected, I had way too much with the factory setting of 25*. I'm setting my initial timing at 18* so I would like to end up with 34 - 36 "all in". So 18* from 36* would be 18*

These are the stops for the weights.
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I going to set the stops at 18*. They have a plastic guage that normally came with the distributor. I don't have a guage but I did manage to find the measurements for each step in a guage.
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I needed a guage to do my measuring with.I just happen to have a scale that will work perfectly. It even has rounded ends to fit the slot. I decided to go with 19* which measures .414
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Here's the factory setting
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I closed them up to the 19* measurement of .414
You loosen the screw and nut, move the stop inward and tighten. They are a little bit of a pain to get right on the first try. This is why they changed to tabs on the newer ones.
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Reinstall everything in the reverse order.
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When installing the points plate, I lined up my marks that I made and when installing the set screws you could feel the place in the plate where they once were. Takes that special touch.
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Their condensers have a bad reputation. Believe it or not it still worked but I ordered two new ones. The first new one I installed went up in about three minutes. I thought I was running out of gas until I swapped it out for another one.
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The hard part about finding another brand to use other than Mallory is the lenth of the wire. It's longer than most out there.
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Got her all back together and the mechanical was spot on. Then the vacuum advance was still off the chart. There is an allen screw inside the nipple on the advance can. Counter clockwise takes advance out, clockwise adds advancement. I had to turn it counter clockwise 5 1/2 turns to achieve 50* total
 
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I have been experiencing some kind of a harmonic sound lately and started a thread...
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...torque-converter-sound.153401/#post-910984127

I jacked up the car yesterday and placed the rear housing on stands to find this...



I bought these rims from a guy selling them at Chrysler Carslisle. He makes them himself. I thought I was saving a couple of bucks.

So today I took the rim to my tire guy and spun it on his balancer just to verify it's the wheel and not the axle or flange. It's the wheel.

Just ordered a new rim from Summit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wvi-63-5812042

Hope this cures the harmonics that I was getting.
 
I have been experiencing some kind of a harmonic sound lately and started a thread...
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...torque-converter-sound.153401/#post-910984127

I jacked up the car yesterday and placed the rear housing on stands to find this...



I bought these rims from a guy selling them at Chrysler Carslisle. He makes them himself. I thought I was saving a couple of bucks.

So today I took the rim to my tire guy and spun it on his balancer just to verify it's the wheel and not the axle or flange. It's the wheel.

Just ordered a new rim from Summit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wvi-63-5812042

Hope this cures the harmonics that I was getting.

I bought a set of 15 x8 Wheel venique and they were just as bad as yours. I would check the wheel before you mount tires on them
 
That's pretty bad, but don't expect the wheel vintiques to be perfect. I had to send a few 15x6 rims back because the register wasn't centered and there was a hop in the rim. Never seen one wobble like what you have.
 
I bought a set of 15 x8 Wheel venique and they were just as bad as yours. I would check the wheel before you mount tires on them

That's pretty bad, but don't expect the wheel vintiques to be perfect. I had to send a few 15x6 rims back because the register wasn't centered and there was a hop in the rim. Never seen one wobble like what you have.

Thanks for the encouragement guys! Lol

Yeah I'll definitely check the new one. I thought I had checked all four before I painted them and had the tires mounted. Guess I checked the same one twice or something.
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Coker sells the same wheel for $110 plus $75 shipping!
 
Man I sure don't miss those dualpoint distributors.
 
I have talked with this guy but have never purchased and wheels from him. Might want to check him out before you get your new wheels. http://themopardude.com/New_Custom_2.html

Also My Wheel Vinique wheels were so bad I just threw them away. They would not take them back understandable because I had powder coated them and mounted tires on them. Just could not in good consensus sell them to someone else.
 
I have talked with this guy but have never purchased and wheels from him. Might want to check him out before you get your new wheels

I ordered one from Summit yesterday and received it this morning. Stopped by my tire guy after running some arons and ran the new wheel on his spin balancer. Checked out ok. I'll be painting it tomorrow.

It must be where or when the wheels were built. I either hear that they were really bad or they were perfect. The one I bought was powder coated and looked good, welds, paint and ran true.
 
Not perfect but better. What happened to quality control now days?

Surfing several sites on this subject, I've read that tolerance on a steel wheel ranges from 1/8" to 3/16". That's not too good in my book. This will have to do until I have the extra funds to find something better.

Original wheel (without the music)


Replacement wheel.


And the drivers side.


(You can play the first two vids at the same time.)
 
Way above my pay grade, but maybe there’s a different set of specs for wheel runout between bias-ply & radial Tire’s? Interesting.
 
Left one runs out nice and true! but the other man that's bad! BTW Sounds great!
 
Way above my pay grade, but maybe there’s a different set of specs for wheel runout between bias-ply & radial Tire’s? Interesting.
Tire runout is one thing but this is the wheel. Amazing what they make and sell in today's market.

Left one runs out nice and true! but the other man that's bad! BTW Sounds great!
The left has some in it too.
 
Tire runout is one thing but this is the wheel. Amazing what they make and sell in today's market.


The left has some in it too.
You can't send them back once painted if I remember, right? To me manufacturing mistakes should be an exception .
 
You can't send them back once painted if I remember, right? To me manufacturing mistakes should be an exception .

This is the label on the box.
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The one I bought was black powder coated. Real nice finish. I stopped by my tire guy and spun it on his balancer. It had a very small amount of runout in it and he told me, in his experience with the steel aftermarket rims, you're not going to find much better. So I elected to go ahead and paint it and have the tire mounted. Having the tire on it does magnify it.
 
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