Taking Up New Residence

[dieseldazzle]

Those puppies are howling like kittens when you roast them lol.

Nice work brother

 

[khryslerkid]

Those puppies are howling like kittens when you roast them lol.

Nice work brother

Thanks DD! They have a pretty aggressive tread pattern. Just getting the white markings off of them and checking the Suregrip!

 

[khryslerkid]

Just a few things I've been tinkering with.

On the day I was waiting on the trans repair I broke out the sand blaster. Haven't got back to painting it yet.

I figured that I need to get the hood presentable so I started on it. It was rougher than I thought.

It has pitted rust where someone had a tarp on it, then probably sat a five gallon bucket on the tarp. Then there are a half a dozen dents coming up from underneath. On dent was from the top down right over the frame. I tacked a bolt to it and used my sliding hammer to help it out.

I ended up useing stripper on it. Paint was quite thick and it was just easier than sanding.

 

[khryslerkid]

Waiting on primer to cure and giving author a break, I dug out a replacement side piece and cleaned it up.

Here's the original one still on the car. No fixing pot metal.

Check out the hardware. They used these all position (I really don't know what to call them) behind the stamped nuts.

The replacement is a good "driver" piece that's better than what was on it. I'm not painting it like the factory did.

 

[khryslerkid]

Such a challenge without a spray booth!

Now I have to let it cure two or three days so it can be handled. I need to flip it over and do the other side.

 

[malex]

Such a challenge without a spray booth!
View attachment 524032

Now I have to let it cure two or three days so it can be handled. I need to flip it over and do the other side.

Painting in an open garage is tough.
I've got a number of things to paint too so this is what I did. Temporary booth! 6 mil poly, 1" sq. tubing and a roll of tuck tape. Oh and a few furnace filters.

Sprayed the glass bumper today, fab'd up a swing arm, was easy to do all sides of the bumper. Glass hood to follow.

 

[khryslerkid]

Painting in an open garage is tough.
I've got a number of things to paint too so this is what I did. Temporary booth! 6 mil poly, 1" sq. tubing and a roll of tuck tape. Oh and a few furnace filters.
View attachment 524074
Sprayed the glass bumper today, fab'd up a swing arm, was easy to do all sides of the bumper. Glass hood to follow.
View attachment 524076

Thats what I would like. I thought about making a portable wall, with filters, to place in the garage door opening and a filter frame in the back service door. It's a good size, two car garage, that's deep but not enough room for a makeshift booth. So I'm just winging it when I have too. Paint early in the morning or late at night so the neighbors don't catch wind!

Glad to see you have your bumper situation under way

 

[khryslerkid]

Been goofing off a little but back into it this week. Man I hate bodywork. The hood looked like they had a barn dance on it. Broke out the paint gun early this morning to beat the bugs. Especially the gnats that have been everywhere this year.

Made up a hood carrier so the underside doesn't get marred.

Turned out ok, no gnats but I got a little dirt this time from somewhere. Wet sand and buff!

Had a little paint left in the gun so I put the mixed paint in the refrigerator to buy me some time. The lower valance was all bent up so just did some hammer and dolly real quick, then removed the undercoating on the inside, quick sand job, primer and shot it. Yep, I actually half assed something! Man I'm going to be sore tomorrow

 

[khryslerkid]

Did the old vinegar dip on the fender tag. I used stripper first to remove the paint then gave it a bath. I didn't want to dull the letters and numbers with sand paper. The tag was in good shape to start with. Painted it along with some misc hardware today. It's the little things!

 

[prostockstan]

We put the trans under the car with a jack under it and leave it back under the trans well a little until motor is dropped in. then move trans forward and bolt trans to engine, then cross-member to trans and frame. Just did an install in that order last week made it a lot easier. 512 crossram motor in a coronet with a cope racing 727 trans.

 

[Thunderlugs]

Did the old vinegar dip on the fender tag. I used stripper first to remove the paint then gave it a bath. I didn't want to dull the letters and numbers with sand paper. The tag was in good shape to start with. Painted it along with some misc hardware today. It's the little things!
View attachment 529356
View attachment 529357
View attachment 529358
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View attachment 529360

Kid.. just curious, are you using good old fashioned enamel, or base, clear? Also explain the vinegar soak recipe. I could use that one! Everything looks Great!!

 

[khryslerkid]

We put the trans under the car with a jack under it and leave it back under the trans well a little until motor is dropped in. then move trans forward and bolt trans to engine, then cross-member to trans and frame. Just did an install in that order last week made it a lot easier. 512 crossram motor in a coronet with a cope racing 727 trans.

On the '62 I can just rest the pan on the cross link when R&R the trans. I just placed a 1/4" piece of wood between the link and pan to spread the weight.

 

[khryslerkid]

Kid.. just curious, are you using good old fashioned enamel, or base, clear? Also explain the vinegar soak recipe. I could use that one! Everything looks Great!!

I'm useing PPG single stage. Shop grade is about $36 a quart. It's the factory look in my book. Some cars just don't look right useing BCCC. Useing hardner in the paint, it's easily repaired or touched up. Being a solid color it's forgiving to chips, small scratches and can be wet sanded and buffed.

The vinegar bath is probably a lot slower than EvapoRust but it's cheap and works in a pinch. Just pour some in a container, drop in your part. You have to remove any paint first. I'll use a brush to agitate the surface every now and then. Keep a loose lid on it to keep the oder down. When it has done it's job to your liking, rinse with water then place it in a bath of clean water with baking soda added to neutralize the vinegar's acid. You'll need to dry your part right away after removing it to keep it from flash rusting.

I did my two four bll manifold, took about four days and every time I rinsed it off and dried it, it would flash rust. So I ended up dusting it in the sand blaster, blowing it out real good, then sprayed it out with parts cleaner, then WD40.

Thanks again for the compliment!

 

[khryslerkid]

Who makes up these packs of parts that don't have what you need? Idiots!

The hood bumper in the red circle is my original. Don't see anything even close.

The hood adjusting rubbers are too big for the screw head.

 

[Fran Blacker]

The ones above the circled one look like the ones that go on fenders to keep hood away from fenders? Picture shadow can't tell, look like the ones on my 65 Dodge.

 

[khryslerkid]

The ones above the circled one look like the ones that go on fenders to keep hood away from fenders? Picture shadow can't tell, look like the ones on my 65 Dodge.

Thats the ones that I needed, between the hood and fender like the one I circled. There is only one on each side, near the back. I was thinking this set is for something newer. I'm researching again.

 

[khryslerkid]

Wanted a change in scenery so I broke out some rubbing compound. Cleaned and painted the tag holder and installed it also. I need to find the right rubber bumpers for it.

I need to replace a couple of lenses so I worked on the stash that I've been gathering over the years.

 

[khryslerkid]

Replacing a couple of lenses leads to a total refurbished taillight system.

Cleaned all of the lenses that I needed. Cleaned and painted the taillight housings with aluminum. Cleaned and polished the best bensils.

Replaced all of the sockets with aftermarket ones. Had to break off one of the fingers to fit the tab that's in the housing.

Wiring is pretty simple. Just match up the socket with the original for the correct bulb pin orientation and color of wire.

I'm thinking this harness has provisions for a trailer light package. Notice the female connectors inline for each wire. (Red arrows)

Another interesting find is that the lower light uses a double filament bulb but is wired for the parking light filament only.

So that gave me an idea...

This video, lights factory wired.


This video, adding a lead from the bottom light and plugging it into the trailer light connection.


Which one do you like better?

 

[prostockstan]

Replacing a couple of lenses leads to a total refurbished taillight system.

Cleaned all of the lenses that I needed. Cleaned and painted the taillight housings with aluminum. Cleaned and polished the best bensils.
View attachment 532485
View attachment 532486

Replaced all of the sockets with aftermarket ones. Had to break off one of the fingers to fit the tab that's in the housing.
View attachment 532489
View attachment 532491

Wiring is pretty simple. Just match up the socket with the original for the correct bulb pin orientation and color of wire.
View attachment 532499

I'm thinking this harness has provisions for a trailer light package. Notice the female connectors inline for each wire. (Red arrows)
View attachment 532502

Another interesting find is that the lower light uses a double filament bulb but is wired for the parking light filament only.
View attachment 532504
So that gave me an idea...

This video, lights factory wired.


This video, adding a lead from the bottom light and plugging it into the trailer light connection.


Which one do you like better?

I think the left ones look better and brighter in my opinion.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I prefer the factory wiring because brake light stays on with turn signal flashing.