Seen some threads that say a 742 housing seal is a little different than a 741 or 489, T/F I don't know for sure.
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You are correct Fran. Here's Dr. Diffs listing.
http://www.doctordiff.com/8-3-4-pinion-seal.html
"Add $10 for the 742 seal" which makes it $18 + shipping. I looked the seal up in NAPA's site and its showing $50 !!!
Was sure you saw them but my two cents. WOW $50!
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I thought I could find one local for around $20, I thought wrong. I called Napa, $49.95. Called a Parts Plus close to me, $45.00. Called an old parts place, Carquest, $29. They can have it tomorrow morning by 8:00. That will give my back a rest, just hope it's not a piece of junk. I've heard that there are cheap ones out there. I wanted to get it back together by Saturday. Suppose to be good weather here.
Detroit Iron
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Yeah when you see the seal you will know why. It's a lot more substantial than the others.
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I agree, it not just a simple seal, one of the more complex with actually two rows of contact, inner and outer. But that doesn't explain the big price differences.
Working on these 50 plus year old cars you just bite the bullet and buy the part no matter what the cost. On the other hand when you see $18 and $50 for the same piece you have to wonder.
threewood
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Car is looking fantastic, great work!
On the pinion seal, I apply permatex ultra grey around the outer perimeter before I drive it home. Had one that leaked around the housing without it.
On the pinion seal, I apply permatex ultra grey around the outer perimeter before I drive it home. Had one that leaked around the housing without it.
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Thanks for the compliment!
I plan on useing a sealer there. You could see that it was done there when I removed it.
I think I read somewhere to do the splines also. Lube can track up the splines in some cases. I guess a thin film wouldn't hurt.
Putting on goop like permatex I keep a supply of kiddie paint brushes to apply it and toss them. Neater that way.
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Well the $29 one at Carquest was leather! The original ones were leather and always leaked. So I ordered one from Dr Diff. I'll take the weekend off and get back at it next week.
Oh the "Jack Stand Delima"
MW 413
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Wise to wait KK. You most likely know this but if you don't, if the new seal has a small tension spring behind the lip make sure you pack the back space behind the lip with grease so the spring does not pop out if you have to drive the yoke on the pinion spline. Looks like it may be a OK weekend after all.
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Received the seal from Dr. Diff this morning. It's a double ridge seal like factory but the heavy metal lip isn't there. No biggie. The number on it is 7216 and that comes up as a "National" seal. Well those are all leather so I'm not sure what make Dr. Diffs are. His are neoprene.
Broke my 250# torque wrench. I had it set at 150# for the first go around. Then stepped it up to 240# and broke the adjuster knob on the end of the handle. At least it didn't affect the spring mechanism and I got a good torque.
Reinstalled the driveshaft, topped up the gear lube.
Then I moved on to the crooked steering wheel. Last time it was aligned it wasn't held while doing the adjustments. So I just mark the floor with some tape, use a 2' square against the tire and on the floor and make a mark front and back of the wheel. I do both fronts to keep track of the adjustment that I'm going to do.
The steering wheel was leaning to the left so I shortened the tie rod link on the left side and lengthen the tie rod link on the right side. Same amount on both sides, ended up taking only a half of a turn each. Man I hate when they do that on an alignment.
While I had the front end up and the suspension hanging, I gave each torsion bar adjuster one turn. The 440 is a bit heavier than the original 361. It made a slight difference, I'm not going too crazy on them.
I ordered a four piece floor mat set by ACC. Got them through Summit. Nobody list these for a '62 Dodge. So I ordered a set for a '62 Savoy. What do you know, they fit. Ordered the same color and loop (no logo) as the ACC carpet that I used. ($103)
Broke my 250# torque wrench. I had it set at 150# for the first go around. Then stepped it up to 240# and broke the adjuster knob on the end of the handle. At least it didn't affect the spring mechanism and I got a good torque.
Reinstalled the driveshaft, topped up the gear lube.
Then I moved on to the crooked steering wheel. Last time it was aligned it wasn't held while doing the adjustments. So I just mark the floor with some tape, use a 2' square against the tire and on the floor and make a mark front and back of the wheel. I do both fronts to keep track of the adjustment that I'm going to do.
The steering wheel was leaning to the left so I shortened the tie rod link on the left side and lengthen the tie rod link on the right side. Same amount on both sides, ended up taking only a half of a turn each. Man I hate when they do that on an alignment.
While I had the front end up and the suspension hanging, I gave each torsion bar adjuster one turn. The 440 is a bit heavier than the original 361. It made a slight difference, I'm not going too crazy on them.
I ordered a four piece floor mat set by ACC. Got them through Summit. Nobody list these for a '62 Dodge. So I ordered a set for a '62 Savoy. What do you know, they fit. Ordered the same color and loop (no logo) as the ACC carpet that I used. ($103)
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Too bad we don’t live closer, I’ve got a 3/4” drive torque wrench that I’d let you borrow.
Mats look great.
Mats look great.
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Thanks for the offer! I did manage to get a good torque out of it. I looked around town for a replacement but all I could find were 150# wrenches. Next time I need one over 150# I'm going to be sol.
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I can't remember how many times I did that. That's why I stopped lending tools. I'll just say I don't have one or find out why they need it and just offer to fix it to help them out.
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