kid65
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thanks again for all your help to get my ride to a beautiful spot will send picks when complete should be this summer.
Taking Up New Residence
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No problem kid!
I could have picked up a '65 Coronet at Carslile about 15 years ago. Guy wanted $2,600 for it. Had a 318 auto, needed paint but it was very solid. I took a walk to think about it, when I came back he had sold it. My how times have changed in such a short time.
Looking forward to seeing yours completed. Maybe meet at Carlisle this year.
kid65
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that's what mine had in it when I got it. it came from Nevada solid body all chrome good just needed all gone over almost done.
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Took advantage of the downtime and swapped out the oil pan that I had originally installed. I knew that after the new motor mounts settled that the center link was going to get closer and become an issue.
This was when I first installed the engine using a pan that I bought from 440 Source.
This is two years later. Getting too close for comfort.
Member @Dart Mike contacted me and was asking questions about what oil pan will work on these early B bodys. Well I had an idea but the pans that I had researched years ago were not available anymore. The one I had bought from 440 Source was the closest that I could find at the time and you can see how that was working out.
So Mike was doing some research on his own and was keeping in contact with me on his findings. My car is together and his wasn't so we were sending measurements back and forth and he happened to stumble onto a couple of reproduction 971 pans. I knew about these in the past and they were supposed to be a good fit. I couldn't verify this 100% plus they were not anywhere to be found when I did my build.
So low and behold we both ended up with one and I just installed mine with good results, thanks to Mike for getting the ball rolling
This is what I bought. A NOS Moroso 971 (no longer in production)
First thing was to drain the oil then remove the center link in order to remove the pan. Just remove the joints at the pitman arm and driver's side tie rod. Then swing the center link towards the front of the car and out of your way.
The bolts over the K frame are a little hard to get at but are doable with a 1/4 drive ratchet/socket and a boxed end wrench.
Remove the remaining bolts and drop her out.
This was when I first installed the engine using a pan that I bought from 440 Source.
This is two years later. Getting too close for comfort.
Member @Dart Mike contacted me and was asking questions about what oil pan will work on these early B bodys. Well I had an idea but the pans that I had researched years ago were not available anymore. The one I had bought from 440 Source was the closest that I could find at the time and you can see how that was working out.
So Mike was doing some research on his own and was keeping in contact with me on his findings. My car is together and his wasn't so we were sending measurements back and forth and he happened to stumble onto a couple of reproduction 971 pans. I knew about these in the past and they were supposed to be a good fit. I couldn't verify this 100% plus they were not anywhere to be found when I did my build.
So low and behold we both ended up with one and I just installed mine with good results, thanks to Mike for getting the ball rolling
This is what I bought. A NOS Moroso 971 (no longer in production)
First thing was to drain the oil then remove the center link in order to remove the pan. Just remove the joints at the pitman arm and driver's side tie rod. Then swing the center link towards the front of the car and out of your way.
The bolts over the K frame are a little hard to get at but are doable with a 1/4 drive ratchet/socket and a boxed end wrench.
Remove the remaining bolts and drop her out.
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Now to trial fit the new pan. Wouldn't you know it, she won't go on with the oil pickup that is on there. Both pans measure exactly 5" deep.
So a little marking and cutting on the baffle it finally goes on.
Before...
After...
K frame clearance looks good. (the small cutout in the frame was made for the other pan)
So a little sanding, etching primer and paint.
Next is scraping off the old gasket from the block and clean it free from oil. The two rear seal retaining bolt holes need to be filled with gasket maker. I didn't fill them level the last time and I had a small leak there anytime I would jack up the front of the car. Fill in the retainer and timing chain cover joints also.
Ordered a Superformance gasket from Mancini. Just a 1/8 bead of Permatex Gasket maker on the pan, lay the gasket on, tied a few of the front holes with thread to keep the gasket in place for installation. (Didn't take pics of this because time is of the essence when working with the sealer.)
So a little marking and cutting on the baffle it finally goes on.
Before...
After...
K frame clearance looks good. (the small cutout in the frame was made for the other pan)
So a little sanding, etching primer and paint.
Next is scraping off the old gasket from the block and clean it free from oil. The two rear seal retaining bolt holes need to be filled with gasket maker. I didn't fill them level the last time and I had a small leak there anytime I would jack up the front of the car. Fill in the retainer and timing chain cover joints also.
Ordered a Superformance gasket from Mancini. Just a 1/8 bead of Permatex Gasket maker on the pan, lay the gasket on, tied a few of the front holes with thread to keep the gasket in place for installation. (Didn't take pics of this because time is of the essence when working with the sealer.)
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Just snug the pan bolts ever so lightly, wait 12 hours and do the final torqueing using a 1/4" ratchet, one handed and just snug them.
Reinstall the center link and you're good to go. Don't forget to tighten the drain plug and add your oil!
I have 11/16" clearance on the center link to pan now
Reinstall the center link and you're good to go. Don't forget to tighten the drain plug and add your oil!
I have 11/16" clearance on the center link to pan now
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You do some purty work.Just snug the pan bolts ever so lightly, wait 12 hours and do the final torqueing using a 1/4" ratchet, one handed and just snug them.
View attachment 935649 View attachment 935650 View attachment 935651
Reinstall the center link and you're good to go. Don't forget to tighten the drain plug and add your oil!
I have 11/16" clearance on the center link to pan now
View attachment 935652
Excellent Tutorial Kid! I have been sweating out whether or not the pan I have on my 440 is going to work or not in my 65 Belvedere, which I understand is also a bit finicky with pan to centerlink clearance. Years back I bought the Moroso (971 imprinted) deep sump 8 quart pan, which I'm going to assume is the same as what you found except for the deeper sump capacity. I also relieved the K frame to provide a bit more clearance for the sump. I'm hoping to sleep better now that I think I'm in the clear. Hoping to Drop it in soon once spring really shows up. Am I correct that 62 thru 65's share this oil pan issue?You do some purty work.
I have always had 66 and up B Bodies.
Regards
Thunder
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From the couple that I've talked to it is an issue. Some went with the racing oil pans that have a low rear section. The pan that I had on there measured 2 5/8" tall where the center link passed under it. The 971 measures 2 1/8" in that area. That's a 1/2" difference.
There's several good threads on here as to what people have used, thing is a lot of those pans are hard to find. The 971 was used on 1973 to 1978 B bodies and you would think there would be plenty out there. Not the case.
Stop playing with that Chevy and get that Bell together!
Kid,... Your measurement is quite helpful. I will go out in the morning and see what mine is. I'll let you know.From the couple that I've talked to it is an issue. Some went with the racing oil pans that have a low rear section. The pan that I had on there measured 2 5/8" tall where the center link passed under it. The 971 measures 2 1/8" in that area. That's a 1/2" difference.
There's several good threads on here as to what people have used, thing is a lot of those pans are hard to find. The 971 was used on 1973 to 1978 B bodies and you would think there would be plenty out there. Not the case.
Stop playing with that Chevy and get that Bell together!
The Chevy has gotten all it's going to get. My Full attention is directed completely on The Belvedere! Gotta get past this Virus lock-down, makes getting stuff a pain!
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Thanks for the info KK. For comparison here are pictures of a stock 62-65 pan. Very shallow ends, not much room for a windage tray. Obviously this pan will accommodate a 3.75” stroke crank, does anybody know if there would be any interference with a longer stroke, say 3.9” or even 4.125” ?
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I'm not sure about those strokes. If you had a windage tray for those specs. and drop it in the pan it would show how much room is there. But would it be effective?
I pondered about using a windage tray and came to the conclusion that for mostly street driving and they say it's a five hp gain using one, is it worth the effort and expense? Would there be any other advantages that I'm missing?
Could start a thread
In comparison to KK's new Moroso 971 standard sump replacement oil pan, and the measurement of 2 1/8" down in the rear area,...my deep sump 8 quart 971 , from Moroso ,(from years ago) measures 1 3/4 at the very back, and 2", where it meets the sump. Since it is less than KK's pan, and, I am running a windage tray, I should theoretically have close to the same amount of center link clearance with my 65, that KK has with the 62.I'm not sure about those strokes. If you had a windage tray for those specs. and drop it in the pan it would show how much room is there. But would it be effective?
I pondered about using a windage tray and came to the conclusion that for mostly street driving and they say it's a five hp gain using one, is it worth the effort and expense? Would there be any other advantages that I'm missing?
Could start a thread
Thanks to KKID for his (as always) very helpful information!
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Yep, there is no room for a windage tray with these stock pans, I tried it once years ago. I was just pondering if there would be any interference with a stroker crank with these pans. I would doubt any problems with a 3.9” crank, only talking an extra .075. 4.125” stroke? Maybe?
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Replaced the leaking throttle seal today.
Now the car sat on all fours for two or three months without one drop of any fluid leaking. Replacing the old oil pan with the new one I found (post #664) I jack up the front, place stands, jack up the rear and place stands, the next day it starts leaking from the seal. It shouldn't be leaking even if it's from torque converter drain back.
First thing was researching what seal that I need. The newer trans with the throttle shaft and shifter shaft together have two seals, one for the throttle shaft and a larger seal for the shifter shaft. The pushbutton trans only has the throttle shaft and uses a cable for shifting. Looking up the seal for a pushbutton transmission will lead you nowhere. They show the newer trans set-up and state the throttle shaft seal is for 1960 on up. Not really sure if this is reliable information I contacted @dvw.
Good Guy Alert! He confirmed that it was the same seal used on the newer trans throttle shaft and was so gracious to even send me one! Thanks again Doug!
So I removed the rod from the carbs to the leaver, loosened the bolt on the leaver and had to wiggle it and gently pry up using a screwdriver. (No before pics)
Then I washed the area good with parts cleaner. Polished the shaft with 800 grit emory, then 1200 grit before removing the old seal. (Keeps any dirt from getting in there if the seal would be out)
It's a soft seal without a hard outer ring so just use a pick to remove it. You'll loose a little fluid when it pops out so have the new one ready to go back in or a pan to catch what comes out. You'll have time. I'm not sure if the original factory seal used would have had a hard outer ring or not?
The one on the left is the new one and you can see the ID is a little smaller. Old seal on the right is some what dried out with micro cracks.
Replace the new one with your fingers, have it lubed up, feel for the lip to make sure it doesn't flip inside out on you. Before you push it all the way in you can turn it and look at it. Once seated look and feel for the lip again. (Sorry accidentally deleted the pic of it installed showing the lip the way it should look)
I polished the washer where it sits against the seal.
Using a screwdriver in the gap, open the leaver's clamp a little to make installation easier.
Leaver installed. Have the bolt finger tight so it holds the square nut in place then tighten the bolt.
I did this one handed because the header is in the way to get both hands in there. It's doable and dropping the pan isn't necessary with this seal.
Now the car sat on all fours for two or three months without one drop of any fluid leaking. Replacing the old oil pan with the new one I found (post #664) I jack up the front, place stands, jack up the rear and place stands, the next day it starts leaking from the seal. It shouldn't be leaking even if it's from torque converter drain back.
First thing was researching what seal that I need. The newer trans with the throttle shaft and shifter shaft together have two seals, one for the throttle shaft and a larger seal for the shifter shaft. The pushbutton trans only has the throttle shaft and uses a cable for shifting. Looking up the seal for a pushbutton transmission will lead you nowhere. They show the newer trans set-up and state the throttle shaft seal is for 1960 on up. Not really sure if this is reliable information I contacted @dvw.
Good Guy Alert! He confirmed that it was the same seal used on the newer trans throttle shaft and was so gracious to even send me one! Thanks again Doug!
So I removed the rod from the carbs to the leaver, loosened the bolt on the leaver and had to wiggle it and gently pry up using a screwdriver. (No before pics)
Then I washed the area good with parts cleaner. Polished the shaft with 800 grit emory, then 1200 grit before removing the old seal. (Keeps any dirt from getting in there if the seal would be out)
It's a soft seal without a hard outer ring so just use a pick to remove it. You'll loose a little fluid when it pops out so have the new one ready to go back in or a pan to catch what comes out. You'll have time. I'm not sure if the original factory seal used would have had a hard outer ring or not?
The one on the left is the new one and you can see the ID is a little smaller. Old seal on the right is some what dried out with micro cracks.
Replace the new one with your fingers, have it lubed up, feel for the lip to make sure it doesn't flip inside out on you. Before you push it all the way in you can turn it and look at it. Once seated look and feel for the lip again. (Sorry accidentally deleted the pic of it installed showing the lip the way it should look)
I polished the washer where it sits against the seal.
Using a screwdriver in the gap, open the leaver's clamp a little to make installation easier.
Leaver installed. Have the bolt finger tight so it holds the square nut in place then tighten the bolt.
I did this one handed because the header is in the way to get both hands in there. It's doable and dropping the pan isn't necessary with this seal.
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All dry so far!
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Missed your post somehow Matthon. I ran across that NAPA number once before and couldn't confirm if it was the right seal or not. Now we know. I'll have to get a couple to have on hand. I tried to cross that number at the parts house that I work for and had no luck. At least we know it's the same seal as the newer transmission's inner/smaller seal that they use. Thanks Ma for not changing it.
Checked out your build thread from page 1 to now, well done! It's not only about you, it's about representing the car and giving the people who follow a plate full of very useful information. I have like your car from the day I got here, but now, I can see where it came from, again well done and Thanks!!
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