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Taking Up New Residence

Found some time this afternoon to install the steering column. It's been sitting in the house for awhile and I was always afraid it was going to get damaged.

First I had to install the brake light switch and bracket. There's a copper coating on this bracket. I didn't even clean it.
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In order to keep the shaft centered in the column or tube, I used three pieces of wood inside. 1/2"x 1" and around 3" long. They will support the shaft because the so called bearing mounted in rubber is almost too flexible to keep it centered during installation. I also glued the foam insulation to the plate so I don't have to wrestle with that.
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Placing the column through the firewall, I can see the steering box and shaft. Make contact with it but dont push the coupler on too far. I used a rubber strap to support the column while I go and line up the coupler. It will allow column to move in and out.
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Lining up the splines in the coupler. There is a notch in the coupler and a larger groove in the steering box shaft.
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The coupler when installed should be 13/16" from the guage hole.
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Once you have the coupler in place then you can line up and tighten the bracket under the dash.
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Now with those blocks inside the column, the firewall plate will be lined up for you. Otherwise the tube would be off centered. Go ahead and install the hardware for the plate, then remove the blocks.
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You have to have the shaft centered in the tube as close as possible so there is no strain on the rubber/bearing seal.
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I installed the turn signal leaver last. Next I'll clean up the steering wheel and horn button so that can be installed.
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Kid... It All looks Better than Factory! I need to assemble my column in the weeks ahead. You have got some Great tips and tricks here! I plan to implement them!

They're a piece of cake. The only thing I can't stress enough is that not supporting the shaft might be hard on the small bearing and clips at the steering wheel end.

The upper bearing is in a rubber cover. I guess to isolate the shaft.
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It is held in place with a retainer ring on both sides.
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Make sure the ground tag is to the right. If you install it the opposite way, it won't work correctly. The unit only rocks side to side and down.
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FSM says 40 foot pounds. I went 10lbs at a time till I got to 40lbs.
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Make sure the ground tag is to the right. If you install it the opposite way, it won't work correctly. The unit only rocks side to side and down.
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FSM says 40 foot pounds. I went 10lbs at a time till I got to 40lbs.
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View attachment 512324
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KID, you going to send some pics back to the guy you bought the car from? He would not believe it to be the same car! Awesome!!
 
Received the new trunnion boot today, from Georgia. Glad to see it arrived so quick! This is the description in the add.

Mopar Drive Shaft Trunion Universal Joint Boot NEW 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65

This is a brand new reproduction. This is the smaller trunion boot that measures about 3-1/4" long. We are happy to combine shipping. Please see our other listings.


5665dtboot.jpg


This is what I received
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I didn't know Chrysler used such a small one. I thought there was only two sizes, large and small. The last one I bought was a small one with about the same measurements in the add and it was the right one. They suppose to go by the size of the flange when describing the size. Large flange, smaller flange. The smaller flange is 4" (what I have). And the larger is 4 1/2" IIRC. You can't stretch this boot to 3 1/4"!

I wrote the seller and I will have to wait on a reply. Maybe he sent the wrong one by mistake? Might be awhile for the fact he's in South Georgia!

So I'm off to locate another one!
smiley-eatdrink048.gif
 
Received the new trunnion boot today, from Georgia. Glad to see it arrived so quick! This is the description in the add.

Mopar Drive Shaft Trunion Universal Joint Boot NEW 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65

This is a brand new reproduction. This is the smaller trunion boot that measures about 3-1/4" long. We are happy to combine shipping. Please see our other listings.


View attachment 512606

This is what I received
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I didn't know Chrysler used such a small one. I thought there was only two sizes, large and small. The last one I bought was a small one with about the same measurements in the add and it was the right one. They suppose to go by the size of the flange when describing the size. Large flange, smaller flange. The smaller flange is 4" (what I have). And the larger is 4 1/2" IIRC. You can't stretch this boot to 3 1/4"!

I wrote the seller and I will have to wait on a reply. Maybe he sent the wrong one by mistake? Might be awhile for the fact he's in South Georgia!

So I'm off to locate another one! View attachment 512605
Man that Sucks!!
 
Wow, looking through this thread all I can say is you must be retired, and I can't wait to retire! Amazing detail work! Much respect Sir.
 
Wow, looking through this thread all I can say is you must be retired, and I can't wait to retire! Amazing detail work! Much respect Sir.
Well it's not all it's cracked up to be! The boss always thinking of stuff that needs done, (oh wait, I was going to see some 'buds' before ur carpentry,yard work,etc got planned?!). Overall though it's not bad IMHO.
 
Well it's not all it's cracked up to be! The boss always thinking of stuff that needs done, (oh wait, I was going to see some 'buds' before ur carpentry,yard work,etc got planned?!). Overall though it's not bad IMHO.
No Mopar work today returning skids that wall stones came on.
Sorry KK for hijack. Heck of a job on the 62.
 
Wow, looking through this thread all I can say is you must be retired, and I can't wait to retire! Amazing detail work! Much respect Sir.

Don't be in a hurry! "Sir" and thanks!

Well it's not all it's cracked up to be! The boss always thinking of stuff that needs done, (oh wait, I was going to see some 'buds' before ur carpentry,yard work,etc got planned?!). Overall though it's not bad IMHO.

I like the "sleeping in" part if you want to. I have no boss or bosses to answer to, just myself.

No Mopar work today returning skids that wall stones came on.
Sorry KK for hijack. Heck of a job on the 62.

No hijack taken and thanks!
 
Should be receiving one of the two trunnion boots that I ordered soon. One from Maine, Robert's Motor Parts.

http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/

One from Wisconsin and I sent the small one back to the seller for an exchange. He thinks it was a foul up and wants to make it right.

Looking at the tire to leaf spring clearance, I have to get 1/4" spacers and longer studs to fix that. I should have used a 4 1/4" back space wheel instead of the 4 1/2". Those 275/60s hang out over the rim farther than I thought they would.

Work, work, work.
 
That 62 rear being narrower than later diff's has plus's and minus's. My Dana 60 was suppose to be from a 68 GTX but I'm not so sure. It has a 1330 yoke which 66 and 67 cars had. Unless it was an early 68 and a leftover rear. Forgot to check before I took it off jack stands. Picture of my tire clearance with 4" bs 8" wheels with Nitto's 275/50r/15's With a 11.18" cross section.
1965 Dodge 006.JPG
 
That 62 rear being narrower than later diff's has plus's and minus's. My Dana 60 was suppose to be from a 68 GTX but I'm not so sure. It has a 1330 yoke which 66 and 67 cars had. Unless it was an early 68 and a leftover rear. Forgot to check before I took it off jack stands. Picture of my tire clearance with 4" bs 8" wheels with Nitto's 275/50r/15's With a 11.18" cross section.View attachment 514072

Thats a lot of tire. How's it on the outer lip?
 
Received the boot from Gary Roberts of Robert's Motor Parts. It's the right one! Hey this guy's prices aren't too bad. He deals in the older Mopars but right up to '62.

So the trick is to grease that sucker up, inside and out, also inside the housing. I snuck two wire ties in and around the boot to be able to pull on it some.
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That SOB slid through there like giving birth! No sooner than I had most of it stuffed into the housing, out it came.
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The clamps that I received were, one too long for the smaller dia and too short for the front??? So I reused the factory clamps. They were in good shape so what the heck. Large one was easy.
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Small one was a pita. I had to come up with something that would squeeze it enough to get the tab started. Took a wide wire tie, cut a window in it to get at the tab. It's one of those reusable ones so it could be released. Amazed myself!
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Reinstalled the balls, slides. FSM says two ounces of grease or you can measure 1/2" thick on the cover plate. Use half of it behind the joints, the other half in front.
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Installed the cover, ready to do the other end.
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I removed the old joint before I started on the trunnion end. So here's removing the joint and installing the new one.

Useing an old 1 1/16" socket and a piece of round stock just smaller than the diameter of the cup, remove c-clips and press to the one side.
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Remove that cup and useing the small dia round stock press to the other side.
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Now that cup is free and you can remove the cross.
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Installing the new one is almost reverse of this.

First insert the cross through one side and install a cup, making sure you don't disturb any bearing needles. If there is a grease fitting in the center you have to watch which side you want it to be. Normally toward the driveshaft. This one has it in the cup.
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Holding the cross to the one side with the cup on there, carefully place it in the vise with your socket on the opposite side.
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Press it flush, then useing the small dia stock press the cup and cross to the other side.
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Now you have enough cross showing to place the other cup on there.
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